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About apollo18

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  1. hello, looking to get some input. stopped by for a oil change as im on the road rn, and the tech pointed that he noticed a small leak at the cv joint where the clamp is. the other cv axle seems completely fine. i took some pics and wanted some input. im going to be driving about 1000 miles more until im back home, and then once im home ill look at getting it repaired/fixed. do you think this is a situation where i have to get it fixed asap? or should i be fine getting it fixed once im back home? thanks!
  2. thanks for the help guys! when i saw him take the hub off it came off rather easily, i think he wanted to put the o ring back on but it kinda lost shape when he removed it and i dont think it sit nicely so thats why he didnt use it. im 99.9% sure the bearing didnt come with a new o ring as ive read the same thing on forums too. ive also heard and read mixed opinions some people say its a NEED and that it stops water and rust and debris from entering but some people say it doesnt really make a difference i wont be able to go back to that shop since its 4 hours away. what would you guys do? go back and take it all apart, buy a new o ring, and install it? or just forget it
  3. i sometimes read online that people recommend changing out this o ring when doing hub replacements any ideas on what it does or what the purpose is? did you guys just use the old one or install without it? ACDELCO 290300 GM Original Equipment Front Wheel Bearing Seal (O-Ring) i dont think wheel bearings come with a new o ring and when i watched the guy at the shop do my wheel bearing/hub replacement i saw him throw the old o ring in the garbage and i dont think the new wheel bearing/hub came with a new o ring hoping it is fine with no o ring cuz i totally dont want to go back and install a new o ring
  4. hello, on my 2003 hummer h2 i noticed that when i first leave home in the morning, when i am turning left there is a clunking /crunching noise. it sounds similar to like a pop can getting crumpled kinda thing, idk i suck at explaining noises. it will keep making this noise on every left turn. the right turns are perfectly normal and quite. i also noticed after 10 mins or so the noise goes away. it can only be heard when i am turning at slow speeds, idk if its still there when i am turning at 30-35 kmh. and like i said when i make right turns, everything sounds normal. i think the culprit could be my driver side outer tie rod end. i recently did a bunch of suspension work a few months ago involving new control arm, ball joints, tie rods etc etc and i noticed that the boot on my driver side outer tie rod end was ripped a few months ago. they are moog greaseable design btw. I didnt think anything of it, i thought maybe it was just extra grease that came out of the zerk fitting. well last week i went to regrease and yeah the boot was indeed ripped and when i put in new grease, it basically came out when i did some turns. i ordered a new outer tie rod end and it will be coming today and i am going to be installing that. i havent done anything else like off roading or any bad driving. I do regularly drive on bumpy roads/ heavily pot holed roads and i feel like i should probably stop that as its probably doing more harm then good aha. so i just wanted to ask, does this sound like its probably just the outer tie rod on my driver side? or could it be something else like the steering shaft or the pitman/idler arm? the reason i think it could be the outer tie rod end is that after 10 mins of driving maybe the grease gets warmed up and it doesnt clunk and just slides easily or something which stops it from clunking while when the grease is cold its not lubricating as much as it should be? thanks!
  5. hey guys! the person who had my truck before installed a cold air intake but what is odd is that the truck already has a side vent which brings in outside air from the fender for the stock airbox so i am confused on why he upgraded. any how the original airbox on my gm v8 truck pulls air from the side vent from the fender and the air goes into a cold air box with the filter and then to the throttle body. the whole unit is sealed and theres no gaps or nooks or crannies for any of the hot engine air to somehow get into the original intake. well with my cold air intake. it has a big air filter like ever other cold air intake and it sits in a open air box. what i noticed about this airbox is that it has alot of nooks and crannies so hot engine air could easily feed into the air filter. secondly the part where the air filter sits in the airbox/ the part where the tube enters the open airbox is relatively open so hot air could easily slide into the air box again. thirdly and fourthly, it is wide open on the top in the engine bay and i dont think it seals shut against the hood when it is closed, i looked and measured and there seems that there will be a gap. but even if the top of it seals shut against the hood, there is alot of space for hot engine air to hit the air filter. lastly the cold air from outside doesnt even channel into the airbox like how a stock gm air box would. so i wanted to ask, is this worse for my engine? i tried asking a air filter company but they said the heat and air in the engine bay doesnt sit long enough for it to get into the air filter causing a loss of performance. but everytime i open my hood, it feels pretty warm in there and the air filter is pretty warm to. the only way i could see this actually helping is if it channeled the cold air from the fender with a pipe kinda like the original gm airbox and then have a large covered sealedd airbox that has no space for leaks to house the aftermarket air filter. this way cold air would come from outside and the larger air filter would allow more cold air to hit the engine. and the perfectly sealed airbox would stop any hot air from the engine from entering the air intake. so does it not make a difference if it is wide open like my picture below / when there are nooks/crannies and space open for hot air to enter the air box. what i have noticed is that when the engine is cold started and i first drive, for the first 5 mins the throttle feels noticeably more responsive. after 5 mins it loses that responsiveness and i think that is attributed to the facvt that the engine gets hotter releasing hot air into the engine area which leads to the intake. is the only way i can see if this is degrading performance by monitoring IAT with some type of obd2 scanner or something? attached is a pic in this link before of my airbox airbox pics
  6. nah transfer case will be fine! go with a high end product like royal purple amsoil red line etc
  7. got it off! thanks guys! my 900 inch pounds / 80 ft lb impact couldnt get it off so i bought a new one. apparently has about 220 ft lbs of nut busting torque, its actually a impact driver so i can use it around the house, it has that 1/4 drill bit socket. well i popped it on at speed 3 and after about 4 seconds it zipped off. i was scared for the first 2 seconds as it didnt budge at all but then it was off! must have been dirt or something when i went to tighten it back up, i didnt torque it with a wrench, just got it to when the bolt stopped tightening and gave it a bit more.
