Bigfutz

Blew 2 Transfer Cases, Shop Says Yoke is Bad I need help understanding what the transmission shop is telling me on my 2003 GMC Sierra Denali QS AWD. Long story short, blew out the rear drive seal and bearing on my transfer case. Replaced it DIY with a reman. 3 months later, it happened again. The transmission shop is saying the yoke is bad, causing it to walk out. $3300 to repair. I didn’t see anything abnormal with the yoke - i mean the bearings felt fine and there was no obvious damage. Aluminum drive shaft looks fine. Can someone explain if this sounds right and how to determine a bad yoke? I just don’t want to dump money into getting it repaired and then some other issue turns up to be the cause.

I believe that’s called the Work Truck or WT grille, if that helps.

My dome lights blink after reconnecting the battery. Cranking it fixed mine.

I’ve also seen full-time 4WD actuators, which seems to be basically a bolt of a certain length.

How does the thermal one work? Just runs the little motor until it hits something, stalls, overheats and turns itself off until it’s disengaged? Or is it some other electrical sorcery?

You got a real gem! Sweet ride.

I did it and it’s super easy once you get the right trick, I just can’t remember what the trick was. Sorry. The hardest part for me was getting to the 15mm nuts without removing the steering column. I found a tiny 3/8 clickless ratchet at Northern Tool that did the trick. Factory nuts have blue Loctite on them. Maybe an air ratchet could help - I didn’t use one. The job CAN be done without taking the brake lines off, but you’re going to feel like you’re about to break something bowing the master cylinder out of the way.

Did you check your blinker fluid level? Seriously, did this problem just develop? Fast blinker usually means bulb burnt out, and will also happen if you replace it with a LED bulb. Don’t know about the steady light - need to check and see what mine does.

Just to close the loop, I mixed some fresh orange Dexcool with pink pulled from the overflow tank in a stainless cup. 6 months later, no obvious reaction.

The other bolt... GENIUS!

Go to the GMT400 forum and find user PlayingWithTBI

Something about grounding a pin on the OBD connector, but I can’t find my bookmark.

Jack up the rear and turn the driveshaft to see if its your diff. Does it bog in reverse or rev freely?

If I’m understanding your description as popcorn being random and not evenly timed, I recently developed something similar on my 95 350 TBI. Mine seems to happen only when engine is warm, AC is on, and in Drive with the brakes on (at a traffic light for instance). It stumbles just briefly but randomly (like popcorn?). I was thinking something with the Idle Air Control (IAC)? Suggestions appreciated.