it has 240,000 km on it, when i changed the fluid the old fluid was still red and smelled fine. i did a pan drop 5-6 years ago so it kept the fluid fresh! i heard when you do the cooler excahnge method which is what i did, air can get stuck in the system which causes the level to lower until all the air is out, but ive added 1/4 quart about 5 times over the past 2 weeks but i cant find any leaks. i parked the truck in the garage while i did oil change and some other work and nothing, bot even a drip. i checked the cooler line area and it was clean too.. can it honestly be that much air? what i also noticed is the level never dips below the "cold" mark on the dipstick, i always check when the tranny is hot but when it does lower its always showing on the dipstick. thanks!
Ahh ok! I had a mechanic do a pan drop a couple years ago and it looked like the exact same gasket was still on it. A paper one. Maybe I just tightened it too much or do you think the bolts just got a little losse
apollo18 started following 2003 4l60e what fluid?, 4l60e pan leak? or cooler line?, anyone have experience with this RAYBESTOS Master Cylinder MC390542 and and 2 others
Hey guys my truck has the 4l60e and about 10 days ago I dropped the pan, installed a new gm filter and gasket and then reinstalled the pan. Torqued it to 11 foot lbs with a torque wrench. I then removed the cooler line and did the cooler liner exchanged. I filled it to cold and then drove around for 30 mins and added again to get it to the “hot” section. The next day I hit the highway and drove 600km. Everything went fine, 2 days later I noticed the transmission RPM were surging when I would shift from reverse to park, park to drive etc so I thought it was due to the cold weather or something. I hit the road again and after 100km I pulled over and filled gas and checked the transmission fluid and it was in the cold region again, weirdly so I added again to get it into the hot area and continued on with my day. The surges were due to the low fluid it seemed so once i filled up it was all good. This whole last week I didn’t drive much so I couldn’t get it hot enough to check but i didn’t notice any surging/rpm spikes so I assumed everything was good! Yesterday I checked the fluid again when it was hot, and it was back down to the cold region again. So I added again for the 2nd time. I heard that sometimes air gets in the system when I remove cooler line and do the exchange but I doubt it could be that much. I assume I have a small leak or something? It seems to only like the amount between cold and hot on the dip stick which is like 250-400mL maximum imo. What do you guys think it is? I assume pan needs to be retorqued again? Or maybe the cooler line is leaking but I checked quickly and didn’t notice anything. Anything else I should look at? Thanks!
im in canada so those master cylinders arent really availabe for a good price!
ahh fair enough! i added the wagner to my cart but i noticed it ships from a diff location compared to the other stuff that i want to order and basically makes it more expensive then the raysbestos. seems like im leaning towards the raysbestos then if its basically a toss up but will wait for more input!! thx for all help
its for a 2001 2500, yeah im actually looking at rockauto but in canada the exchange rate is worse so im paying almost double for the delco. do you think its absolutely necessary or worth it to stay with delco? or just go with the raybestos or wagner? the wagner will be $10 less but ive heard more of the raybestos brand so not sure which one to go with thx
hello! i am in need of a new master cylinder and dont want to spend the $170 for a delco one unless i really need to. Is there any difference between aftermarket ones versus delco? i found these ones for a decent price on rock auto: prices in CAD RAYBESTOS MC390542 $90 CENTRIC 13066042 $100 WAGNER MC144044 $79 or the delco ACDELCO 18M1107 $168 I am currently leaning towards getting the non ac delco one as I save some money but if you guys think I should only go with oem delco for brake master cylinders then i will for sure do that, but If i am able to save some money without sacrificing anything then I would love to go with one of these $90 MC if so, then which of those 3 do you recommend? off the top of my head i know raysbestos makes decent brakes so i lean towards there MC, but I am not an expert with MC so just going to go with consensus thanks!
Hey guys! i know this has been discussed tons but just wanted some updated info, going to be swapping out the pads soon, my rotors are fine and looking for recommendations. i dont tow but i obviously want the best performance i can get for the price! i was looking at rockauto and it seems like any of those brake pads are in my budget range, what do you guys recommend? i think i read the oe pads are: ac delco 17D785CH which are around $60 cad I also found these: ACDELCO 17D784SDHSevere Duty; Ceramic for $90 cad AKEBONO ASP785A for $97 cad BREMBO P10026N $80 cad POWER STOP Z36784 $64 cad AKEBONO ACT784 $67 these are on sale for only $67 not sure if there worth it compared to $87 regular so what do you guys say? is any of these better then the other? or all basically the same thing? i just want the best pad, money doesnt matter thx!
