I would first drop tire psi when not hauling or pulling.
I had it on the interstate for enough time to get the boost up. I would think that it would have maxed out. Wot on an on-ramp with the boat hooked up should be enough to get the most out of it. I bet that the OBDII module is not reporting correctly. Was also surprised that it showed a vacuum for most cruising speeds. Would have thought that there would be boost at highway speeds with a good load.
I have an OBDII plug in module that can monitor lots of engine info, and some car info. It is nice to see IAT on gas engines, spark advance etc. this was the original intention of use, as I wanted to see what was going on with my 6.0 engine. Simply searching for optimized power. Well, I gave up on the 6.0 and bought a Dmax and plugged the same module in and was surprised to see the boost top out at 8psi. The module could be reporting wrong, but this was the highest boost I saw, even when attached to my 11k boat trailer and WOT. Everything seems to run right, and did some research on line and guess that the boost is supposed to be around 28psi. Is the correct boost supposed to be 28-30psi? Just looking to see if it is the module, or maybe the boost is lower than I thought it was supposed to be. Just not sure. Thanks
have the same concern and have been under my 2016 and now 2018 to pull the harness off the plug and filled it with dielectric grease. also fill the plug on the trailer with the same to reduce any chance of water getting in. I do not believe that it would be easy to flip it, as the harness is pretty hefty with all the wiring, tape etc.
Was pulling my trailer yesterday and got the thought. Why is the exhaust brake a feature that you have to turn on? I really cannot imagine a time where you would not want this engaged when you are pulling a trailer. For that matter, it could be something that you may want even unloaded. Any thoughts? Is there some downside that I am not aware of?
Well, got my 2500 dmax the other day. Was a 2018 left over, and got a great deal on it. Bought from a dealer in Ohio, they picked up the truck and traded a dealer in Ky, drove to my place of business and dropped it off. It is about a year old, and arrived with about 550 miles on it. While I always change my oil around 500-750 initial miles after break in, I decided to check the engine oil life, and was a little surprised that it was at 45%. Didn’t think that it would be that low, as I drive a lot of new GM cars for work, and have never seen one drop so quick. Could it it be that the truck had a lot of really short trips in its life at a dealership lot for almost a year, and that pulled it down so quick....or is that normal? Doesnt matter, as I will be getting it all cleaned up and getting the oil changed quickly anyway...just wondering. Somfar, I absolutely love the truck. Will miss the gasses....but the deal I got I could not pass up.
I see that there is a different part number for OEM running boards for crew cab trucks with/without diesel engines. I assume there is something to work around the DEF tank on the pass side, but thought someone would know. Asking due to the fact that a friend has a set of what I am looking for, but they are for gas version. Thought is that I could buy them and modify and save some money....assuming there isn't a big difference. Thanks in advance. Below is a link showing the parts for the diesel....as a reference. https://www.ebay.com/itm/22805684-Rectangular-Chrome-Step-6-OEM-2015-16-Silverado-Sierra-Crew-Cab-6-6L/233146560966
Looking to buy some Oem running boards. Do the 4” round ones, or the rectangular ones hide the def tank better. Have the 4”round ones on my current truck, and they function great...but it is a gasser and do not have the def tank to hide. Truck does not have anything on it from the factory, so I can add either.
Have a 2016 2500hd gasser, and plan to buy a 2018 leftover. Should be a goood deal, but want to ask if there are any issues with 2018 MY that I should be aware of. Loved the gasser, but just did not have the torque to pull my boat in some situations. Since I bought it at a great price, and it has really low miles, I am going to get a great deal. Any advice or concerns?
New hp engines new are moving to 0w-xx weight oil. A very good....arguably better oil application would be 0w-40. Same oil that is used in Corvette for current MY(no engine changes...just oil), and with the exception of the ZR1, you do not need to replace the oil(factory fill was 5w-30) when you go to the track(previously was a requirement to drain and switch to 15w-50....then switch back to 5w-30 for street use). So...now, one oil validated for street AND track...except ZR1. Validated by GM torture dynos to assure wear is better, fuel economy is better....this is the new oil in everything I own except my mercury marine engines. Go buy 0w-40 is it specified for the 6.0? No....but just think of the validation needed to change this, on an old engine. They would not waste the dyno time and money....does not mean it is not better.
I also use 4wd low range when pulling my boat up the ramp and hills in Lake Cumberland. Roads are STEEP, and even though my boat and trailer is around 9k...getting going on the huge incline is tough on the trans. Add a 95 def day, and you may not even have the power to move the rig up the steep hills.
I do have the cruise controls on the wheel, but nothing for the radio. Does anyone know if it is a direct plug in? My interior is all gray, so would like one that is of similar color. There are a few on eBay for sale, just not sure about the connectors for airbag and cruise control.
Yes...that is what mine looks like. Just do not see any good ideas that do not look totally bolted on. I have a transmission cooler grill in the center, so this is not an option. No interest in removing the tow/recovery hooks. Might just be out of luck.
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