I just got done with installing my 6112's on my 2014 GMC Sierra Crew Cab. Reading some install guides on here really helped, along with printing some Chilton Repair guide torque specs that I got from my local library's online account. I think the hardest part was getting the new assembly into place, but using a pry bar to help lift the new unit up by the springs against the upper control arm, it eventually got into place and bolted on. I only lifted my truck 0.5" (1 rings space up from stock height). So far I've only driven around my neighborhood, about 1 mile. No problems at all so far. I hit a few bumps that would normally give me a bouncy rebound, and the recovery now is more plush and controlled. I'll have to spend some more time with it and give a follow up. But so far so good. Took just over 3 hours to complete the install too with 2 sets of hands working. Edit Updated +1 day: After driving for about 15 miles now, the comparison to stock is a huge improvement in ride over any condition. I am surprised that its not just how much better speed bumps feel (which is night and day different), its even freeway driving and smooth dips at 70mph where stock felt like you rebound too high/fast and loose adherence to the road, and now its more controlled. I can't wait see what the difference feels like on bumpy dirt roads where I would be tossed around before.
Just wanted to post that I received my Bilstein 6112's from Battle Born Offroad yesterday afternoon (drop shipped direct by UPS from Bilstein). i didn't have any tracking info, so it was a nice surprise. Ordered them around March 29th. I'm hoping to do the install this weekend if I can find the time and I'll post my impressions. They look crazy stout, can't wait to feel them in action!
I did a how-to on this last year when I replaced mine. You have to take the seats out, but that's really not the hard part. Perhaps it is conceivable to do without, but once you take all the seat trim apart to do the job, you would be FAR better off just taking the seats out. The hard part is getting the seat covers back on and clipped into the splines, but its really not an impossible task.
I broke the lower clip off on my driver seat while trying to diagnose my seat heaters (before I read the right way to remove that panel). I ended up trying to JB weld a piece of plastic in place to hold the panel in place, but that's didn't hold. What's been working for a while now was done using a hot glue gun (and a lot of it) to reinforce the area where I added the flat pieces of plastic that were about 1/4"x1.5". Just to clarify, the panel has 2 protruding plastic clips that are about 1" long and at a right angle to the panel's lower edge. These clips are supposed to hold the back panel firmly against part of the seat frame with tension from the bungie clips. The ends of these clips broke on my seat panel, so there was still material left for me to extend what was still there with my flat plastic I glued on. Also, check PIT543A for info on removing the panel correctly.
I experienced what you're describing following a spark plug and wire change on my prior truck that I did myself. It went as far as backfiring a couple times too. I couldn't believe that my new performance plug wires were bad, but I misted some water across them with a spray bottle and sure enough, saw sparks arcing. MSD sent me a replacement right away. Using a spray bottle is an easy way to check if that's happening though.
It is possible (but seems unlikely) that the seat has become unclipped from the seat frame. If I remember from when I fixed my seat heating pad, the leather upholstery clips are what holds the foam cushion to the frame. If the clips that run along that back line where it submerges under the seat back come undone, the seat cushion could feel loose. I think you could check it without having to remove the whole seat. If that's not the problem, removing the whole chair and then replacing your seat cushion foam as you were planning on would probably identify and remedy the issue. Doing the seat bottom is pretty easy (easier than doing the seat back), my how to I did for the seat heater might help a little.
Jullian is not my name replied to kennydor's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra TroubleshootingIsn't the powertrain warranty 5 years 60,000 miles? Sorry, checked my facts, GM changed the powertrain warranty for 2016 forward to be limited to 60k miles. You're right that the 2014 and 2015 have 100k coverage.
(Pictures) Driver's Seat with trim coming off Rear of Driver's Seat with back pannel removed Seat getting worked on Seat Bottom with foam exposed and upholster folded back out of the way and old heating pads removed. The splines fit into the channels in the foam and you can barely see the orange pinch clips. The 6 orange stripes are from the old adhesive. New seat back pad on left, old on right. This is the cooling layer facing up. New seat cushion pad on left, old on right. This is the heating pad layer facing up.
