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Tom G

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  1. Ill send a pick here in a few days. Bottom back corner of my cab is an actual hole. Some spots here and there like on the bumpers. Also a few places where my trailer has been dinged up and then sat for long enough to rust. Thinking about even doing the whole bottom 10% of my truck one day. Just the spots for now. Its gonna look like a grass eating steak fur a while
  2. I am new, guys, to painting for rust prevention. According to the research I have done, this is what I will do. Like I said brand new. 1. Wire wheel and sandpaper- taking off rust and any paint, bringin to bare metal 2. Bondo where necessary 3. OSPHO 4.sand 5.Marine Clean 6.Tape up 7.Primer (POR 15 Metal Prep), sand, clean, primer, sand clean, primer, sand clean, bondo, sand primer, clean 8.POR 15 Rust preventative coating (lightest coat, light coat, then a wooly jacket kinda coat) 9.let cure for 24 hours 10.Top Coat (What are some good brands of rubberized type top coats that arent cheap?) 11. Clear coat if Im feeling like a real pro. 12. wet sand with 15xx and 20xx 13. Drive away happy and get some cough syrup. Where am I going wrong? What extra should I do, whose back to I have to scratch to get the in on how to do this the best way? Thanks to Ya.
  3. That fix has already been done on my current engine. The guys at Preferred Chrysler have given me the thumbs up on making sure the new parts from the old engine end up on the new engine. If they ever get around to it. My truck has been sitting in the same place untouched for over a week. They got the new engine in on Thursday and still it sits.
  4. Thanks for all the info guys. Core charge on my engine is $450 How hard will it be to resell once I have fixed it up? Also, is it out of the ordinary to call the guys that sold me the engine and ask for it's history?
  5. I wont report you the expense of the warranty, but after this repair is complete on it, I will be close to the expense of the warranty. All in all a fair trade I guess. I have had manifolds replaced, a water pump and now an old engine ripped out of it. With these engines supposedly "getting broken in" at 150xxx it begs the question: What kind of a wingnut was driving the old engine and why did the part that was replaced need to get replaced. There is a weakness in the repaired engine. How is it going to be found is the question. A remanned engine would be reliable whereas whatever goes into it might have 2 years on it if I am counting things right? I am no expert, if these thoughts are off base, eh?
  6. The reason I'm asking is because "the little engine that ticks" is back at the dealership (Preferred Chrslyer) where I bought it. They sold the wrong warranty to me, but are covering themselves to make up for their mistake. I tried to get them to put in a new engine. Wouldn't have it. A "Remanned Engine" (never heard of that), wouldnt do that either. It looks like the engine they are putting in there is going to have somewhere between 110 and 180 on it. That's more than the engine that is in it. Should I be concerned? Also, I put a pallet, some cardboard and plywood into the truck for them to put my old engine on. Ill be replacing the bad crank, and connecting rod. Is it out of the ordinary for me to request that?
  7. Good reliable places that offer quality warrantied used engines. Any experience in buying used engines from places is appreciated. The engine that is in there now is a 6.0 L Vortec from 2005. Go
  8. Thanks. I may just buy a new crankshaft, a new conrod then because Ill have to take the truck apart and let it sit while the parts get machined and then get bearings based on the remachining is what Im gathering. Is it really difficult to install a crankshaft? Im taking the engine apart from the top. At least that is my plan right now.
  9. Hey, I am looking at bearings for connecting rods. 2005 sierra 2500hd vortec 6.0 What size should I get? Should I replace the rod itself too? Should I also replace the cam? http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/gmc,2005,sierra+2500,6.0l+v8,1431215,engine,connecting+rod+bearing,5212
  10. I unstrapped the belt and started the truck... still no fix. After going into both valve covers and checking all the push rods and rocker arms, Im thinking that it is a connecting rod or connecting rod bearing.
  11. I have put 20xxx on it since I bought it two years ago. When I drove it for the first time it had 90xxx. Now its at something like 113xxx. I wonder how much damage I am doing to it driving it with a spin bearing.
  12. If I get into it and find that the repair is beyond my budget I will probably do it that way. If that is the case I will need some instructions on how to get to the part, most likely from under the vehicle.
  13. I think the crankshaft is alright. I guess I could replace it if it isn't. The reason I am leaning towards a spun bearing: It is my work truck, I take excellent care of it, but it's home is an open faced rental garage that shares a yard with what is almost a junk yard. This fella I know, Terry's (the owner) son complained that the engine in his just bought vehicle had just gone because it mysteriously ran out of oil. A few days later, I found my truck making that noise. My truck ussually was about 1/4 of a quart low whenever I changed the oil (about every 7 months) and has been checked for burning/leaking oil and is not doing either. My truck now fills with 6 quarts and was running on 5 quarts for maybe a few months. I'm not sure if that is enough low to make a difference here though. I would rather go into the engine and replace the connecting rod and bearing, and fix or replace any other parts that may have been affected. I do not mind spending some time on my truck as it is. I saw a guy do a quick fix on a spun bearing by getting to it from under the vehicle. He sanded down the connecting rod with a small circular strip of sand paper to as smooth as he could get it and then installed the new connecting rod bearing. VWOLLA, problem fixed. or something
  14. I went in and checked the push rods on one side today.... all clear. Everything was good and clean in there too. I went ahead and sprayed some carb cleaner into the holes to get to the lifters. The rocker arms were all completely solid. no play at all. I could be wrong but a spun bearing gives the connecting rod enough play to tap on its downstroke. The scrape noise is not really heard. Tomorrow I am going to do the same check on the other cylinders on the other side too. If it is still tapping I may need some help figuring out how to get to the connecting rod's bearings and how to figure out which cylinders bearing needs to be replaced.
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