Jump to content

Charles_Colfax

Member
  • Content Count

    60
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Charles_Colfax

  1. Short and sweet. 06 Z71 Suburban 5.3, engine and drivetrain bone stock. 105k. Truck has been sitting for +/- 3 months. Battery was dead as a hammer. Charged it for almost 2-hrs on my full size Matco charger. Tried to start it and got this: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NuaHQo86zJqaWnbYCCgFboW9in2T9hm9/view?usp=drivesdk Thoughts? Sent from my HD1907 using Tapatalk
  2. Dang. I haven't touched my truck in weeks. But now may have to look in to this. It's the original alternator... From 2006, 14 years and 105,000 miles. Like you, I'll start with pulling the radio fuses first. I'll pull the battery and fully charge it overnight too. Sent from my HD1907 using Tapatalk
  3. I'd pull the alternator and have it tested. Sent from my HD1907 using Tapatalk
  4. Aftermarket here too. I've got all the adapters for steering wheel controls, factory Bose amp, and integrated satellite radio. I've got to make some time to pull the dash apart and go thru everything Sent from my HD1907 using Tapatalk
  5. Following. I'm chasing one on mine too. Have mine narrowed down to something in the radio wiring. These trucks are brutal with electrical gremlins. I've had bizarre ground issues... That's what I've ended up finding a couple times. Sent from my HD1907 using Tapatalk
  6. You could look at the Brian Tooley Racing Stage 1 truck cam. Should keep you close to stock but a little bump in power. I'd look in to upgrading the valve springs to the "beehives" and adding the trunion kit to the rockers if you are going to push any more RPM. I put the Stage 2 in my 5.3 -> 5.7 LS1 build and it's got a definite lope, but great bottom to mid range power. I pull a 6000# travel trailer and daily drive the truck. Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
  7. Bump? Have discovered that most of the OE body mounts are toast... Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
  8. Did you completely remove the key at the rearward end of the bar? Let's start there some can troubleshoot the problem. Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
  9. Looking to eek a tiny bit more vertical wheel well clearance on my truck. Already running indexed keys (cranked all the way DOWN) a 2" rear spacer and GM HD progressive rate rear coils that added +/- 1" (they were an unusual find, I can post the P/N if anyone is interested). All new CA's F+R, BJ's, TRE's, Track Bar, etc... I generally hate BL's. Only one I ever ran was a 1" on a YJ Wrangler on top of 3 1/2" springs... Question is: Do they even make a SMALL BL for our generation Suburban? I've seen 3" (not gonna happen). Everyone and their brother makes a 1" - 1 1/2" for the pickups, but I doubt the body mounts are the same... Anyone? Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
  10. Bump Same question. I have the engine hoist. And my 06 L59 iron block 5.3 is coming out very soon as part of a "Heartbeat" transplant. Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
  11. Anyone? And yes, I have searched. Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
  12. Well, this turned out to be a job where an adjustable wrench was the right tool. BC I wasn't about to go buy a 33mm box wrench. I cleaned up the threads a bit with a wire wheel on a drill. Ran the nut on with the adjustable to make sure it went on smoothly. Then put the lock washer on and worked the nut as tight as I could with a 2' pipe on the end of the wrench. Barely got a full thread out of the bottom of the nut. But it's tight. Hit it with a little red thread lock too. This front end rebuild has been a pain in the dick from the beginning. Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
  13. Well, this turned out to be a job where an adjustable wrench was the right tool. BC I wasn't about to go buy a 33mm box wrench. I cleaned up the threads a bit with a wire wheel on a drill. Ran the nut on with the adjustable to make sure it went on smoothly. Then put the lock washer on and worked the nut as tight as I could with a 2' pipe on the end of the wrench. Barely got a full thread out of the bottom of the nut. But it's tight. Hit it with a little red thread lock too. This front end rebuild has been a pain in the dick from the beginning. Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
  14. Fighting the same issue w/ my 06 Z71 Suburban 1500 Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
  15. I'll be running stock crank, stock rods, flat top pistons, Comp trunion upgrade, Blue LS6 springs, stock rockers, new 7.4" pushrods, new Delphi lifters, a cam in the 208-214/208-214, 108-114 LSA range, shorty headers, Flex Fuel injectors, and likely a TBSS intake. Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
  16. OK, any thought on getting the new arm back on? And un-fawking munched threads where the nut attaches to the shaft? Nut is off. Arm is off. New arm aligns with splines and slides on +/- .5 inches. Then STOPS. When I try to thread nut back on it binds after after a turn. Closer inspection revealed hammered , rounded threads Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
  17. Brian Tooley Racing Texas Speed and Performance RPM Speed (AKA WS6 Project) Scoggin-Dickey Performance Parts All are good choices Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
  18. OK, so I just picked up a 5.3 block that has been bored to 3.898 as the start of my 247/5.7 build for my Suburban Seller is throwing in a set of 862 heads. I also came across a set of 241 heads. I know everyone talks about the vaunted 243/799 heads, so what are your thoughts on using one of the other two sets? I believe the 241's use the same 2" intake valves as the 243's. The 241's combustion chambers are +/- 2cc larger while the intake runners and exhaust ports are slightly shorter/smaller. All of this "matters" the big time LSx guys building them for F-bodies and Vettes looking for HUGE how numbers and top end. I question how much they would make a difference that would make in my Suburban build. Keep in mind, the Burb is a DD and part time tow rig. Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
  19. Die fawker! Die!!! Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
  20. And no, the whole assembly is still attached, sorta. Steering box is loosened. Idler arm bracket is unbolted. But I had already replaced the inner and outer tie rods before I realized how much of a PITA this was gonna be. Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
  21. After bending a pickle fork and running to the parts store to buy another one, I got both of them to "pop". I got off work early today so I'm back at it. I assembled the idler arm bracket and arm outside of the truck and am about to put it back in. Pitman arm has been under tension with a puller and a bunch of PB Blaster since last night. Gonna loosen, then re tighten to see if it lets go. If not, I'm breaking out the cutoff wheel. Ain't nobody got time for that. Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.