A few months ago I replaced my fuel pump with a new AC Delco fuel pump in my 2005 Silverado 5.3. I replaced the fuel pump because I was having the symptom of turning the key and the engine not starting on the first try. I had to "prime" the system by turning the key a few times then the engine would start like "normal". After replacing the fuel pump, the engine now starts on the first crank but I am getting a hesitation on only the first start up after the engine has been sitting overnight. If i were to shut the engine off immediately after the first start, I could crank the engine over again and it would start with no hesitation. I connected a mechanical fuel gauge to the port on the passenger side of the engine and here are the results: - Key on engine off 64 PSI then slowly drops. - Engine on at idle steady 64 PSI - Engine off right after idle drops to 58 PSI -Engine off key off for after 2 hours drops to 30 PSI - Engine off key off overnight 18 PSI The MAF and Throttle Body has been cleaned with CRC cleaner. Last night i went trough and sprayed carb cleaner on the vacuum hoses I could see and I did not get a fluctuation in idle, so i don't think I have any vacuum leaks. Since my truck is an 05, I don't believe it has a fuel pressure regulator or an idle air control valve. The coolant temp sensor in the driver side of the block has been replaced too, I need to OHM that out to verify it is working correctly. My question is: A) What else do I need to be looking for that will cause the hesitation only on the first start up? Is there a way to test the MAF or throttle body with a multimeter? B) is the fuel pressure supposed to bleed off like that, or is it supposed to hold the higher pressure all of the time? Or am I worrying about nothing with the fuel pressure bleeding off?
Well I went through the process of replacing the oil pump with a melling M295HV pump. Now this is what I’m getting with a mechanical oil pump connected to a port just above the oil filter......After melling M295HV install if you watch the video. The gauge needle flutter and fluctuates rapidly at idle and at higher rpms. Crank case is full with 6 quarts of oil. New wix oil filter. Engine was primed before starting by holding the gas pedal down and cranking engine 5–10 seconds at a time until I saw oil pressure at the mechanical gauge. new oil pump, new pickup tube and o ring. New timing chain. i am puzzled. I don’t think this is normal?
I have been concerened with the oil pressure reading on the dash gauge since about a few weeks ago. Short story is, i was driving on the highway, noticed a shuttering sound then a tick and tapping sound coming from the engine. I pulled over, the engine was full of oil but i noticed the oil gauge on the dash was reading low. Normally it reads 40+ all of the time. It was lower than 40 almost to 20 PSI. I connected a mechanical oil gauge to the engine and here are the results: At cold start the mechanical gauge reads 44-45 PSI then after about 1:30 goes down to 41 PSI at idle. Here is a video of cold start to idle: https://youtu.be/VeBDv-LvV28 After the engine is up to operating temp and has been running for 15-20 minutes, the mechanical gauge reads 28 PSI and the gauge on the instrument panel reads in between 20-25 PSI at idle. Here is a video of the engine warmed up and running for about 15-20 mins https://youtu.be/PVsrAZWBZNM Then I turned on the Air Conditioner. When the compressor came on the mechanical gauge started fluctuating as well as the instrument panel gauge. The panel gauge read a little below 20 and the mechanical gauge fluctuated between 25-28 PSI. When i turned the AC off, the mechanical gauge did not fluctuate any longer. Here is a video after the AC was turned on: https://youtu.be/Hsy2moas7ko The parts that have been replaced so far are: New oil pick up tube New oil pick up tube 0-ring New oil pressure sensor Using Mobil-1 5W-30 and a Wix oil filter. By watching these videos, would you say i need a new oil pump?
Today I removed the oil pan on my 05 Silverado 5.3L to replace the oil pick up tube o-ring. When I was cleaning out the stock oil pan, I noticed a bunch of cracks in the inside of the pan. The cracks are located around there the 2 long 10MM bolts go up through the bottom of the pan. The cracks don’t appear to go all the way through but I can’t judge how deep the spider cracks really are. Attached are some pictures of the cracks. Is this strange for a stock OEM oil pan to have this? Or was it just part of the casting when they were made? I ordered another oil pan just incase. However I ordered a non OEM oil pan, I hope it fits and functions just as the stock one.
After looking at some you tube videos, I suspect the problem may potentially be the oil pick up tube o-ring? If air were getting past the deteriorated o-ring, then that might explain the unusual fluctuation on the oil pressure gauge. I hope something else is not damaged inside the engine with the few seconds that it was shuttering then tapping like it was out of oil. I have not heard the tick/tap/shutter again.
