does it even try? also check the VLOM bolts might sure they are nice and snug(sometimes they roll out loose from the factory) there was electrical changes for the 2010 model that is why they have VVT (way better emissions output compared to non vvt models)(NO2) that is why you buy the computer and harness
Clean the A/C condenser that is the solution to your overheating problem ..... bet its clogged with varies insects be gentile I use a toothbrush and dawn dish soap(just a drop is good enough) in a squirt bottle distilled water is preferred if you don't want deposits left behind I can stick my hand through the grille though but you can remove yours though I clean mine every 6 months can't risk overheating an aluminum block..anyways my A/C gets cold quickly with in 15 seconds it's all ready blowing cold air Remote start by the time i get inside it's all ready cooled off..
chevron has techron D for iesel so yeah you can get TOP tier iesel fuel sorry my button does not work sometimes i have light weight tires 31 pounds ea on the drive wheels less mass to rotate (the more mass= rotational drag, the more drag it has/ more fuel it uses ) also the tires are pumped to 44psi that by it self is worth 10% gain in MPG for free
i only run mobil or chevron they must pay the delivery man a bit more to pay attention i had bad luck getting only 87 octane out of the 91 pumps at Shell, Arco stations (tested at lest a 1/2 dozen stations issues with AFM running 87 octane (will hyper loop on and off with 87 octane) MPG drops to 18.5MPG I can actually accelerate with AFM v4 starting from first gear with 91octane I can get upto 31.2MPG with 91 octane on the highway assuming everything is working in perfect harmony 26-29MPG on the highway is typical for me while running normal speeds 75MPH ... it might have something to do with the traffic I get better MPG when there is more traffic as 40-45MPH is the sweet spot (it's not safe to drive this speed with very little traffic) that is when i get bigger numbers MPG wise in the city it's been less as i have been running the AC (Rather use a bit of gas then cook inside the suv) in the winter my mpg is better 22-23range
Could be the MAF sensor they fail often mine would sit there and revv FULL throttle in drive gear(without pressing the gas aka Engine run away) by it self but not move an inch (back fired a few times when starting) only way to know for sure is to look at the live data no issue with the transmission as everything is great again with a new MAF/IAT sensor
MAF or IAT sensor is bad more then likely common failure on the NBS and NNBS I had to replace mine(IAT was bad I had the combo version) as it would backfire on start up,full throttle and/or oscillate idle rough idle(misfire on idle) randomly
yeah even if that was from the timing chain NOTHING would happen nor any damage to the engine as this is a Non-interference engine the heads have a notch cut out for the valves dealers are playing you saying other stuff is damaged the only way to know for sure is to crack open the engine P0016 cam to crank misalignment I highly doubt the CAM went out these are of much higher quality then what you get on a normal rig it's very specifically designed for Heavy Duty usage i.e auto stop.. and HIGH SPEED starts remember these rigs are started by a 60kw motor not a 12volt starter that start speed can be about 1500 to 2,000 rpm from auto stop these rigs have HIGH performance corvette oil pumps in them not the "normal ones" P0016 Malfunction criteria: 2 cam sensor pulse more then 11 crank degrees before or 11 crank degrees after nominal position in one cam revolution . a the phaser sensor is broken or slow /broken bad wires or it skipped a few teeth also with the P0106 it could be the MAP sensor or MAF/IAT (mine was the MAF/ IAT when i got that code) there is no real risk with the HV unless you are messing with the HV battery, HV wires or inverter just pull the HV disconnect switch and keep it on your person so no one can energize the system..
I think it happens because of dirty oil( sludge sticking to the tube) and the oring is a path of least resistance it's like a straw that has a tiny hole instead of picking up soda you get a lot of air mixed with soda
you will need an entire swap out from a donor truck including the A/C wires computers it's going to be a lot of work i bet there is nothing wrong these can last i have seen one with 290k miles.. and there is plenty with 200k+ on them use 91 or 93 octane fuel from mobil/exxon or chevron/texaco also i would check the battery cables they are probably dirty as well there is several of them if you not getting at lest 14.8-14.9 volts on cold start, you will have issues \ i would also inspect the cable from the engine block to the chassis it may have fraying or dirtyness also inspect the terminals for crimp damage or opening up damage You can do a Hemi 5.7L swap as well must be a version from the hybrid model.
WRONG the Issue is GLASS will break from the heat or from the hot glass touching cold water or hot water touching cold glass(less likely to break but can happen) it's called thermal shock.. there can also be scratches that cause it to "explode " the truck has laminated glass that is why it did not go everywhere.. don't forget GM is known for cars catching fire and parts flying off of them i guess in this case it's parts flying off of it.... this sums it up
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