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nickstl77

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Everything posted by nickstl77

  1. nickstl77
    You only need 1 capacitor. It will go between the OEM power output (which is in your passenger side headlight) and the relay harness. The other side (driver side) headlight will be powered from the same source so no need for 2 capacitors. You have 2 igniters because each bulb needs an igniter.
  2. nickstl77
    Here's a pic of my output after the retro:
  3. nickstl77
    Yea me too, I was cringing all the way home last night. I'll get 'em fixed though.
  4. nickstl77
    Here's a pic showing how high they are right now.
  5. nickstl77
    Well in this case the headlights are never taken apart, so it shouldn't be a big deal to add some washers. I have the grill, bezel and headlight removal down to a 2 minute science. I'll play around with it tonight after work and post up some results.
  6. nickstl77
    Yes it moves down, but eventually won't go any lower. The adjuster keeps turning but projectors don't go lower. And at the lowest setting, it's still way too high.
  7. nickstl77
    Finished this retro today with the FXR projectors. It looks great! Problem now is even with he factory adjusters all the way down the lights are still aimed WAY high. Is this common? Anyone found a way to get this dialed in? I'm blinding people right now.
  8. nickstl77
    Can someone tell me a good place to use as a ground on the 2014 Silverado? I swear every bolt around the engine/bumper I check is shorted. I'm trying to install my TRS kit and they keep telling me my ground is bad. Where's a known good spot to ground the ballast?
  9. nickstl77
    I used HID Illusionz twice and both times had great results. This was 3 or 4 years ago, but I'd have to assume they're still doing quality work. http://www.hidillusionz.com/
  10. nickstl77
    The igniters are the chrome colored square boxes that connect to the ballasts in my picture.Also, it's a 50w kit, not a 35w. It's the Morimoto XB55 system. http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/ballasts/morimoto-xb55-d2s-hid-xenon-ballasts.html#.VSHoxPnF-g0
  11. nickstl77
    I actually did have a capacitor from TRS but for some reason left it out of the picture. Can someone explain how I can test my bulbs direct to the battery?
  12. nickstl77
    I put the halogens back in, they work fine. One thing about them though, when I first plugged them back in, they flased on for about 3 seconds then shut back off (while key was on). If I turned the truck off with the key and turned it back on, the halogen bulb stayed off. Waited a few minutes and turned on again, halogens worked fine. Drove for 30 minutes with 2 stops in the middle with the truck turned off. Halogens worked without any issue. I've pulled all the HID stuff back out for now because this truck is my DD and I can't have it with half ass headlights. I feel like I must have missed something. I do have 3 pieces of the kit that I didn't use and don't fully understand where they are even supposed to go. Pictures of them below. It's very confusing for me because I originally ordered the Silverado Spec kit from TRS, then had to change it because I was using the FX-R projectors rather than the OEM projectors. So I'm honestly not sure exactly what parts I'm supposed to be using at this point. The 3 parts in the second picture I DID NOT USE. Can someone explain to me if I was supposed to use them, and if so, where??
  13. nickstl77
    So I did this retro today in my 14' Silverado. Worked great, drove about 10 miles and the lights shut off. Got back home, fuse was blown. Checked all grounds, replaced fuse (25amp mini). Still no lights now, fuse isn't blowing again though. My halogen fogs still work, turn signals OK, high beams ok. Nothing when I turn the HID's on though. What else should I check??
  14. nickstl77
    Thanks man, I ordered the adapters today! ~Nick
  15. nickstl77
    Does anyone have the exact size/length of the screws needed to swap in the FX-R 3" lenses into the factory mount on the '14 Silverado?
  16. nickstl77
    Thanks a lot, Spyboy. Saved me a headache!
  17. nickstl77
    Hey guys, I want to do a retrofit into my 2014 Silverado LTZ. I know I still need to pick some projectors, but is this the correct stuff I need otherwise?
  18. nickstl77
    I had mine at a buddies shop today showing him the new truck and he heard the whine, said it is totally normal for the new 2014-2015 models. He said it definitely sounds like the 2nd fuel pump based on the location inside the engine bay. I'm going by later this week again I'll have him run the microphone around the engine and see if we can confirm.
  19. nickstl77
    Well I'm glad I'm not going crazy. Just bought a 2014 LTZ 4x4 with the 5.3 and the ticking is definitely louder than my old truck. But I did compare it to 3 others on the lot and they all sound exactly the same, so it must be "normal" for these engines. First thing I did when I left the dealer lot was go get the stock muffler removed and switched to a Magnaflow 22". But after they welded it up, you could barely even hear a difference. Apparently unless you rip out that ridiculous exhaust flapper valve and the resonator it does no good to change mufflers. Guess I'll go next week and have them tear all that crap out so my truck sounds like a TRUCK, and not some old lady's buick. What was Chevy thinking? I called the exhaust shop and none of the techs had dealt with many of these newer trucks yet and knew nothing about the exhaust flapper valve. I'm wondering if this is fairly normal since these trucks are newer or I should find a new exhaust shop.
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