just wanted to ad! i called my dealerships and i found out that i had a full fluid exchange done 100,000 km ago and they put in dex 6, so that means the 4l60e is running fully or primarily dex 6. so should i stay with dex 6 then? since its lasted the last 100,000 km perfectly fine on dex 6. current tranny km is at 245,000km or its all good if i just find a dex/merc fluid that is suitable for gm dexron iii. since the license for dex 3 expired, i found a couple conventional fluids i was thinking of running.. https://www.peaveymart.com/Multi-Purpose-ATF-Fluid-757L-P25935.aspx which is a dex/merc fluid https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-dexron-iii-mercon-automatic-transmission-fluid-0281502p.html or this which is "for vehicles that require dex 3" i think valvoline even makes a fluid for dex 3 still/castrol so i could do that too! i heard all dex 3 fluids are the same, so do i just go with what i can find the cheapest? the people over at the ls1 tranny forum recommend conventional dex 3 but i have a dillemna now, since the truck has been on dex 6 for the last 100,000 km then it seems like i should follow "dont fix what aint broken" and just go with delco dex 6 but alot of people swear by keeping it at conventional dex 3 sorry for beating a dead horse, just wanted to include the info that now i know it has dex 6 running in it for the last 100k km and now i dont know which way to go
hey guys! have a 2003 4l60e in my hummer h2. it has 240,000 km on it on the original transmission. i dont remember the maintenance history for the tranny between 2003-2015 i have no clue but i know around 2015-2016 ish? my mexchanic did a pan drop and put in some fresh fluid but i dont know if it was dexron iii or dexron 6. so now i want to switch out the fluid all 16 quarts or whatever thru the coolers lines but dont know what fluid to use. ive heard the saying that you should never switch to synthetics later on because it leaks, but i also read the 4l60 doesnt like synthetic as it is too slippery. i was reading on the ls1 tech forum and all the tranny builders say to stick with conventional dex 3. so for the pan drop my mechanic did 4-5 years ago i have no clue what fluid he used for the 5-6 quarts, it could have been dex 3 or dex 6 no clue. so i want to run conventional dex 3 which seems easy to find as theres so many dex/merc fluids, but my problem is that i have read that dexron 6 is a synthetic and if my truck has dexron 6 synthetic in it, then i dont want to cause a problem by switching from dex 6 to dex 3. i dont know what fluid the truck has in it, it could be dex 6 fully or it could be a mix of both, or it could be all dex 3. so all im trying to ask is if there is any possibility for something to go wrong if my tranny had synthetic dex 6 in it and i run conventional dex 3 now. the truck was originally recommended to use dex 3 when it was released but i always hear how people say not to use synthetics later in life because it ends up blowing thru seals/leaking so i dont want something to happen like that if i switch to conventional dex 3 thanks!
hey guys! have a 2003 4l60e in my hummer h2. it has 240,000 km on it on the original transmission. i dont remember the maintenance history for the tranny between 2003-2015 i have no clue but i know around 2015-2016 ish? my mexchanic did a pan drop and put in some fresh fluid but i dont know if it was dexron iii or dexron 6. so now i want to switch out the fluid all 16 quarts or whatever thru the coolers lines but dont know what fluid to use. ive heard the saying that you should never switch to synthetics later on because it leaks, but i also read the 4l60 doesnt like synthetic as it is too slippery. i have no clue what the mechanic would have used 5 years ago, if dexron iii was still recommended for my truck then obviously that. but it seems like dexron 6 was released in 2006 ish and it superseded the dexron iii and is a semi/full synthetic as a minimum now for the new fluid i am looking to use for 16 quarts, i dont know if i should try to find a regular non synthetic dexron iii which i dont even know if i can find, or just use gm's dexron 6? my problem is this: lets say the truck has dexron iii in it and when my mechanic did the pan drop, he found dexron iii and put it in theres also the possibility the fluid was changed in like 2008-2011 ish and dexron 6 went in and then in 2015-2016 when my mechanic did the pan drop he did dexron 6 if it has dexron 3 in it rn then i will for sure just put dex 3 in it again but if its dexron 6, then i dont know if i feel safe going down to a dex 3, but i also read the 4l60e hates synthetics which makes no sense since gm basically made a synthetic fluid for it any 4l60e wizards here aha
Hey guys got a 2003 hummer h2 with a LQ4 I believe 6.0l v8 and I got the dealership installed block heater and I believe it’s a 400w but in edmonton it’s -40 Fahrenheit lately and I want more heat. Was thinking about getting another block heater or replacing this current one with a bigger one. What should I do? Or what do you guys recommend. I know this 1 block heater is prob good enough but I wanna make it slightly overkill and have more heat thx
hey guys I have a 2003 hummer h2, I want to get new shocks as I haven't changed mine at all. I am looking for the smoothest ride possible. I do not off road or tow. just normal city and highway driving. I'm kinda on a budget so don't wanna get Bilsteins or rancho. I'm looking at these: Gabriel Ultra (heard there stiff) Monroe Reflex Kyb Gas a Just KYB Monomax (heard there stiff) so I believe it's between the Monroe reflex and the kyb gas a just or anything else in similar price range. what do you recommend for the smoothest ride? thx
hey guys, my 6.2l v8 with 340,000 km has a misfire only at idle on 8th cylinder (p0308), it doesnt start right away but if im stopped for around 15-20 seconds it will start. i know for sure when i manually raise the idle by foot it doesnt misfire. the truck never misfires at speed or on highway, drives smooth as butter. i swapped coils with working coils, put in new plugs, and swapped wires. had a indie look at it and he said leakdown and compression was good, so he thought had to do with intake gasket but wasnt the case. i took it to gm, and they disgnosed and they believe its a mecahnical problem, something with the camshaft or something, ill get the full diag in a couple days. so i wont be repairing the engine or replacing it unless it was gonna be a cheap repair, im just gonna drive till it dies and then get something new. so i was thinking of using my tuner and raising the idle rpm to idk maybe 700-750 and hope it hides the misfire? if not raise to like 800-900 until it stops misifirng. is this a fine idea? or am i doing more damage then not? i am certain it will stop the misfire for idk how long because when i do that manually with my foot it doesnt misfire or will stop the misfire. i was also reading and someone said it has to do with oil passages getting clogged and the play with the camshaft increases which makes vvt wonky and causes the misfire? sounds kinda like what gm said since they said its an internal engine issue. thx!
hey thanks a ton for your reply, yeah sorry i meant 6% leak down aha. perfect ill take a look for injector pulse and also the vacuum leaks !
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