Jump to content

prox_denali

Member
  • Content Count

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

11 Good

About prox_denali

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Name
    Array
  • Gender
    Array
  • Drives
    Array

Recent Profile Visitors

1,819 profile views
  1. Ahh I see. I guess I gotta do what I gotta do and snip the wires. It'd certainly be nice to see someone who made these. I think there was an Alpine kit that had plug and play dash speakers but it has since been discontinued. It also costs a fortune. As far as Shift's situation goes, I guess it depends on what you've got in there now and if you can justify it enough to tear it all out and start over again. I'd probably be the last person to ask about the sound systems on these trucks but I'm also looking to do this myself. I just want to have all of my ducks in a row before I start tearing into a virgin sound system that I've never messed with before. Indeed though, I am certainly learning a lot!
  2. I'm still somewhat confused, would changing the dash speakers mess with the door chimes? - i.e change the volume of them or not be present at all? I assume the chimes sound from those? Or would they not change because the headunit isn't being changed?
  3. I thought that the factory harness for the dash speakers had to be cut for new ones? Do the audio frogs plug and play? Or is there an aftermarket harness out there somewhere that mates to the factory harness that plugs into the dash speaker? If so, I must’ve missed them!
  4. Holy cow that’s a mess. It’s been nothing but rain where I am. As far as I know SC and FL are the only states who haven’t gotten snow. Y’all stay safe out there! And x2 on what y’all’s systems look like in the cargo boxes. I’m surprised nobody has done one to accommodate for the trucks with them. Small loss I suppose but it would be neat to have the cargo space AND the sub. I wouldn’t be against buying another cargo box to cut it up and add a sub inside of it, honestly would be pretty cool.
  5. I like that sub box ya got there. A friend of mine makes sub boxes similar to those and they certainly are not cheap. At least in my eyes of what a sound system/sub setup costs. As far as costs is concerned, I think I'd be in the realm of about $1000 or so. Not necessarily trying to have the loudest sound system on the block by any means, just something that sounds good/better than the stock Bose system. Taking the JL stealthbox for the console into consideration though, I feel I'll probably be over that budget fairly quick. A newb thing I did was, went to my local best buy, listened to some of their speakers on display - i.e kickers, alpines, pioneers, etc. Low key, I was fairly impressed with the Kickers, especially for under $100.00 a pair. The alpines, what I had in the past, seemed to miss their mark BUT this is also on a display that have been powered up for God knows how long. I'm open to other brands though, like JL, Skar, Polk, and so on but I was really just window shopping. Thanks for all the feedback though, lets keep 'em coming!
  6. That's a neat setup, looks factory and clean. I really wish there was one made for the trucks that came factory with a underseat storage box. I feel if I weren't satisfied with an 8 in the center console, then removing it would be my only option.
  7. Thank you for your insight! I kinda figured that the dash speakers were gonna get in the way. From what I’ve seen, there isn’t any direct plug and play harness for them. That’s what I’m really going for but if there is no way around it then I guess I don’t have a choice if I do decide putting in a mild system. What speakers are you using? How did you mount them up?
  8. Hey everyone, I have literally been looking for weeks about upgrading my stock Bose system with something a little more 'upbeat' - pun intended. I've searched on here along with a few other forums and sites like Crutchfield, through Google, and even YouTube for what I'm looking for but to no avail. To start, while I feel I can understand and work on most aftermarket upgrades on our trucks, I am somewhat of a novice doing sound systems and a complete newbie to this generation system - the last system I did was on my 2001 Explorer like a decade ago and I loved it - Alpine Type S front speakers/Infinity Reference rear speakers, a single 10" kicker sub with some no name amp and an old double din Pioneer AVICD3 headunit. I'll be honest, I got lucky and everything sounded great BUT that was in a truck that also had a blown factory speaker before being replaced. It was an easy and clean install for me when I was 16 years old - since then I haven't touched another factory system. Where I get confused is all of the audio jargon that comes with searching for this stuff. Like differences between coaxial and component speakers, ohm and watt ratings, etc. I also ask myself 'how do I know what I'm putting in be better than what I've got now?' sort of thing. So I figured I would create a post and see what others are doing! What I want to do is replace the factory speakers and add a sub only. Some stipulations I have: 1. I do not want to cut any wire or modify anything (harnesses, drill holes, etc.) on the truck side, I want it to be completely 100% reversible and 100% plug and play. What I'd like to know are things like which speakers you went with/which ones you added or