Today I was driving my 05 Silverado 5.3l and I was about to exit off the highway. My Wife and I heard this kind of shuttering sound coming from the engine. When I came up to the traffic light I could hear the engine ticking and tappping like it was low on oil. When I came to a complete stop the engine wanted to die. I had to put it in neutral and give it gas to keep it idling. I noticed the oil pressure guage was below 40 and fluctuating a lot which is not normal for this truck. I checked the oil level and it shows full of oil. I let it set for at least 30 mins and checked the oil level again and it said it was full again. I started it back up and the oil guage is still reading below 40 and fluctuating at idle a lot. At idle it usually runs above 40 and more when driving. i don’t see any leaks. Any suggestions on what to look for?? Or what to test?
I have a tonno pro folding vinyl tonneau cover on my 05 Silverado. I am looking for recommendations for a good spray to UV protect and clean the vinyl on the tonneau cover.. The tonneau cover came with some spray protectant that is made by the company that makes the tonneau cover, but apparently I can't buy it. I live in Oklahoma so the sun will beat it up pretty bad if i don't have a good protectant on it. Also it gets dusty very easily, so I will get cleaned fairly often. What brand of protectant do you use on your tonneau cover or vinyl on your boat to protect it...if boat products would work on automotive vinyl?
I can't decide if i want a Vibrant Ultra Quiet 1142 resonator or just the standard bottle style 1794 resonator. Do you remember which version of the resonator you had? The ultra quiet or standard version?
I know this is a strange topic but i am looking for something to quiet down my exhaust. I have 2 kids now that are young and yes....I am getting older and don't want something as loud. I don't want to spend a boat load of money on a new system. My goal is to add something like a resonator to my current system to quiet it down....not to the point where it sounds stock, but more of a refined when you get on the gas you know its there but just cruising or idling, a little quieter. My truck is an 05 Silverado Crew Cab with 5.3L, 4.10 rear end gears and a Gibson dual sport exhaust system. According to the specs on the muffler, it is around 24 inches long and 8 inches wide. It is a single 3 inch in and dual 2.5 inch out. The tips run out to the passenger side where the stock tailpipe would normally be. In the cab it is fairly noticeable during street driving, there is a small amount of drone in the cab due to the 4.10 gears at 2000-2100 RPM at 65-70 MPH, this is where i want to take the edge off at. My thought was is to maybe install something like a vibrant resonator in front of the muffler to try to take the edge off it a little. Also, I am toying around with removing the tail pipes and tips and dumping it...however i don't want to make it louder in the cab. Any thoughts on installing a resonator before the muffler on the setup i currently have? OR a quiet single in dual out muffler that can be dumped that sounds refined and not so quiet it sounds stock and NO drone (I know i'm asking for a lot) before or after the axle? When i had my F150 5.0L V8, i removed the front resonator before the stock muffler and it sounded great, just the right amount of sound with no drone....this is what I'm looking for in my Silverado.
Are AC Delco and Delphi the same? It is strange to me that there are so many different part numbers or variations of the fuel pumps that go in these trucks. Makes it difficult to make sure people order the correct part. Also, there seems to be a price difference between them. i have the rpo code of EVA. I want to get a reliable part. Don’t really want to replace it again. Probably going to do the tilt bed method.... it has almost a full tank of gas in it.
I am going to have to replace the fuel pump on my 2005 Silverado Crew Cab 5.3L short bed soon. I am looking for the part number and the brand but there are several different fuel pumps. I typed in my VIN at GM parts direct but it still gave me several different options. I know to not go with a cheap o fuel pump. So which should I go with out of these: AC Delco, Bosch or Delphi? Also, can someone point me in the right direction for the correct part number for the whole fuel pump assembly including the level sensor? Thanks
My buddy has a 2012 crew cab Silverado 2WD with the chrome clad 20 inch OEM rims. See pic attached. He wants to upgrade to an AT tire and is asking for my help. Currently he is running the stock 275/55/20 Goodyear tires. He wants something like a Nitto Terra Grappler G2 and probably keep the same rims. My question is, using these stock rims, would he be able to run a wider tire such as a 305/55/20? I think these stock 20’s are 8.5 wide? Would there be a major rub issue keeping it stock and going with the wider tire? He has been kicking around the idea of installing a level kit. If he installed a 2 inch level kit would the 305/55/20 still rub or rub less? Would a 305/55/20 look bad with a 2 inch level? Or do you think a taller tire would be needed to help fill the gap due to the level kit? Thank in advance.
Right now my truck currently has the stock Chevy Tahoe ppv (police) rims installed with 285/70/17 tires. I still have my stock aluminum/alloy 5 spoke 17 inch rims. I weighed both rims and did my best to figure the tire weight from the stock tire size vs the 285's I have. Rough estimate says I would save about 11 pounds per wheel if I were to swap from the steel ppv rims to the alloy rims while still using the 285's. My question is would it be worth it to swap from the steel to the alloy rims? Would a combined 44 pounds help the truck out any? I just feel like the truck is heavy now since I put a 4 inch lift, steel rims and the 285 nittos on.
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