(Step 2 continue) You can now tilt the seat forward so it lifts out of the front slots, and then out of the truck, just be careful not to scratch your paint or interior with the seat rails. With the seat out, it was pretty straight forward what needed to be removed. I just started unclipping all the upholstery clips around the seat frame, unplugged the pigtails coming off the seat heater elements, and pulled the 2 haptic vibration motors out of the seat cushion. The real challenge came when rolling the upholstery up and off the seat back. The seat leather/vinyl material is held to the contours of the seat by these long blue plastic splines that are sewn into the seat material. These splines are clipped into the seat foam by orange pinch clips that are embedded and glued into the foam. There's probably about 10 on the seat back that have to be unclipped. I watched some YouTube videos on older trucks, and it was exactly the same process for mine. You just have to carefully use your hand or a pry tool to unclip the spline. I ended up breaking 2 of the clips, but when I was finished, it really made no difference to the appearance or feel of the seat. For the seat back, I only folded the leather up high enough to get the heating pad off. For the seat bottom, it was very easy to just remove the upholstery entirely. The easy part was replacing the heating pads themselves. The old ones came off with no problem, there is some adhesive that is used to hold them in place, but it won’t rip any of the foam when you remove the old pads. The pads have a connection to the cooling blower vents integrated into them, and removing the old connection took some force and prying, but they eventually came off. The new pads come with the adhesive backing covered by some wax paper. So now everything just goes back on in reverse. Again, dealing with upholstery splines and trying to pop them into their clips in the foam was the biggest pain, but nothing too complicated. Everything else was easy from there on. The clips that hold the upholstery to the seat frame are rugged and easy to deal with. Also, I was a little worried about dealing with the air bag in the seat, but it was a non-event. You don't mess with it or any clips for it and hardly even see it. The good news is that my seat heaters are working great. It costs $177 shipped to get the 2 pads, and it really wasn’t too much work to get it done. If it wasn’t for the pinch clips and splines making things difficult, it would have been even easier. So just watch some leather seat or katzkin replacement videos, but again, overall it wasn’t a big deal to do. In all, the things I’d suggest needing to complete this are a multi-meter and back probe kit for diagnostic, a T50, T15, and Philips screwdriver, some blue Loctite, and a breaker bar helps a lot when loosening the seat bolts. Thanks to this forum for helping get this taken care of!
I finished replacing the seat heater elements on my driver seat over the weekend and wanted to post a bit of the process to replace them. It took me less than 3 hours, including a break for dinner. In my post under the topic Heated seats not working, page 14 I posted about my troubleshooting using PIT543A (Diagnostic Tips – Front Heated Seats). In brief, I went through the troubleshooting steps and identified the problem as both of my heating elements that were impeding with too much resistance to function. I have a 2014 Crew Cab SLT with Heated and Cooled seats and the safety seat vibrator. The part numbers I ordered were 23170194 and 23223775. They were perfect replacements, and I could also tell that there were some minor updates I could see from my originals. Hopefully GM has fixed the garbage heaters that were installed originally and this time they’ll last a lot longer. The heating pads have the cooling layer built-in to allow the seat venting to blow through the seat. The heating element is covered by a felt material that sits right against the leather. Under that is the layer for the ventilation material, which feels a lot like bubble wrap and allows the air to flow out through nickel sized holes spaced around the heating pad layer. So contrary to some reports from dealers trying to explain poor performance, the heating element is directly against the leather… the venting layer is thus under the heating layer. On to the actual work. The first step to the repair was removing the seat. Take the headrest off, it'll be easier to if you just get it out of the way right away. Removing the rigid seat back is easy, and you can follow PI1091 for more info on that. There are only 2 T50 bolts holding the seat in place. Remove the plastic trim covering the seat tracks, and move the seat forward enough to get access to the bolts at the rear of the tracks. With the trim removed, you can break the bolts loose and remove them. I read this next tip online, but disconnect the negative battery lead before removing the big yellow and grey wire connector that you can now see with the trim removed. That way you avoid potentially, yet unlikely, causing an air bag light to come on in your dash that your dealer would have to reset. Slide the red safety tab back on the connector, then rotate the grey latch to disengage the connector. This is the only connector going between the seat itself and the vehicle body. At this point I took off all the seat trim I could get to. The trim piece with the power seat controls has a hidden philips screw that is on the lower front of the seat that you have to get to from behind the trim. Otherwise, all the other trim has visible screws. Next, remove the seat belt anchor (another T50 bolt). You'll have to take off another piece of seat trim covering the pretensioner assembly, and disconnect a wire that runs to the seat belt pretensioner trigger. The pretensioner wire comes off by first prying up on the red safety tab, and then it just lifts straight off.
