Razorback7

I agree. My wife's BMW X7 has them on all the time at a nice low setting and it's a great look and also functional if you drop something.

It appears they are on any time the ignition is on. This solution would keep the footwell lights on all the time. If you just want them on when the doors are open, the post about using the lighted door sills would be an option.

For those with a center console, how about the LED light in the storage? It's on all the time best I can tell.

So the illuminated door sills for the refreshed trucks use "cavity #1" on the X1 BCM connector to power the door sills. Would that work for footwell lighting as well? See pages 17-18. 2022-sill plate.pdf

What makes the AutoStopStart eliminator the better product? Honest question.

I have a 2023 Denali with the LZ0 Duramax diesel. According to https://www.smartstopstart.com/chevy-buick-cadillac-gmc-products.html, their stop/start eliminator now support the refreshed trucks, including the diesel. Any experience with SmartStopStart? Any side effects? It says it is a 3 minute install, which I prefer to disassembling the dash with Autostop eliminator.

For what its worth, I was in the same dilemma as you on my 2023 Denali order I ended up choosing the Technology Package + power steps instead of the Reserve package. I didn't want the sunroof and I didn't want the 22" wheels. The 20's seem more practical to me. My gut also said they would ride better (many years driving BMW cars.) I just picked up the truck and am very pleased with the ride and the lack of road noise with the AT tires. They are Goodyear Wrangler. No idea how well they will wear, but they are quiet like a street tire. Looks are subjective and we can't answer that for you. But I would have no hesitation ordering the 20's again for real world use.

There are old pilot, bold pilots, but not very many old bold pilots. Same applies here.

Here at work we have a 2014 with 125,000 on it without any issues.

Thanks for the confirmation. I know I should have run an extra power for the 12v, but its just not that important to me. In fact, I had to look around to find something to plug into it for testing. I doubt I will ever have two 12v devices connected at the same time. I will post back when finished.

Installed my console yesterday. Everything went well. I don't have the three USB's up front working yet, but feel like I'm very close. I have successfully attached the USB cable from the HMI (behind the glove box) to the center console. On my 2015, I have the extra USB in the upper glove box. I disconnected it from the HMI (it's the USB with the green plug) and plugged in the new cable in its place. I used the cable recommended by TBarn (GM part 19303328.) You have to trim the connector on that cable quite a bit to make it fit in the HMI. If you are patient, it can be done and will still securely connect to the HMI. I then routed the cable to the center console. I ran into a problem trying to get power to pins 4 and 6 on the USB. My local dealership didn't have any connectors (SAIT-A03GF-M064) in tray 27. I rummaged around and found something very similar from an old PC power supply that I was going to try and use, but they weren't a secure fit - too loose. The way I installed the console was to remove the "new" console wiring harness, except for the wiring to the back cigarette lighter and the switch leg wiring for the light. I left that wiring in place, but cut out the remainder of the harness, leaving plenty of wire to splice. I then took the harness out of the "old" flip console. I spliced that old harness to the back cigarette lighter and the light circuit. Everything else on the back of the console is plug and play. I then used one of the cigarette plugs from the new harness to build a jumper for the second cigarette plug up front. Everything now works except for the power to the three USBs. I woke up this morning and realized I think I have what I need to finish this. Because I pulled out most of the new console harness, I'm left with the plug from the 2 USB/SD/stereo plug. That plug is identical to the plug that connects on the back of the 3 USBs. So my next step is to cut that plug with plenty of excess wire and splice pins 4 and 6 to power and ground. My theory is that I will have fully functioning USBs up front once I do this. (The only minor downside is losing the USB in the upper glove box.) I plan to give this a try one night this week. I'll report back.

Hey guys, For those of you with GMC's with black interiors, these are good part numbers. All parts came in great from gmpartsonline.net. The Trim Panel (22995098) came with the correct Grand Lace Wood Tone trim. Also the cup holder has the nice brushed aluminum on it to match the brushed aluminum on the truck:

Just ordered console parts for 2015 GMC SLE. Truck came with black leather and "Grand Lace Wood Tone" trim. This is the typical wood trim GMC puts on black interiors. I ordered the following parts: 23136506 - Console (http://www.gmpartsonline.net/part-number-search.html?searchText=23136506) 22817349 - Panel 22817347 - Panel 22995098 - Trim Panel with Grand Lace Wood Tone (http://www.gmpartsonline.net/part-number-search.html?searchText=22995098) 22776807 - Bracket 19303328 - Cable It looks like another console part number. Also I hadn't seen any documentation on the Grand Lace trim so hopefully this helps someone. It shipped same day from GM Parts Online. I'll follow up when the parts arrive to confirm these are the right part numbers.

The month and year of the build date is also on the driver's door pillar.