iamdanieltuck

Yessir. Pm with name, mailing address, model trim and year of truck, email address to send PayPal invoice and your phone number. I have a few ore built ready to ship. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Then just follow the instructions in this thread. I thought you meant about working in drive Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cargo light on while driving with stock button https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Egm-trucks%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Findex%2Ephp%3F%2Ftopic%2F195516-Cargo-light-on-while-driving-with-stock-button&share_tid=195516&share_fid=33003&share_type=t Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did it with a latching relay. I posted how I did it in the 2500 forum Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am looking into a solution that only requires a wire. It seems the in drive interrupts the + signal to activate the relay. If I'm right, it will only take running a wire from driver side in front of door to passenger side fuse box and putting a diode in to prevent feed back to bcm. I tapped my low amp + input to the back of the passenger fuse panel control wire for the cargo light relay (which plugs into the back of that fuse panel). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes mine is a 2500 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I bypassed the not working in drive function using a PAC tr7 module triggered by the cargo light momentary ground and have it activating the cargo light relay. Simple and effective. I can write it up better later if anyone is interested. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This harness will provide two battery power sources, 1 Rap accessory, 1 crank accessory and a ground. It is very useful in adding any mod. I just wanted to clarify due to some inquiries. My harnesses are soldered at every joint and will handle far greater current than factory equipment. I will offer wiring support for anyone that buys one and stand behind my product as long as I'm alive and able. They come with braided friction shielding and I can custom build and write up plans for just about anything you want to install. This is just something I do to make things easier and since this is my hobby. Any questions, please feel free to openly post or pm. If you know you are going to order please include name, shipping address, email address truck info to include trim level as well. Thanks for your time. I currently have a couple left pre built but they are going faster than anticipated. I've place an order to replenish supplies so I should be able to maintain same day shipping. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you sir! I learned some lessons about inadequate wiring the hard way when I was young. I'm happy to help out any way I can. There are plenty of resources for wiring in these trucks available if you have any questions. Tons of people on here can help too. Best of luck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The parts aren't all that expensive but the time it takes to solder every joint, heat shrink or braided shield every harness and pin and to offer replacement for even abuse is the difference. Homemade improperly crimped harnesses will short under excessive load or pull out of the connector. I've written up plenty and offered documentation to anyone who wants to build their own. The thing is that some people can't or don't want to do it. If you want support with wiring or prints I give that too. These aren't assembly built. I hand build, test and stand behind every one. It's not just putting them together. Anyone can crimp with a pair of plyers or use the wrong terminal for different gauge wires. I put the proper pieces together at the same price as buying them at wholesale pricing from gm ($40-$50 based on other forum members) and my wire far exceeds theirs in friction resistance and better conduction. Buying wholesale from terminal suppliers is def cheaper if you have the proper crimper, solder and skill set. If you are an average joe with some projects, buying a $30 crimper and soldering iron isn't practical. If you are capable, then build your own and save. If you want to have support and warranty, I'm happy to assist. I value my time and think it's fair. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have this harness providing trigger power for a relay to a viair onboard air compressor and a fass 150. I have it powering floor led lights, lights in my tool box that I tapped into the bed rail lights. It powers a hard wire USB charger to power an iPhone 6 Plus that I use for my tuner and the 12v air valves for my train horns and tank drain system. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's cheaper to build your own but my harness is soldered on every connection with 600v rated contractor grade braided wire and braided anti friction shielding. If you damage it or have an oops I'll repair it. I warranty for 30 days but as long as I have materials to help you, I'll repair in good will. I treat every item like it's going in my truck and I don't delay shipping. I have materials in stock and pre order when I get low. I sell quite a few of these and will discount for anyone ordering 10 or more. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you build yourself make sure you solder the wires to pins. I have some extra parts because I ordered in bulk. I'm selling already built and pinned with braided shielding for $45 plus shipping. I figure it's the same price as a dealer but with better wire, shielding and already pinned and color coded for ease. Also I ship the next day after payment. If you want to build yourself I'll ship all parts for $25 plus shipping and ship next day. If you buy my harness I'll provide support for any wiring you need. I also have an option to build on a relay so you have inadvertent discharge battery voltage. I build a Bosch relay and diode into harness so it supply you with battery power that the bcm turns off 20 min after the last door trigger with the key off or to prevent battery discharge. It protects you from forgetting something on and killing your battery. If I can help anyone, let me know. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

An oem wiring harness to access rap, battery power, crank accessory power and ground. $45 is a cheap way to insure we don't short something tapping it or catch on fire. $45 plus shipping Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you'd like to clean up and have full amperage for other mods I built oem supplier (Delphi) harnesses to tap that x7 port. $45 plus shipping. GM parts are $68 and not pinned Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk To be clear, I but from who gm buys. I meant if you purchase through gm, that would be the price and the trim would be blue. It's still a Delphi connector Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a viair 450c with 2 2.5 viar tanks on a 110 on 14( off pressure switch. I wired a Bosch relay into the gm stock upfitter harness and later added in wiring it to the inadvertent power controlled by the bcm. I run train horns and a full filter water separator that's mounted on my tool box. I run 1/2 ID brake grade line and push in DOT connectors. It's the easiest, most durable and leak resistant setup I could find. The compressor is 100% duty cycle and this is the 3rd truck I've ran it on. I don't beat it up too bad except a blue nozzle to clean truck, occasional impact gun and train horns like it's my job. I made a harness to tap into the upfitter port by the pedals that's oem parts. I'm selling them since I had to purchase a large quantity of parts to get them cheap. GM sells the un pinned parts for $68 I'll build, pin and ship ready to wire for $45 plus $6.80 shipping Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk