chancyrudd

Sorry for typos. Doing this on my phone. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I would assume if the proper power is at the clock spring connector for the steering wheel control module then you would get your data output. When we first started doing these trucks back in 14 we were having to disconnect the green/blk wire at the clock spring connector and connect to the steering side of the wife and leave the other side disconnected. Now we just solder on and leave the wire connected to the bcm. If I remember right on those first few trucks that we were told to wire that way they lost the button illumination. Now the we just solder on and leave it connected to BCM the button illumination(which I assume is through data) still works. I said all that to say that I would think that your outputs would still work from the module but the buttons may not illuminate if that is done via data on same wire from BCM. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

It has been somewhat frustrating having to deal with this. When it's data it is very hard to troubleshoot. I basically have to call tech support and I have to verify connections. Once that is done it is basically "oh well guess there is a variation on that one we haven't seen, sorry." With resistance based I could always go to the clock spring and use a meter to find my wire or wires. Then use manual programming to get it working if the aswc or pac instructions weren't accurate. I think that the data based controls are why when you go from volume to track you have to wait a little bit before the oem radio will respond to the new input. Same thing happens when you change the radio. There is still the required pause between going from volume to track. I haven't seen this on anything other than the new GMs. I have had some customers say that the OEM unit didn't do that after we have installed an aftermarket but we have 2 newer GMs in the parking lot of the shop and can show that the OEM responds the same. I am going on 16 years of professional installation and each year things get tougher and we are losing more and more analog controls. Almost everything has gone data to data so when things dont work it is frustrating and you become a part swapper since trouble shooting is limited to checking power, ground, and continuity on data connections. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

On these trucks the maestro and ASWC-1 catch the signal at the clockspring connector. There are very few trucks on this platform that were built using resistance swc functions. So few that the swc module manufacturer (maestro) doesn't even make that specific firmware public. There is a module in the steering wheel for the controls that communicates to the bcm via LIN bus. The bcm then communicates to the radio on LAN or CAN bus. I don't remember which. PAC swc modules catch the signal after the BCM. So PAC is the only one that will always work even if it is a resistance based steering wheel since it is caught after the BCM. Just wanted to throw that out there. I have done a lot of these truck and have encountered both versions and have had some time on the phone with the various manufacturers. I definitely prefer to use a maestro if possible. These(newer GMs) are the only vehicles I have encountered that have data coming out of the steering wheel instead of straight resistance based controls. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Not at all. They just barely clear at full excursion. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Here are a few pics of the double 8" setup a posted a year or so ago. This is in my double cab. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Funny you say that. As I was finishing up a buddy was in the passenger seat and I said to him, "I wonder how long till I spill my coffee all over them!" Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk

I just moved my cup holder forward a click leaving a 2.5 gap between it and back of console. Cut a piece of 1/2 mdf to fit in between cup holder and console. I ordered this switch panel mount- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011KIYT70/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and these switches available in many colors and types- www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L26U1CI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I cut a hole in the mdf for the switch panel. Wrapped the mdf in black vinyl. Popped the switch panel in and then popped the switches into the panel. Wired them up and mounted to the console with 2 little metal L brackets from underneath. Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk

Hi folks. I wanted to share where I mounted my auxiliary switches in my truck. I wanted all of my switches especially my horn switch in an easy to access spot. I mounted them right near the center console arm rest and believe it turned out pretty well. Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk

N-fab Nerf Bars Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

The compustar ez-go hands free keyless entry can give you everything you need for the keyless portion minus needing a module to interface the door locks which is made by idatalink (my favorite) or various other immobilizer bypass solution companies. There are also several other companies making push-to-start kits that work pretty well. Some require you to physically disable the steering and shift locks but my preferred method of install is to unplug the ignition harness and install a shaved key turned to on and cover for ignition switch on. I will not modify the steering or shift locks for my customers due to liability. The ones I have installed have worked very well but between the two systems you would be looking at alot of money in parts and labor. I am not sure if the steering and shift locks are electronically or mechanically actuated on our trucks so that would affect my ability to do the install. Basically a PTS kit is a remote start that doesn't shut down until you push the button again. Doesn't really tell you if it's possible on our trucks but you can definitely do a retrofit on most vehicles out there.