Not sure if you're all commenting in regards to the 2021 model year or not, but the brochure definitely makes this difficult to follow. The way the brochure is written, it seems to say (when you first read it) that the two TB trims and the HC trim don't include the two speed transfer case, but that's because it's baked into the base trim. Really stupid way of writing up the various features for the packages and trims. It -appears- that the Max Tow package has no relationship to the availability of getting 4L.
I was reading through the brochure for the 2021 Silverado 1500 and saw that there are only a couple of models where you still get low-range four wheel drive. I've owned a number of different trucks over the years, and although it was used very infrequently, I used 4L on every single one of them for something... Am I going to miss it? For me, 4L was useful in my smaller trucks when I was driving off-road on "trails in the making". In the full-sized trucks, I've used it to get myself unstuck in very deep snow (sometimes, I have little choice but to drive INTO my driveway before I can clear when we get a lot of snow), moving the equipment trailer when it's heavily loaded (on the lawn), and sometimes for when I am doing something like putting tension on a tree / limb to either ensure it falls where I want or just to get it to break. I have zero interest in something like a Trail Boss model simply to get 4L. Does anyone have any real-world info on how their replacement 'technology' works compared a low-range transfer case?
Find the sticker on your truck that shows max payload. Subtract how much weight you're carrying of the trailer based on the WDH (if you can hook up the trailer and get actual axle weights for the truck with and without the trailer connected so you know exactly how much you're actually carrying). Subtract for each passenger and any other cargo directly in the truck. What's left is available for your golf cart...
Agree all around. I am planning to tackle this today... I just need to pick up some thread sealant for the screws for when they go back in, although I have to wonder why they used thread sealant at all - the waterproofing really should happen directly under the head of the screw and not along the threads. I may just put a touch of sealant or silicone there instead.
Thank you, @rav3. Helpful details in the video, especially the pieces about "don't damage your light"... lol I don't know that I agree with the specifics of their fix, but the main gist of it makes sense. I've ordered a gasket and will tackle it in the next couple of days. I do not believe the lens is broken, but I won't know for certain until I remove it from the truck (and plan to do that only once when I intend to replace the gasket).
2015 CCSB 4x4, 77,000 miles - bought it new in August of 2015. I haven't had many issues crop up with the truck until lately. I am getting some water leaking into the rear of the cab (drips down the rear window, no slider just single piece of glass) and I've also noticed condensation inside of the third brake light. If you have had a leak AND FIXED IT YOURSELF... How did you determine it was the brake light or did you just assume it was? What did you do to address the issue - replace the assembly or something else? What sort of cost is there for the light assembly or whatever parts you used? If you had the issue and PAID THE DEALER to fix it, how much of an expense might that end up running? I'm trying to decide if I should tackle it myself or hand over too much money to the stealership. Also, there's a very small chance that I may trade it towards a new one, but that's a big "it depends" sort of thing right now.
The previous interface supported the use of the touch-screen to activate apps and such. The new interface prohibits touch interactions and moves everything to voice activated. There genuinely is no reason to continue to support the touch screen interface for activation, input, or output since that all requires taking your eyes off of the road.
I believe across all GM models, messages are now accessible through Android Auto / Apple Car Play to read/hear incoming and respond.
Using the frame of the trailer for grounding purposes is not an issue as "it works" and is why the manufacturers all do it. There's really zero reason to home-run all of the grounds back to a central point since the metal of the trailer already does that. The REAL problem with trailer grounding is that the ground wire from the harness that attached to the trailer frame always seems to get damaged and then you're relying on grounding of the wiring through the hitch back to the two vehicle's frame. Focus your efforts on ensuring that the main ground to the frame stays protected and attached and you should have no issues. You can always coat the attachments with grease or even have the underside of the trailer sprayed with bedliner to protect everything (this is very commonly done by owners of snowmobile trailers).
Tongue weight counts against the vehicle's carrying capacity. As far as not believing you'll get anywhere near the GTWR, you might be surprised. A couple of bottles of propane and a variety of gear and you'll chew up that 1600lbs quicker than you realize. Keep in mind that many people will move cargo from the truck to the trailer because only a percentage of it ends up getting carried by the tow vehicle (instead of all of it).
My first few Android phones were Samsung. The only one that didn't die out on me within the first six months was the original Note. I had the Galaxy S, SIII, S4, Note, Note 4, Note 5, and I think at least one or two others. Every one of them, except the original Note) gave me various functional problems. I basically gave up on Android and used iPhones for a number of years. A couple of years ago, I switched back on a Google Plxel 2XL and have stayed with not only Android, but the Pixel phones, since. I use my current Pixel 3 XL hard... My job would normally have me on the road 2 nights per week, lots of time in airports, in the air, and plenty of use throughout the day on my phone. After a year and a half, by battery is finally starting to show signs of my charge going down more quickly and I have to plug it in during the day once to top it off so I make it through the day. I just switched back to my Pixel 2 XL so I can take the 3 XL in to have the battery replaced. I don't like FaceID tech and won't buy the 4 XL as a result. I might buy the 4a as it will suit my needs and I really don't want to pay the premium for the 5 series when it launches. No bloatware in the OS (much more responsive), updates are well ahead of what any carrier-branded phone offers, and Google will cover you for full OS upgrades and updates for like three years. I found them to be a much better overall value than any of the other brands.
You can tow whatever you want, regardless of what changes you make to the vehicle. At the end of it all, what matters is what you're officially rated for. No matter what you do to your vehicle, it will not change the official rating that it received from the factory. And, if you are in an accident, expect a smart lawyer on the other side to dig up details showing that you were towing beyond your rated capacity. Will anything happen? Overly, not likely. If something does happen, are you definitely "screwed"? Not necessarily. Plan for the worst, hope for the best.
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