replaced, speaker mounting brackets (whether you had to modify them or not,) speaker/amp/sub wiring harnesses (whether you had to modify them or not,) amp(s) used, sub(s) used, wire used, line out converters used, sub boxes, sound deadening, how you routed your wiring, installation tips and tricks, what you would change etc. (It's been a while so I need all the help I can get!) 2. I would like to keep my factory headunit. (I know, kinda lame but there is nothing like the fit and finish of a nice factory touch screen IMO, just looks 'seamless' and clean to me) I also assume by keeping the factory headunit, it would keep me from having to modify to fit, having to worry about losing factory door chimes, having to mess with steering wheel controls, pulling the dash apart, etc. - so I am willing to lose that little bit of pep out of a good aftermarket speaker to keep the factory HU. Maybe one day I may upgrade to a 12" 'Tesla style' headunit or an IPad but I'd rather keep what I have for right now - just sticking with speakers, amp(s) and sub(s). Here is what I do know: 1. I've seen some products made by LLJ Customs that utilizes or bypasses the O.E Bose amp. It appears to be pretty top notch stuff. If you've used them or have used something similar, please elaborate on your experiences installing. From what I've seen, they added an additional amp using their custom harnesses to amplify an added sub while still using the O.E Bose amp to amplify the O.E Bose speakers and O.E Bose sub. Not against adding just a sub to the O.E speakers, but figured it may be worth my while to upgrade the door speakers too. In this case, I get confused and I'm not sure what to get when adding door speakers. I reached out to them with what I'm looking for but haven't received a response.... yet. If you visit their website: https://lljcustoms.com/store/ols/products/2014-2019-gm-bose-amp-t-harness/v/1419GMBOSE-BS-HRN12 2. I've seen the JL Stealthbox for the center console. For those who have it, how do you like it? I have an underseat storage box underneath my rear seats and ideally I'd like to keep it BUT I'm not opposed to either removing the storage box all together and replace it with a nice sub box that fits snug underneath the rear seats OR if someone has fabbed up a sub box that fits within the underseat storage box. I'd like to run a single sub, I'd be happy with an 8" or 10" sub but that's just preference. 3. From what I've read on here, the O.E Bose system itself puts out some weird ohm readings to the factory speakers and sub, which leads me to believe that it would be almost pointless to replace JUST the speakers and makes me assume I need an amp to power them. Now I could be wrong, so if you have replaced JUST the speakers please let me know your results, I'd like to know. Still in question: 1. Active Noise Cancellation - I'd assume that my truck is equipped because it has Bose but can trucks with Bose not have it? What in the world is it and why does it need to be bypassed? 2. Is there truly any way to get a plug and play system that isn't invasive in these trucks? Because I still have some doubts. I.E: mounting the speakers, speaker harnesses, bypassing or utilizing the factory amp/sub/speakers, etc. 3. Interaction with stock HU. Would it need to be removed for what I want to do? I assume no. I'm not afraid to remove it to do what I need to do if I have to but I cannot recall what you have to do to make the newly added speakers/sub to work? 4.. I feel I have enough wrench-turning knowhow to do this mild 'overhaul.' I just don't want to trick myself - or should I take it to my trusted local audio shop and let them deal with it? To me, the trucks with Bose, it seems like it throws a wrench in the equation that confuses me - also something I did not have to encounter over 10 years ago. I mean it's been a while and I think I could figure it out once everything was in front of me but I also don't want to dive straight in without a clear picture in my mind of how it needs to be done or get in-over my head. With all of that said and I know this is a long post but, I have no issues with the stock system. The stock Bose sounds okay but I'd like to hear what other people are running and feedback on what everyone has. From mild to wild, if you got it, please show it. Pictures and videos work best for me as I'm a visual learner. I also think it would be neat to have the moderators sticky this so that people can get ideas for their own trucks.
  9. Here ya go: https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/187083-largest-tire-size-on-35-rough-country-lift/?tab=comments#comment-2490814
  10. Orrrr you could do Whipple, heads/cam/exhaust and get best of both worlds haha! I wish e85 was more available near where I live. I just only run 93. It runs pretty good but e85 would be fun to try.
  11. Ohh my mistake. I mean given from the thread I linked above, I don't think it would be too far out of the realm to reach 500hp with the lt4 sc. He claims it made 483 but I didn't see anywhere in his thread about whether it was ported or not and what pulley he was running. Maybe on e85, ported and smaller pulley? Idk if you plan on running e85 or running lt4 hpfp/low side fp and injectors but I'd imagine your truck would want it. A cam paired with the supercharger should certainly get you there but I don't have the 5.3 either so I can only assume all of this.
