Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About blackedout96

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

1,501 profile views
  1. "Check Trailer Wiring" Solution?

    Ordered a Pollak plug for my trailer, we'll see if that helps. The frustrating part for me is that I pull customers' trailers frequently and I can't go changing their plugs for the one time I tow them. I also have a 2014 F-150 for my shop truck and that operates all of them properly every time. I just have to use my personal truck when that's busy, which is most of the time. The problem is so widespread and well known that GM must simply have no interest in fixing it. If Ford's 7-ways are forgiving enough to work on all trailers without special provisions, then GM should seriously consider trying a new style plug.
  2. I've had this issue now with two new trucks. The first a 2014 Silverado 1500 and now my 2016 Sierra Denali. Any trailer I ever connected them to I constantly get the "trailer connected" message followed by "check trailer wiring". I'd love to blame the problem on trailer wiring, but the same trailers function perfectly when connected to Ford trucks and older GM's. This isn't an intermittent, works on some trailers not on others thing. Neither truck has ever cosistently operated the brakes on any trailer properly. I've never seen a recall or GM acknowledgement of the issue, just wondering if anyone has ever found any solution.
  3. Anyone know when the '16 Silverado special editions will be available to order?
  4. ahh yes, the tax savings. I'm in Michigan, one of the last states to tax only on trade difference... I forgot about that. Yes, that is sometimes more advantageous in a tax on trade difference state. As for the dealership beating around the bush... if you have your GMS authorization code, just ask them to see the invoice. As an employee purchaser, they have to show it to you... at least as long as I was there we were required to by gm. It will show 6 or 7 different amounts in the lower right hand corner. There will be a "310" amount, that is dealer net cost, then there will be advertising cost, destination charge and then GMS price, supplier price, invoice and then msrp. Couldn't be any more cut and dry then it is selling to a gm employee or supplier. If I still had my dealerworld login I could give you your total price in about 2 minutes.
  5. You mentioned "GMS" in your original post. That is gm employee price, well into holdback(below dealer invoice) and per gm franchise regulations is non-negotiable. As a GMS buyer they also can not "hide" any rebates from you. The value they give you for your trade is your only negotiating point and it is different from what other buyers see for the same vehicle because they can not inflate it. 95% of buyers never see the "acv" or actual cash value the dealership puts in it. GMS buyers do because when you present them with your GMS code they are bound the GMS price assigned to the vehicle and printed on the invoice from the factory. They can not mark it up or discount it, therefore they have no mark-up to eat into and show you a higher value for your trade. My $.02... Sell your vehicle on your own... Spend a day detailing it, take tons of good pictures and post it online for a fair price. I buy a new truck every 3 years and sell the old one privately. I always list at a fair price and they're always gone within 2 weeks. I was a gm dealership salesman for 10 years and grew accustomed to my GMS discount. I am no longer a salesman and I sure do miss the privilege of being entitled to a heavily discounted and set price that I didn't have to bs with anyone to get. These days I follow the same advice I always gave customers when I was selling. Locate the vehicle you want to buy and make an "I will buy it today for $xx, xxx offer". Knowing you're a serious buyer, ready to buy "right now" and they don't have to spend much time on your deal, they will jump at the offer if it's doable. A few things that get you nowhere... "What's your bottom dollar?"... this is the most amateur of all negotiating tactics and it doesn't work. If you ask that and pay the amount they respond with(after chuckling behind your back with their manager), you paid too much. "I'm a cash buyer"... do NOT use this! Dealerships do not want cash deals anymore, you WILL get a better deal if they think you're financing. I purposely pushed more than a few cash buyers out the door to avoid the backlash from management if their deals had gone through. Cash deals count AGAINST the management bonuses they take their disappointment out on the salespeople. It's not worth it to the salesperson for the $40 commission they'll end up with(yes that's an accurate, after tax commission for a vehicle sold at or near invoice). I've really gotten off topic with this and apologize for the long post. Enjoy your new truck, I love my '14 and can't wait to start looking for my '17.

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.