Everything posted by apollo18
hello, looking to get some input. stopped by for a oil change as im on the road rn, and the tech pointed that he noticed a small leak at the cv joint where the clamp is. the other cv axle seems completely fine. i took some pics and wanted some input. im going to be driving about 1000 miles more until im back home, and then once im home ill look at getting it repaired/fixed. do you think this is a situation where i have to get it fixed asap? or should i be fine getting it fixed once im back home? thanks!
thanks for the help guys! when i saw him take the hub off it came off rather easily, i think he wanted to put the o ring back on but it kinda lost shape when he removed it and i dont think it sit nicely so thats why he didnt use it. im 99.9% sure the bearing didnt come with a new o ring as ive read the same thing on forums too. ive also heard and read mixed opinions some people say its a NEED and that it stops water and rust and debris from entering but some people say it doesnt really make a difference i wont be able to go back to that shop since its 4 hours away. what would you guys do? go back and take it all apart, buy a new o ring, and install it? or just forget it
i sometimes read online that people recommend changing out this o ring when doing hub replacements any ideas on what it does or what the purpose is? did you guys just use the old one or install without it? ACDELCO 290300 GM Original Equipment Front Wheel Bearing Seal (O-Ring) i dont think wheel bearings come with a new o ring and when i watched the guy at the shop do my wheel bearing/hub replacement i saw him throw the old o ring in the garbage and i dont think the new wheel bearing/hub came with a new o ring hoping it is fine with no o ring cuz i totally dont want to go back and install a new o ring
hello, on my 2003 hummer h2 i noticed that when i first leave home in the morning, when i am turning left there is a clunking /crunching noise. it sounds similar to like a pop can getting crumpled kinda thing, idk i suck at explaining noises. it will keep making this noise on every left turn. the right turns are perfectly normal and quite. i also noticed after 10 mins or so the noise goes away. it can only be heard when i am turning at slow speeds, idk if its still there when i am turning at 30-35 kmh. and like i said when i make right turns, everything sounds normal. i think the culprit could be my driver side outer tie rod end. i recently did a bunch of suspension work a few months ago involving new control arm, ball joints, tie rods etc etc and i noticed that the boot on my driver side outer tie rod end was ripped a few months ago. they are moog greaseable design btw. I didnt think anything of it, i thought maybe it was just extra grease that came out of the zerk fitting. well last week i went to regrease and yeah the boot was indeed ripped and when i put in new grease, it basically came out when i did some turns. i ordered a new outer tie rod end and it will be coming today and i am going to be installing that. i havent done anything else like off roading or any bad driving. I do regularly drive on bumpy roads/ heavily pot holed roads and i feel like i should probably stop that as its probably doing more harm then good aha. so i just wanted to ask, does this sound like its probably just the outer tie rod on my driver side? or could it be something else like the steering shaft or the pitman/idler arm? the reason i think it could be the outer tie rod end is that after 10 mins of driving maybe the grease gets warmed up and it doesnt clunk and just slides easily or something which stops it from clunking while when the grease is cold its not lubricating as much as it should be? thanks!
hey guys! the person who had my truck before installed a cold air intake but what is odd is that the truck already has a side vent which brings in outside air from the fender for the stock airbox so i am confused on why he upgraded. any how the original airbox on my gm v8 truck pulls air from the side vent from the fender and the air goes into a cold air box with the filter and then to the throttle body. the whole unit is sealed and theres no gaps or nooks or crannies for any of the hot engine air to somehow get into the original intake. well with my cold air intake. it has a big air filter like ever other cold air intake and it sits in a open air box. what i noticed about this airbox is that it has alot of nooks and crannies so hot engine air could easily feed into the air filter. secondly the part where the air filter sits in the airbox/ the part where the tube enters the open airbox is relatively open so hot air could easily slide into the air box again. thirdly and fourthly, it is wide open on the top in the engine bay and i dont think it seals shut against the hood when it is closed, i looked and measured and there seems that there will be a gap. but even if the top of it seals shut against the hood, there is alot of space for hot engine air to hit the air filter. lastly the cold air from outside doesnt even channel into the airbox like how a stock gm air box would. so i wanted to ask, is this worse for my engine? i tried asking a air filter company but they said the heat and air in the engine bay doesnt sit long enough for it to get into the air filter causing a loss of performance. but everytime i open my hood, it feels pretty warm in there and the air filter is pretty warm to. the only way i could see this actually helping is if it channeled the cold air from the fender with a pipe kinda like the original gm airbox and then have a large covered sealedd airbox that has no space for leaks to house the aftermarket air filter. this way cold air would come from outside and the larger air filter would allow more cold air to hit the engine. and the perfectly sealed airbox would stop any hot air from the engine from entering the air intake. so does it not make a difference if it is wide open like my picture below / when there are nooks/crannies and space open for hot air to enter the air box. what i have noticed is that when the engine is cold started and i first drive, for the first 5 mins the throttle feels noticeably more responsive. after 5 mins it loses that responsiveness and i think that is attributed to the facvt that the engine gets hotter releasing hot air into the engine area which leads to the intake. is the only way i can see if this is degrading performance by monitoring IAT with some type of obd2 scanner or something? attached is a pic in this link before of my airbox airbox pics
got it off! thanks guys! my 900 inch pounds / 80 ft lb impact couldnt get it off so i bought a new one. apparently has about 220 ft lbs of nut busting torque, its actually a impact driver so i can use it around the house, it has that 1/4 drill bit socket. well i popped it on at speed 3 and after about 4 seconds it zipped off. i was scared for the first 2 seconds as it didnt budge at all but then it was off! must have been dirt or something when i went to tighten it back up, i didnt torque it with a wrench, just got it to when the bolt stopped tightening and gave it a bit more.
