zfasts03

I wonder if GM will include these exhaust weights on new production? or have an exhaust system redesign?

Wow! $400! I can fabricate some weights and mount them myself to the exhaust. I just need to figure out approximate weight and placement location. The wheels in my head are spinning and my eyes are open to start gathering material for the weights. I can use steel, aluminum, cast iron, etc. Create two halves that bold together. No clamp needed, engineered into the design.

How many u-bolts are required? If I pay out of pocket and do the work myself is their any diagram or instructions as the location of where the weights should be placed? or what $$$ is labor to have them installed? Looks like $300 in parts...my guess 1 hour labor?

Good to hear. When I get the airbag recall done I will have this done as well. Hopefully the dealer is cooperative and covers this under warranty. Maybe there will be service bulletin or something official from GM by the time I take mine in. So 4 things to make this the perfect vehicle. 1. exhaust dampers 2. disable AFM (may reflash ECU or use M5) 3. Install Michelin tires (I will wait to OEM Goodyears are worn out) 4. air bag computer reflash

Leslie, and others who regret buying their full size GM suv, I know this is a difficult question...What vehicle would you have purchased instead of the Yukon? Vehicles choices are limited that offer the size and capability of the Yukon/Tahoe/Suburban/etc.

What is upsetting is that most/all manufactures get a vehicle 98% right and there is always something that is wrong or the Achilles heel that does the vehicle in. Paint problems, transmission issues, rattles, etc. Manufacturers come so close with all their efforts, but yet something gets overlooked and the prototypes make it to production. The customer ends up paying the price. GM may pay the price as well if a large number of people are turned off by issues like this. Not sure how much GM cares. I am looking at replacing my 20 year old Dodge Ram soon and already thinking about other manufactures. But I know they have problems also, just different problems. When I worked as a Chrysler Technician. We were doing transmission rebuilds on a regular basis as the Chevy guys on the other side of the wall were replacing engines that cracked due to block castings that were too thin from Mexico. It's hard to win at the game of trouble free ownership. But there are certainly some vehicles that are better than others. Most of this booming and buffeting is a result of GM striving to reach government CAFE requirements. AFM to improve MPG. ANC to counteract sound from AFM. Thinner sheet metal for less weight, again for improving fuel economy. Thinner metal may be cause of booming/buffeting. A little more testing and engineering to work out the final bugs would make ownership more enjoyable and longer lasting.

So maybe if I turn off AFM and ANC it will sound as quiet/good as my 20 year old Dodge Ram.

I let a few lbs. of air out of the tires, seems to help some for the low speed booming. Running 33-34 psi now.

Was in my `16 Suburban for 1500 miles over the past 6 days. Definitely booming at low speeds and rough/bumps in the road. Everything else is good. Averaged 20-21 mpg overall. Very pleased with the vehicle. Do they all boom at low speed or just some people are more sensitive to this than others. No buffeting or vibrations. AFM is kind of a pain, but appreciate the better fuel economy. Loves the highway, especially 70-85 mph. Saw LOTS of these vehicles on the PA and Ohio turnpike.

I am experiencing low speed booming, bumps and rough road noise. Nothing at higher speeds where aerodynamics come into play. So buffeting from mirrors is not my issue. I am thinking it is the thin sheet metal as well. I think the (mounting location) trailing arms for the rear axle are introducing a movement or force into the chassis that is transmitted to the body to create the boom. Maybe trailing arm bushings are doing a poor job of energy absorbing, or the (design) angle they transmit the force to the frame is the source of sound???

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchResults?refurl=email&searchType=ID&targetCategory=R&searchCriteria.nhtsa_ids=16T016 http://bigstory.ap.org/article/c2651520e3be4b14907d04de6350adb3/giti-continental-recall-defective-tires-265000-vehicles Are these the tires that come with some of the vehicle. 20" and 22" Is this possibly part of the problem or the majority of the problem? Continental Tire is recalling certain Crosscontact LX20 tires made in May 2015 that were installed on more than General Motors trucks and sports utility vehicles. The roughly 14,500 tires involved in the recall have a problem that could cause excessive tread wear, vibration, noise, or bulging areas. They also will be replaced for free. For more information, call Continental at 888-799-2168.

My 2016 LS 4x4 with 900 miles acts just like yours Willyspu.

As Elripster mentioned he can make this stop by wedging pieces under the roof rack cross rails to prevent roof movement. Maybe adding a molding to the outside will reduce flex and eliminate the speaker/subwoofer effect. So, how would it be to attach to the outside of the roof either longitudinally (preferred for cosmetics and air flow) or maybe transversely a body side molding (w/symetrical profile).The 3M two way tape and the polyurethane molding is energy absorbing and the molding would add rigidity to the panel. It can also allow for protection of the roof panel from damage when carrying cargo on the roof. The molding could easily be body color and be a standard feature on new models and a add on by the dealer as per a TSB for those who complain about the booming/buffeting from the roof. I estimate the moldings would be 1" wide and be place longitudinally directly between the raised stamped areas of the roof. The moldings would need to be thick enough to sit about 3/16" proud of the stamped ridges. It would run a similar length as the roof side rails, maybe a little longer. If a longitudinal placement does not resolve the cabin noise then a transversely mounted configuration may need to be explored. I remember working as a Dodge Tech about 25 years ago and seeing the installing of moldings down the roof as part of a roof rack install on a Dodge Caravan.

So yesterday morning. Drove 8 miles, ~38 degrees outside, had thumping in rear from cold shocks that resonated some in cab. Later in the day... Drove it the rest of the day about 45 more miles, no thumping. NO ISSUES at all. Temps 50-60 degrees. Cold oil in shocks adds to the sound issue. If mine stays the way it currently is, I like the truck a lot. Crossing my fingers that with time and mileage it holds up like it should. I keep my cars for a long time and have expectations of minimal issues as it ages. I have a 20 year old Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 pickup that is still running strong. It is the rust that will send it to the junkyard.

At 850 miles and having more time behind the wheel. (Wife usually drives it.) I was thinking: How about rear shocks. Mine is booming some over bumps and road imperfections, seems to be originating from rear shocks then resonates through the cab. The problem acts like too much rear tire pressure. However, even running 2 under at 33 there is some booming. My `06 Honda Odyssey had rear shocks that would bang over bumps. Replaced the shocks to resolve the problem. Has anyone tried a better shock like a Bilstein (firm but amazing at energy absorbing) or a known softer shock in the rear. I have Bilstein for my `97 Dodge Ram. The best shocks I have owned. Just kinda feels/sounds truck like, and Active Fuel Management doesn't help. Basically what this platform is: The luxurious expectations and large cabin make for the complaints. But it is really a TRUCK. and people who buy big expensive SUV's are thinking luxury and prestige and forgotten it is based off of a TRUCK with spring rates, shocks, frame and tires to carry and haul lots of cargo. Anyone ever drive an empty cargo van. That is an example of extreme cabin noise. (again based on a truck platform)