djriv11

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Yep agreed. But quickly diminishing and further drives required lol

I will add anyone else with similar concerns about the price hike and forced onstar subscription - this particular dealer told me the only MY2022 2500s they had left in the pipeline to receive were the Pro trims (work trucks). Guessing similar for most dealerships. So, if you want to jump on one before getting hit with $4k extra for the same truck, start making calls now and be ready to move quick. Multiple dealers also told me they wouldn’t even take deposits to hold trucks once they were on the lot.

Due to the approx. $4k increase And my order still not being accepted I started calling on any remaining ‘22s I thought I might be happy with. As expected every single one was already sold. But one nice saleswoman called me back to let me know they had just received one in that the guy who ordered it had to back out of. 9 hours round trip driving later, and I’ve got it home. My order was for a gasser AT4 crew in forest metallic. Ended up buying a white SLT w/ premium and X31 packages. Had a long drive to get familiar with it. Initial impression is very impressed with new 6.6. Coming from a 6.2L in a 1500. Have owned multiple 6.0s and Duramax’s in past. Impressed with overall quality as well, except for some light bedliner overspray on the new paint just below bedrails

Just fyi I know of two people who have used family discounts just in the last few months; one being a GMC half ton and the other a crossover. Neither with any issue of dealers not accepting. Maybe it’s a regional thing, but glad you found one that does.

@nards444 @michael henney wow I have never heard of dealers not accepting employee family discounts, that seems pretty sketchy. I didnt even know they could chose to opt-out of this discount. I haven't heard anything from my dealer but did see the '23s are finally showing up on the website, so I redid the build & price to see if anything changed. I noticed the price hike as well as the $1500 OnStar upcharge, where you can't unselect it to remove the $1500 cost. Seems like total garbage. In many years and many GM vehicles, I've never once used OnStar so definitely frustrated I now have to pay an excessive amount for it. Assuming I will also have no price protection, the additional $4k is probably enough to make me seriously reconsider my purchase. I recently went through a similar situation for a new Polaris SxS, and my dealer honored my original ordered pricing even though 3 price hikes went into place before I took delivery.

Wow 11 months and order not accepted yet? That is crazy, but thinking it must be a dealer allocation issue?

wow 8-12 months?! Was yours a '22 order that was changed to a '23, or was yours a '23 all along?

Absolutely love this color and have mine on order. Any chance you have some additional photos showing it in some different lighting situations? Just curious to see how the color comes through in various lighting scenarios. Also, did you smoke out those fender lights? Lastly, you mentioned you swapped the running boards. Are those in the picture the off-road high clearance factory steps? Thanks!

I wanted to start a thread and get a feel for order processing time on new MY2023 HD orders. I placed my MY2023 order 3 weeks ago for a Sierra 6.6L gas truck, however order is still stuck in event 1100 - dealer submitted but not accepted yet by GMC. Have any 2023 orders been officially accepted by GMC yet? If so, what was your timeframe? Dealer is still in the dark and the GMC.com chat only can confirm it hasn't been accepted. I think due to MY changeover and the late change to have these trucks be carryover from 2022, there is a lot of uncertainty still (even pricing). Appreciate any feedback other buyers can share!

Well, I spoke too soon. Poked my head under there after lunch today and spotted UCA rub marks on the one side I could see without laying down. I'll have to crank it to full lock and get all the way under there tonight to see how bad they're hitting...

I’ve referenced this thread a lot over the years for multiple trucks so thought I’d come back and give something back when I had the chance: I had Bilstein 5100s at highest setting and ReadyLift rear +1”s installed 2 years ago by GM dealer. Angles seem fine. There was a point early on where I thought I was feeling some new slight vibrations, but I tend to be overly paranoid about stuff and all has been totally good for about 20,000. Finally pulled the trigger this weekend on Duratrac 275/60R20s. They fill up the wheel wells a LITTLE more than I anticipated, but fortunately I like the bigger tire look over the lifted/high clearance look anyway. No signs at all of rubbing after first 100mi. I also have gatorbacks as you can see from the pic, and those eat up some space as well. We’ll see if it’s completely rub-free after a round of towing or two-tracking. If so, zip-ties should take care of it.