so the fill plug on the rear diff is super tight. not sure how it got that tight but i believe there is a washer infront of the plug so that must be why it got extra tight. well there is a crossmember i think its called that is in the way and its tight up there so i cant get my breaker bar to help me loosen it. the diff bolt takes a 3/8 drive directly into it to loosen it i have a impact electric wrench and i have a drill bit set that converts a drill bit to a 3/8 drive. my impact only pushes 900 inch lbs and it couldnt make it budge. there was enough space in there to get my impact in there so im glad for that i also want to get upgrade my impact wrench with a newer electric one. if i pickup one with 220-250 ft lbs of torque and i use my drill bit that converts the drill bit to 3/8 drive(see picture of it below) would that be enough to get the fill plug off? i was loosening it to the left as in counter clockwise but i think its prob a little over tight or stuck so hoping more torque from a new impact will be able to get it off? or am i wrong thanks
The owner who had my truck before installed an aftermarket intake and made some aftermarket air box as you can see in the pic. The problem is that it’s not covered so it’s basically pulling hot air from the engine. I’m looking for someone to make a lid for it that is removable or something so that I can access the air filter if need be. The point of the lid is so that it’s all covered and a proper air box. This way it will be covered from the hot engine air and pull air from the side air vent. it may look like it seals with the hood but it doesnt. i also noticed which i assume is a correlation is that when i cold start, the throttle is way more responsive. and then when the engine area warms up/after 5 mins the throttle isnt that much responsive. i assume thats attributed because when engine is cold, engine area is cold, meaning air is cold into the filter. I know that there are a bunch of crevices/nooks/crannies but i feel like i can easily insulate that with some type of spray foam insulation kinda like waht people use when they instlal a window air conditioner? any tips or ideas on what to do? i would prefer the lid to have a hinge or something so the filter can be removed i dont want to goto the original airbox/air pipe cuz then i lose out on the bigger intake aaha even tho it wont make a noticeable diff and would have to buy a old airbox air pipe and new filter
hello, i will be changing my diff fluid soon however the only place i can do it has a slight decline. my truck is high enough so i can easily remove the fill and drain plugs by just sliding over and i dont have a jack rn to level out the truck. is this something to worry about or is it fine? with my calculation in my head, it seems like if the diff is on a slight decline it will take slightly more fluid compared to a diff that is level. thanks!