  12. I don’t think they’d be defective as much as it’s just a used supercharger. EBay has their surprises though! Yeah cost might be a lot less than a BNIB aftermarket supercharger. But when you buy aftermarket new it comes warrantied, everything you need is already there and you won’t have to piece a kit together. With an LT4 sc, once you get all the parts you need to do the swap, you’re in it for a small fraction less than if you went with a new, aftermarket kit. This is besides the fact but still something to consider. Another thing to note is what aftermarket manufacturers do to enhance their designs from their competitors and O.E spec stuff (I.e how their designs dissipate heat/keeps temps down more, how much air they can move, how fast they spin, how much more power/tq they make etc.) as opposed to their competitors and stock designs. Whipple can also write the tune specific to your truck or give the option to tune it yourself and save a little money while the lt4 sc you’d have to find someone to tune your truck (or diy) and write a custom tune. I would highly doubt a stock lt4 map would work on the trucks. I don’t want to sound like I’m knocking on the guys with the LT4 sc setups because indeed they saved a little money and it’s unique. I can certainly respect that they found a source for everything and did all the work themselves to make it work but it appears you won't be doing a sc for $1200 given what is necessary to make it work. If an LT4 setup is the route you’re looking to go down, it can be done. Unfortunately it doesn't look to be like it’s a ‘bolt on the sc, tune and go’ sort of scenario, it looks like some parts were needed and the charger needed to be modified to fit but it’s been done according to this thread: https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/238756-so-you-want-to-put-a-lt4-supercharger-on-your-l83l86/ I’m no expert and do not have a twin screw setup, so guys with these setups can drop in and give more a more detailed answer but I figured I’d chime in to show my findings. It looks like a cool swap. I’m curious to see what it runs on e85.
  13. Back when I used to work in a shop, we did the RC 3.5" kits all the time. Warning: This is a long post but hopefully it will help answer some questions if you decide to read it in it's entirety. A few things I would like to bring up are: 1. Some of our beloved 1500's don't sit at the same height from factory. Some of them stood higher while others came up short. The difference can be very minor but it is present. On factory wheels (i.e the stock 17's) I know we were able to squeeze in a 35x12.50 or their metric counterparts with some trimming to the plastic and inner fender liner. Others iirc did not need to be trimmed at all (may not want to hold me to that.) Differences could lie from what size motor is in the truck (4.3, 5.3, 6.2), *whether it's 2wd/4wd, and what package the truck is (i.e Z71/Z92 as opposed to like a regular 4x4 or 2wd - and indeed GM did make Z71's in 2wd! - Rancho struts vs. AC Delco struts, w/ or w/out magneride etc.) Most of the time it's close enough that it generally won't make that much of a difference but sometimes it actually did. - One source I always recommended to customers was https://www.customwheeloffset.com/. For those who don't know, it's a giant gallery that users post lifted trucks to, that label their truck's size lift, tire size, wheel size, if wheel spacers were used and if it required trimming or not. 2. Tire companies get as close as possible to the said tire sizes that you are buying, but they're not all perfect to size. A 35x12.50 could be like a 34.8 or a 35.1, etc. The variable mainly comes down to the type of tire, tread depth, etc. Different tire companies use different molds to achieve a very close height/width with their branded designs also. Again, generally not something you necessarily need to worry about but it could make a difference if you're trying to stuff the biggest tire on this lift. Another thing I always told customers to do was to always go with a name-brand tire because it is less likely for you to receive a tire that is defective/out of round - bad tires can spur from a bad mold. I'm partial to Nitto/Toyo but I know there are other spectacular companies out there that make a quality tire for a good price. *3. If you opt for an aftermarket wheel in a 17 or an 18, most are only a 17x9 or an 18x9 (sometimes 17x10 or 18x10 depending on the style/brand of wheel.) Offset (the more negative - the more the wheel will stick out past the side of the fender/deeper lip on the wheel) is generally 0 (zero being flush with the fender) to -12mm (just past the edge of the fender) on these 'smaller' sized aftermarket wheels. Most of what we ran on smaller aftermarket wheels were -12mm. If you decide to go with a bigger wheel, this opens up a whole different world of wheels. 20x10 /22x10/24x10 etc. (around -12mm thru around -24mm offset). 20x12/22x12/24x12 etc. (around -44mm offset). 20x14/22x14/24x14 etc. (around -76mm offset). 22x16/24x16/26x16 etc. (around -100mm offset). The offset of a wheel can vary from wheel company to wheel company (why I say around a lot haha.) I.e a 20x12 could have a -44mm offset from one company while another wheel company could be like -42mm. On larger wheel/tire combos, we would generally stick to a 20x10 or 22x10 with a -24mm offset. (Some companies may label 22x9.5 or 22x11 but reflect a similar offset to what is said above.) ----------- Why is offset important? Well, the more negative the offset of the wheel is, the more the wheel is pushed out past the fender. So the wider the width of the wheel (more negative offset) the more likely you will rub with a bigger tire. *The same effect occurs when installing a wheel spacer.