slee3247

You caught me....

4/7 On 22" Factory Reproductions style 59. Powdercoated "melted bronze" from Prismatic Powders. Tires are 265/40r22 general g-max as-05....No rub whatsoever

Can't honestly remember if there is a hole or not. If not, not a big deal to drill a 3/8" hole for a bolt. ?

These are bolted to the frame. I tried the mcg bumpstops but they blew out within a week. Give these a shot! They're cheap enough. I believe I found them for sale on sdtrucksprings

These will fit without a notch if you don't want to install one! One less major modification means (hopefully) better resale if you decide to sell the truck off in a few years. Always planning ahead

For those of you with a 7" rear drop looking for a good alternative to bump stops, look at Timbren products. I chose their "Rubber Spring" A140-65. It is a 1.885" tall rubber bump stop that has a nominal weight capacity rating of 500 lbs, and has a bump load capacity of 900 pounds. Their maximum deflected height is 1.1875", which means your differential and brake line/hose brackets will never hit the bottom of the bed. I purchased the set for ~75 USD. Just remove your factory bump stop brackets with a plasma cutter or sawzall, drop a 3/8" bolt through the existing hole, and put a nut on the underside. With the vehicle on flat ground at ride height, there is 5/16" clearance between my bump stop and the landing on the axle tube. This is a relatively simple solution that provides a good combination of load capacity (can still use a half ton truck like a half ton), and ride comfort. I have zero qualms throwing two supermotos in the back of the truck, or hauling a thousand pound load. If you have any questions feel free to shoot a DM. Just something I found and figured I'd share.

I think the polished lips give the appearance of a much smaller wheel. However. certainly is a neat look!

My front wheels are perfectly centered. However, camber is a bit of an issue after the springs have fully settled over a few thousand miles.

Send me a DM if you have any questions. I'm 4/7 on a 4x4

Sounds to me like some sort of issue with the flapper..but I've been tuned and flapper-less since the dealership lot

I ran it through the grommet next to the steering column as so many others have with no issues whatsoever. Now my music is rocking

Is there any reason you're interested in spending money on a system that performs very well? Not trying to be rude, just curious as to why you would prefer investing here rather than elsewhere!

If you're having alignment problems its easier and cheaper to press in offset control arm bushings. You'll put the offset side towards the frame of the truck and it'll push the upper arm out to give you more positive camber. It got mine from -2.5* to about -0.8* on each side. Just food for thought. I paid 90 bucks for a set of bushings and pressed them in.

Like previously mentioned, these trucks - along with most newer cars - use a variable displacement oil pump. They'll deliver full pressure when demanded, but for just cruising around they'll cut back on pressure to reduce drag on the engine. 0w20 has been used on quite a few Japanese and other imports for at LEAST the past decade. Though I can understand why it's a bit baffling to the proverbial "truck owner"

It's a strut and spring combination, but like Brandon said I have just under a full degree of negative camber. Seems as though the spindle is a better route to go, I was just curious as to if my setup would work...And it does steel arms -Shaun

Don't mind the photo quality! I just placed a small piece of wood on the drivers side so it sits on the hand screw and the wood evenly.

If you never ride 3 up or put the center seat up, a Rockford fosgate 10" truck box fits great tucked behind the middle. It gets hugged when both seats are back, so no need to mount.....I suppose.....

Interesting that your driveshaft is pushed so far in. At a 7" rear drop I have about an inch and a half of shaft sticking out of the seal.

Like Nasty said..you won't know until you try it. My 7" rear drop took a set of 6 degree pinion shims. Somehow every truck is different.

4/7 drop on a 4wd

For those of you with a 7" rear drop and having bump stop issues, look into Timbren products. I had an issue where the stops that came with the McGaughys axle flip literally fell apart due to being hollow foam. I chose P/N A140-65 which has a height of 1 7/8" (giving about 1/4" of clearance between the stop and the pad it hits on) and a deflected height of 1 9/16" which means the brake line/hose junction bolted to the top of the rear end housing does not need to be worried about. Install was simple and only involved drilling a 3/8" hole where the old bump stop bracket used to be, and fishing a bolt with a lock washer through a hole in the frame about 3" away. I managed to shove the open end of a wrench thru the whole and spin the bump stop onto the bolt and sock 'er down. These bump stops are way better built than the ones that come with the aftermarket kits. They're commonly used in applications where a person hauls heavy loads and needs a helper spring, but doesn't want to go through the hassle of installing a helper spring. We've used these products for customers over and over and will continue to recommend them.

I have the belltech 2210FF on the rear of my RCSB, and it rides phenomenally. Currently looking into Timbren products to use as the bump stops. The ones from mcgaughys aren't cutting it.

2" drop shackles and a rear block delete will net you about 3.25" of drop..and that is ONLY if your shackles are actually a 2" drop. My McGaughys shackles were about a 1 3/4" drop. Hope this helps!