for a 6.0l v8 LQ4 engine, with 250,000 km on it. there seems to be a rear main seal leak or oil pan gasket leak and its been like this for about a year. when the weather was colder, it seemed to only leak about 0.5 quart over 6000 km of driving. well now summer came and i think this made it worse but i noticed it leaked about a quart over 5000 km's. every morning it has a small puddle/everytime i drive and park for a few hours. so how bad can it get? like can it rip and blow at any moment or lilke am i good? because i am parking the vehicle in like 6 months so i just need it reliable till then ahah thanks
hey guys! i was thinking of running redline or amsoil 75w90 in my diff but the more i read, it seems like people are saying conventional is better. any diff builders or people who have spoke to diff builders here to comment on this? here is a link for a reading: https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/files/PDF Files/ecgs-gear-oil-recommendation1.pdf
hey guys! in my truck i purchased a new ac delco battery with 42 month free replacement warranty in the end of 2014 because my old battery was out of warranty i assume. in early 2018, this ac delco 79pg battery stopped working and i took it to the gm dealership and they replaced it under the 42 month free replacement warranty with another ac delco 79pg battery. now in 2020, the warranty battery stopped holding a charge and i took it in and they tested it and it failed on the spot. but they said they cant warranty it since the warranty starts for the original battery which was in 2014. is this true? or are they trying to get away with it? in my opinion since the 2018 battery is the exact same battery and has 42 month warranty, it should have warranty starting from 2018 because thats when it was installed. i was thinking of just taking it to a different dealership and and not giving my vin and hopefully they just base it off of the date code stamped on the battery? any tips on if i am eligible for a replacement an easier way? thanks
it has 240,000 km on it, when i changed the fluid the old fluid was still red and smelled fine. i did a pan drop 5-6 years ago so it kept the fluid fresh! i heard when you do the cooler excahnge method which is what i did, air can get stuck in the system which causes the level to lower until all the air is out, but ive added 1/4 quart about 5 times over the past 2 weeks but i cant find any leaks. i parked the truck in the garage while i did oil change and some other work and nothing, bot even a drip. i checked the cooler line area and it was clean too.. can it honestly be that much air? what i also noticed is the level never dips below the "cold" mark on the dipstick, i always check when the tranny is hot but when it does lower its always showing on the dipstick. thanks!
Ahh ok! I had a mechanic do a pan drop a couple years ago and it looked like the exact same gasket was still on it. A paper one. Maybe I just tightened it too much or do you think the bolts just got a little losse
Hey guys my truck has the 4l60e and about 10 days ago I dropped the pan, installed a new gm filter and gasket and then reinstalled the pan. Torqued it to 11 foot lbs with a torque wrench. I then removed the cooler line and did the cooler liner exchanged. I filled it to cold and then drove around for 30 mins and added again to get it to the “hot” section. The next day I hit the highway and drove 600km. Everything went fine, 2 days later I noticed the transmission RPM were surging when I would shift from reverse to park, park to drive etc so I thought it was due to the cold weather or something. I hit the road again and after 100km I pulled over and filled gas and checked the transmission fluid and it was in the cold region again, weirdly so I added again to get it into the hot area and continued on with my day. The surges were due to the low fluid it seemed so once i filled up it was all good. This whole last week I didn’t drive much so I couldn’t get it hot enough to check but i didn’t notice any surging/rpm spikes so I assumed everything was good! Yesterday I checked the fluid again when it was hot, and it was back down to the cold region again. So I added again for the 2nd time. I heard that sometimes air gets in the system when I remove cooler line and do the exchange but I doubt it could be that much. I assume I have a small leak or something? It seems to only like the amount between cold and hot on the dip stick which is like 250-400mL maximum imo. What do you guys think it is? I assume pan needs to be retorqued again? Or maybe the cooler line is leaking but I checked quickly and didn’t notice anything. Anything else I should look at? Thanks!
im in canada so those master cylinders arent really availabe for a good price!
ahh fair enough! i added the wagner to my cart but i noticed it ships from a diff location compared to the other stuff that i want to order and basically makes it more expensive then the raysbestos. seems like im leaning towards the raysbestos then if its basically a toss up but will wait for more input!! thx for all help
its for a 2001 2500, yeah im actually looking at rockauto but in canada the exchange rate is worse so im paying almost double for the delco. do you think its absolutely necessary or worth it to stay with delco? or just go with the raybestos or wagner? the wagner will be $10 less but ive heard more of the raybestos brand so not sure which one to go with thx
hello! i am in need of a new master cylinder and dont want to spend the $170 for a delco one unless i really need to. Is there any difference between aftermarket ones versus delco? i found these ones for a decent price on rock auto: prices in CAD RAYBESTOS MC390542 $90 CENTRIC 13066042 $100 WAGNER MC144044 $79 or the delco ACDELCO 18M1107 $168 I am currently leaning towards getting the non ac delco one as I save some money but if you guys think I should only go with oem delco for brake master cylinders then i will for sure do that, but If i am able to save some money without sacrificing anything then I would love to go with one of these $90 MC if so, then which of those 3 do you recommend? off the top of my head i know raysbestos makes decent brakes so i lean towards there MC, but I am not an expert with MC so just going to go with consensus thanks!