* To counteract this, you can simply go for a smaller diameter tire or skinnier tire, or go for a taller lift to keep from having to trim as much/not having to trim at all. The lower the offset of the wheel (i.e closer to 0 the wheel is) it can be likely that it will rub the front sway bars (dependent on the diameter/width tire you decide to run.) This is where a wheel spacer comes into play. I would recommend visiting the website link I posted above if you're not sure if the wheel/tire setup you're looking for will fit or not. *2019 and up 1500 owners, I would suggest contacting the wheel company you're choosing to buy or consult Custom Offsets to get the exact wheel you need/want. There are some changes (including larger brakes/brake calipers and hubs iirc) compared to the older trucks. *4. I don't want to sound like I'm bashing Rough Country for their products because I'm certainly not, I've sold plenty of their kits over the years (generally per the customer's request but I'll leave that for below.) Their team spends countless hours into creating the wide variety of products they manufacture. Hell, if you type in 'lift kits' on Google, they're the first website to pop up. I'm just giving my review on the thousands of these 3.5" kits that we've installed from them along with the various sizes they produce for our trucks and others 'import' or domestic. - First thing, they do a good job getting to the height desired, and makes the truck look good, it's still utilizable (take it to parking garages or in your garage, in and out of drive thru's, can tow without a massive drop hitch, can run a decent sized tire/wheel and can be driven every day without sacrificing a huge amount in gas mileage. Secondly, they are budget friendly and a great alternative to other, higher priced kits out there. Thirdly, they ship quickly and have friendly staff that generally respond to calls and emails fairly quickly. I was partial to calling them or using their online chat (actual staff representatives) if I had any questions about anything. Another thing I'd also like to say about them is that their instructions are easy to follow: pictures, 1.2.3.4 etc. and if you run into an issue you can use the online chat and you'd receive real time answers. - With that being said, the biggest issue with the 3.5" kits from Rough Country that we saw A LOT of *in particular the kits with the included 'forged upper control arms' were premature failure of the ball joint. When Rough Country first released this kit with the tubular style upper control arm, the ball joint was always the first point of failure and they never warrantied these if they extended past 1 year. They did, however, send us just the ball joints (worth maybe $50-$60) on those that did fail within a year but left the customer to pay for the labor of pressing the old ones out and the new ones in which was not cost effective. The customers who were unfortunate enough to receive this news were not very happy to say the least and were left fronting the bill for buying new upper control arms. Granted everyone drives different, but some of these trucks were strictly street driven and just did not hold up. The 2500HD/3500HD kits had the same problem as well. They then released the newer forged style upper control arm s in their kits, discontinuing their old style, and the problems continued up until I departed the shop in mid 2019. As of now, I'm unsure if they have changed their control arm design or what ball joints they use (doesn't appear so on their website) or not but I assume this was due to not including a taller steering knuckle to account for the upper/lower control arm angles the lift creates thus the release of the 3.5" knuckle kit was produced. - without upper control arms. We switched to this kit in particular and saw far less problems out of them. Moral of the story, if I were in the market for a 3.5" kit, I'd opt for the knuckle kit over the control arm kit but that's just me. - Other notes taken from installing these kits along with other kits from Rough Country: ----- From an aesthetic and durability standpoint - some of the welds (on crossmembers (taller kits)/strut spacers/rear leaf blocks) could be a little better. Also some of the powdercoating on some items would arrive with small chips exposing raw steel. Could be the cause of what is said below. ----- Receiving their kits in boxes that have been ripped/holes and literally falling apart. Could be from the transport/delivery company. The steering knuckle boxes were always in the worst condition. This, too may have changed since my departure from my former workplace. ----- We've received some kits with missing parts/hardware, could be from poor packaging or poor handling during transport. We received the kits and immediately stored them on shelves per vehicle and wouldn't know until we grabbed the kit to install on a truck. If we had something missing, each of their boxes do label the name of the person who packaged the kit together and when it was packaged so if there is something missing from yours, you can contact them. (Not sure if they still do this or not.) ----- They use plastic as opposed to an aluminum or steel for their CV axle spacers for their taller kits. This keeps costs down. ----- Steering knuckles are cast (like most kits on the market.) This also keeps costs down. ----- Like most companies would do, they offer a lifetime warranty