Interested to hear how your tires fit, as I just did the same level setup. Which rear blocks did you go with? With a lot of highway commuter miles, I haven't been in a hurry to size up, but will probably end up just going 275/60 or 285/55 when I do. I see you've got the Airaid MIT in your signature....any feedback on that? Worth it?

I asked a ton of questions on this forum so I figure I owe everyone a report-out.... I was very hesitant and pretty skeptical, but finally installed Billy 5100s all around on top setting in front along with the ReadyLift rear 2.25 blocks and had aligned. I immediately notice the difference visually from about 30 yards away and is exactly what I hoped for; looks good and noticeable increase in wheel well space. Fitting slightly bigger AT tires shouldnt be a problem. I measured but pretty roughly as I wasn't too concerned about the fractions. I got 2" min. up front and obviously a solid inch in back. 1" of rake left. Wouldn't of minded a little more rake either. You can also feel the height difference sitting in the truck. I've owned a couple 2500s, one of which was lifted on 35s so I'm used to the height difference. I do believe I'll need to adjust the headlights down just to be safe. Haven't been flashed yet but can tell they're pointing slightly higher. Driving is where this leveling setup really impressed me. My round trip commute is 80 miles and includes roads of every type from highway to gravel. I'd read all the reviews about a much firmer ride and feeling more of the small stuff in the road. You can feel a little more in the road, maybe, but not at all in a bad way. To me It really feels really planted and just right. Better grip, less bouncy at the same time. Body roll is almost eliminated around bends with speeds in the low-mid range, still noticeable at higher speeds but improved nonetheless. Obviously it doesn't nose dive quite as bad during the quicker stops either. My biggest fear was driveline caused vibrations due to the 3 degree rear block taper. Cross my fingers I haven't felt anything yet. Would still like to get on a much smoother highway to be absolutely sure though and stop worrying about it. I do tow a 3 place but very light snowmobile trailer at the max; hoping it doesn't squat much if it all.

Thank you. My thought is that if the driveline angles are right, you should either have vibration issues or not.. hopefully this isn't as much of a wear and tear issue like ball joints as I do rack up more than 20k a year.

Appreciate the feedback! That is reassuring. One thing ive been wondering, when re-torquing the U-bolts, did you do anything special to keep the leaf springs coming together evenly/properly? Possibly just torquing in a cross-pattern? I saw one guys video (albeit on a 'yota) where he pressed them together with a c-clamp, and would tighten the nuts a bit, retighten the c-clamp, and so on until fully torqued. Seemed unnecessary but got me thinking there is probably something to be said about ensuring the leafs are back in the proper position when the U-bolts are fully torqued.

Anyone out there can say in full confidence the tapered rear blocks haven't given them any driveline vibration issues?? Keep finding more and more people saying they've got vibration issues in the 60-80 MPH range, and no one to confirm they haven't. I've got the blocks ready to install, but all these claims have me paranoid!! Anyone have problem/vibration-free experience after the rear +1" block install??

Have you had any vibration issues due to the 3 degree taper on your rear readylift blocks?

Welp, went ahead and ordered the RL 2.25" blocks which arrived. Of course, even after I was reassured directly by RL these blocks were flat, they ARE tapered. Albeit small, the taper is 1/8th inch, from my understanding of pinion and driveline angles, this is a sure fire recipe for driveline vibration issues. I can't believe these companies manufacture parts without understanding the need for the driveline angles to cancel out to ensure rotations stay constant on each side of the drive shaft.

Thank you sir. I finally just got ahold of ReadyLift direct and the gentleman I spoke with told me they are NOT tapered. He seemed to be answering from his own personal knowledge/experience and reassured me they are flat. Still skeptical, I went in and downloaded the PDF installation documents, and sure enough, it specifically states and illustrates pointing the tapered-down side toward the front of the truck. Sigh. Let me know what you find later on when you have a chance, I really appreciate it!!

I was seconds away from pulling the trigger on the ReadyLift 2.25" blocks in conjunction with the Bilstein 5100s, but all of a sudden started coming across this issue with those rear blocks being tapered, and driveline vibration issues. ReadyLift website isn't clear whether they are tapered or not, and other retailers carrying the kit conflict; some say tapered and some say not tapered. Any chance you can confirm whether yours were? And have you had any vibration issues since installing? Thanks!