Thanks to the info on PIT5434A (Diagnostic Tips - Front Heated Seats), I was able to determine that both of my driver seat elements are bad. Using a heated seats wiring diagram, I found that there are 4 wires attached to each Seat Heating Control Module (which is part of each of the blower assemblies). I started with the driver back element. There's a Black, Brown, Red/Green, and Green/Blue. Black is the ground, Brown is the controlled 12V power that switches on to power the element, Red/Green is the B+ (12V power source going to the blower assembly), and Green/Blue is the data line that goes from the seat control module to the heated seat control module. Start off by removing the hard plastic back panel from the seat. You remove the bungie clips from the bottom, then carefully lift the bottom of the panel high enough to disengage the lower retainers from the seat frame. Then the tilt the panel to one side, then the other, to disengage the upper retainers. (note that I followed a bulletin PI1091 where it shows how to do this). Once the panel is out of the way, the seat back blower is easily accessible. There's only the 1 plug with 4 wires going to it. In order to check the resistance on the seat element, I would HIGHLY recomend picking up a back probe kit. I tried improvising and it never worked well. So, checking resistance on my multimeter, I could see that this element was at 31 ohms instead of the 7 or so it should have been. I was also worried that the brown power wire wasn't ever being switched on (I had a suspicion my seat control module was bad). So I tried checking that on my multimeter, but that did not work. As PIT5434A says, the voltage keeps switching between on and off constantly, and suggests using a simple test lamp. So, doing that, I could instantly see that I was indeed getting power over the brown wire. And even selecting between high/med/low, I could see the switching on & off change rate with the test light. So, now I know that my heating elements are bad. The next part is going to be the hard part, removing the seat appolstery and replacing the heating elements. I have not seen ANY info online about doing this for the 2014 - 2018 trucks. If anyone out there has any info they could provide on the steps, it would be hugely appreciated. I'll probably order the parts soon, but might be a while before I dig into this project, but I'll update this post once I've done it.
You're not alone. I'm on one of the other threads about the broken seat heaters too. I'm very close to ordering new heating elements, but the seat removal looks fairly involved and I'm not even sure what the problem is yet. Very disappointing.
Thanks for all the updates calgator, those are helpful for me. I've got a feeling my seat control module might be the culprit since I also have a problem with the power adjustable pedals. I'm going to check my wiring and see if I can check the heating element before I decide to start ordering parts.
Calgator, are you positive about the heating being done using the peltier? If so, why is there a heating element in the seats (part 23223775 is for driver Seat Back Heater w/ Ventilated seats). If you're speaking from personal experience and are sure, that would be helpful, but if you are not positive (and I have my doubts since I have this seat) then I think you may be misleading others. I'm preparing to replace my elements, and would rather have reliable info. I have a 2014, and I am about 100% sure the heating is done using heating elements that can be selected for the seat bottom or back and can also say I do not hear a peep from the seat ventilation system when in heat mode.
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