on 'hard suspension components.' So say if a steering knuckle breaks in half, they cover the cost of the part. Didn't happen often, but iirc they do not cover the labor cost (don't hold me to that.) ----- I would personally suggest the knuckle kit and not the upper control arm kit. It rides good, especially paired with the lifted struts. If you're looking into the Vertex Coilover option, I do not have any input as we never sold any of their kits with them At the time when they came out we had no 'R&D' on them and nobody was willing to be the 'guinea pig.' We pushed them sometimes for people to try them out, but most decided to go with either the struts or strut spacers to save their money, or if they wanted to spend it to go with Fox, or even Kings. I'm sure that the Vertex coilovers do the job just fine though. For those reading about these 3.5" kits to buy and get info on them - before purchasing any kit, be sure to purchase the kit for the suspension you have - silver lower control arms means you have aluminum, if they're black with a weld around the sides of them means they are stamped steel and cast is black with no weld.) Iirc, if you see a wire/sensor coming from the top of the strut, then you have magneride (if you do you may need to look elsewhere for a kit that is specific to trucks equipped with magneride. Now, if you already own the 3.5" kit with upper control arms, they've lasted and have had good luck with them then it's good to see that there are people out there who got their monies worth. If you own a 3.5" kit and have experienced this problem before, or afraid that this might happen to you (I don't want this extremely long and drawn out post to scare you, again just going off of my experiences) then there are a few things that can be done. Some are more cost-effective than others but take it to what it's worth to you. 1. Buy or warranty (if applicable) the ball joints and press them in/out yourself/ have a shop do them for an expense. 2. Buy another set of upper control arms from Rough Country. 3. Buy a completely different brand control arm. I have Cognito. Not only are they the same brand as my lift but they're great because you can simply unbolt the old ball joints from the control arms /knuckles and bolt the new ones in. Kryptonite also uses this design. No having to use a press. These arms are also fully welded and are much stronger than the cast counterparts. You may also opt for a brand control arm who uses a uniball (drastic increase in range of motion - like if you were looking to go down a mid travel/long travel route.) 4. Keep the stock control arms, buy the knuckles from rough country and install the stock control arms thus turning your control arm kit to a knuckle kit. Overall and to reiterate, Rough Country is a decent brand. I am in no way affiliated with them, own any of their products or with any other company, this is all coming from the 10 years of installing Rough Country kits across multiple platforms. Sure they might have some cons and get a bad rep, but as much as Rough Country produces and at their price point, it is expected that there will be a flaw somewhere down the line with some of their products. At some point every company will mess up, even with top shelf brands. Everyone is human, mistakes are bound to happen somewhere down the line. And I mean there are a ton of different brands out there and all will yield a very similar effect - lifting your truck. It really depends on your budget, what you think looks good and what doesn't but just about every brand lift kit makes this size or a very similar size at all different price points. If you want to spare no expense on the same size lift from a different brand then by all means go for it, it's your truck and you want what's best for you and your truck! Some brands may offer kits with a full crossmember drop to keep your control arm, axle, and tie rod angles flat, others may offer brand name coilovers or struts (like Rough Country) some may offer kits for trucks equipped with magneride (unlike Rough Country who does not) and so on. If you're deadset on a RC 3.5" kit, then go right ahead, it will yield the same height and nobody can tell you what you can/can't buy or run because it's your truck! I think I've covered most of what I had to say on this topic You're a trooper if you've made it this far, so again, I apologize if it looks like I'm thread-hacking with this book of a post but please give it a read. I see this thread got a lot of views but not a lot of posts to receive answers on specific setups so that is why I wrote this all out. If you see something that is wrong, then please, by all means correct me so we can help out our community, drop your .02, ask more questions, post more pics, whatever ya gotta do. Hope this helps to someone! Cheers!
  14. Sharp truck dude! I am IN LOVE with those Kings. I bootlegged some on an explorer way back in the day and were awesome. I too am curious with what power you're making. We did a Whipple on a 2016 5.3 crew cab a few years ago and I don't think the guy that had the truck ever had it on the dyno. 11lbs sounds healthy! I've thought about dropping a pulley size on my procharger to get a little more boost but I'm at my fuel system's limits - mild cam/dod delete and long tubes do go a long way though! It is one thing I'd highly suggest to support your supercharger btw. Get rid of all the stock top end stuff and beg the wifey for a cam package, you won't regret it. Then while you're in there you go with lt4 HPFP and injectors ?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.