  8. so the fill plug on the rear diff is super tight. not sure how it got that tight but i believe there is a washer infront of the plug so that must be why it got extra tight. well there is a crossmember i think its called that is in the way and its tight up there so i cant get my breaker bar to help me loosen it. the diff bolt takes a 3/8 drive directly into it to loosen it i have a impact electric wrench and i have a drill bit set that converts a drill bit to a 3/8 drive. my impact only pushes 900 inch lbs and it couldnt make it budge. there was enough space in there to get my impact in there so im glad for that i also want to get upgrade my impact wrench with a newer electric one. if i pickup one with 220-250 ft lbs of torque and i use my drill bit that converts the drill bit to 3/8 drive(see picture of it below) would that be enough to get the fill plug off? i was loosening it to the left as in counter clockwise but i think its prob a little over tight or stuck so hoping more torque from a new impact will be able to get it off? or am i wrong thanks
  9. The owner who had my truck before installed an aftermarket intake and made some aftermarket air box as you can see in the pic. The problem is that it’s not covered so it’s basically pulling hot air from the engine. I’m looking for someone to make a lid for it that is removable or something so that I can access the air filter if need be. The point of the lid is so that it’s all covered and a proper air box. This way it will be covered from the hot engine air and pull air from the side air vent. it may look like it seals with the hood but it doesnt. i also noticed which i assume is a correlation is that when i cold start, the throttle is way more responsive. and then when the engine area warms up/after 5 mins the throttle isnt that much responsive. i assume thats attributed because when engine is cold, engine area is cold, meaning air is cold into the filter. I know that there are a bunch of crevices/nooks/crannies but i feel like i can easily insulate that with some type of spray foam insulation kinda like waht people use when they instlal a window air conditioner? any tips or ideas on what to do? i would prefer the lid to have a hinge or something so the filter can be removed i dont want to goto the original airbox/air pipe cuz then i lose out on the bigger intake aaha even tho it wont make a noticeable diff and would have to buy a old airbox air pipe and new filter
  10. hello, i will be changing my diff fluid soon however the only place i can do it has a slight decline. my truck is high enough so i can easily remove the fill and drain plugs by just sliding over and i dont have a jack rn to level out the truck. is this something to worry about or is it fine? with my calculation in my head, it seems like if the diff is on a slight decline it will take slightly more fluid compared to a diff that is level. thanks!
  11. thanks for the reply! do you know if the real seal is indeed made of teflon for gm engines in which it cant be "bettered" by a stop leak product?
  12. for a 6.0l v8 LQ4 engine, with 250,000 km on it. there seems to be a rear main seal leak or oil pan gasket leak and its been like this for about a year. when the weather was colder, it seemed to only leak about 0.5 quart over 6000 km of driving. well now summer came and i think this made it worse but i noticed it leaked about a quart over 5000 km's. every morning it has a small puddle/everytime i drive and park for a few hours. so how bad can it get? like can it rip and blow at any moment or lilke am i good? because i am parking the vehicle in like 6 months so i just need it reliable till then ahah thanks
  13. hey guys! i was thinking of running redline or amsoil 75w90 in my diff but the more i read, it seems like people are saying conventional is better. any diff builders or people who have spoke to diff builders here to comment on this? here is a link for a reading: https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/files/PDF Files/ecgs-gear-oil-recommendation1.pdf
  14. hey guys! in my truck i purchased a new ac delco battery with 42 month free replacement warranty in the end of 2014 because my old battery was out of warranty i assume. in early 2018, this ac delco 79pg battery stopped working and i took it to the gm dealership and they replaced it under the 42 month free replacement warranty with another ac delco 79pg battery. now in 2020, the warranty battery stopped holding a charge and i took it in and they tested it and it failed on the spot. but they said they cant warranty it since the warranty starts for the original battery which was in 2014. is this true? or are they trying to get away with it? in my opinion since the 2018 battery is the exact same battery and has 42 month warranty, it should have warranty starting from 2018 because thats when it was installed. i was thinking of just taking it to a different dealership and and not giving my vin and hopefully they just base it off of the date code stamped on the battery? any tips on if i am eligible for a replacement an easier way? thanks
  15. it has 240,000 km on it, when i changed the fluid the old fluid was still red and smelled fine. i did a pan drop 5-6 years ago so it kept the fluid fresh! i heard when you do the cooler excahnge method which is what i did, air can get stuck in the system which causes the level to lower until all the air is out, but ive added 1/4 quart about 5 times over the past 2 weeks but i cant find any leaks. i parked the truck in the garage while i did oil change and some other work and nothing, bot even a drip. i checked the cooler line area and it was clean too.. can it honestly be that much air? what i also noticed is the level never dips below the "cold" mark on the dipstick, i always check when the tranny is hot but when it does lower its always showing on the dipstick. thanks!
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