Hey guys! i know this has been discussed tons but just wanted some updated info, going to be swapping out the pads soon, my rotors are fine and looking for recommendations. i dont tow but i obviously want the best performance i can get for the price! i was looking at rockauto and it seems like any of those brake pads are in my budget range, what do you guys recommend? i think i read the oe pads are: ac delco 17D785CH which are around $60 cad I also found these: ACDELCO 17D784SDHSevere Duty; Ceramic for $90 cad AKEBONO ASP785A for $97 cad BREMBO P10026N $80 cad POWER STOP Z36784 $64 cad AKEBONO ACT784 $67 these are on sale for only $67 not sure if there worth it compared to $87 regular so what do you guys say? is any of these better then the other? or all basically the same thing? i just want the best pad, money doesnt matter thx!
just wanted to ad! i called my dealerships and i found out that i had a full fluid exchange done 100,000 km ago and they put in dex 6, so that means the 4l60e is running fully or primarily dex 6. so should i stay with dex 6 then? since its lasted the last 100,000 km perfectly fine on dex 6. current tranny km is at 245,000km or its all good if i just find a dex/merc fluid that is suitable for gm dexron iii. since the license for dex 3 expired, i found a couple conventional fluids i was thinking of running.. https://www.peaveymart.com/Multi-Purpose-ATF-Fluid-757L-P25935.aspx which is a dex/merc fluid https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-dexron-iii-mercon-automatic-transmission-fluid-0281502p.html or this which is "for vehicles that require dex 3" i think valvoline even makes a fluid for dex 3 still/castrol so i could do that too! i heard all dex 3 fluids are the same, so do i just go with what i can find the cheapest? the people over at the ls1 tranny forum recommend conventional dex 3 but i have a dillemna now, since the truck has been on dex 6 for the last 100,000 km then it seems like i should follow "dont fix what aint broken" and just go with delco dex 6 but alot of people swear by keeping it at conventional dex 3 sorry for beating a dead horse, just wanted to include the info that now i know it has dex 6 running in it for the last 100k km and now i dont know which way to go
hey guys! have a 2003 4l60e in my hummer h2. it has 240,000 km on it on the original transmission. i dont remember the maintenance history for the tranny between 2003-2015 i have no clue but i know around 2015-2016 ish? my mexchanic did a pan drop and put in some fresh fluid but i dont know if it was dexron iii or dexron 6. so now i want to switch out the fluid all 16 quarts or whatever thru the coolers lines but dont know what fluid to use. ive heard the saying that you should never switch to synthetics later on because it leaks, but i also read the 4l60 doesnt like synthetic as it is too slippery. i was reading on the ls1 tech forum and all the tranny builders say to stick with conventional dex 3. so for the pan drop my mechanic did 4-5 years ago i have no clue what fluid he used for the 5-6 quarts, it could have been dex 3 or dex 6 no clue. so i want to run conventional dex 3 which seems easy to find as theres so many dex/merc fluids, but my problem is that i have read that dexron 6 is a synthetic and if my truck has dexron 6 synthetic in it, then i dont want to cause a problem by switching from dex 6 to dex 3. i dont know what fluid the truck has in it, it could be dex 6 fully or it could be a mix of both, or it could be all dex 3. so all im trying to ask is if there is any possibility for something to go wrong if my tranny had synthetic dex 6 in it and i run conventional dex 3 now. the truck was originally recommended to use dex 3 when it was released but i always hear how people say not to use synthetics later in life because it ends up blowing thru seals/leaking so i dont want something to happen like that if i switch to conventional dex 3 thanks!
hey guys! have a 2003 4l60e in my hummer h2. it has 240,000 km on it on the original transmission. i dont remember the maintenance history for the tranny between 2003-2015 i have no clue but i know around 2015-2016 ish? my mexchanic did a pan drop and put in some fresh fluid but i dont know if it was dexron iii or dexron 6. so now i want to switch out the fluid all 16 quarts or whatever thru the coolers lines but dont know what fluid to use. ive heard the saying that you should never switch to synthetics later on because it leaks, but i also read the 4l60 doesnt like synthetic as it is too slippery. i have no clue what the mechanic would have used 5 years ago, if dexron iii was still recommended for my truck then obviously that. but it seems like dexron 6 was released in 2006 ish and it superseded the dexron iii and is a semi/full synthetic as a minimum now for the new fluid i am looking to use for 16 quarts, i dont know if i should try to find a regular non synthetic dexron iii which i dont even know if i can find, or just use gm's dexron 6? my problem is this: lets say the truck has dexron iii in it and when my mechanic did the pan drop, he found dexron iii and put it in theres also the possibility the fluid was changed in like 2008-2011 ish and dexron 6 went in and then in 2015-2016 when my mechanic did the pan drop he did dexron 6 if it has dexron 3 in it rn then i will for sure just put dex 3 in it again but if its dexron 6, then i dont know if i feel safe going down to a dex 3, but i also read the 4l60e hates synthetics which makes no sense since gm basically made a synthetic fluid for it any 4l60e wizards here aha
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