bg1988

Ground wires if you hatched opened sounds like power was applied to it.. or power was rerouted tripping the sensor check all the ground wires ...

I ran her at 2500 rpms 70-72mph the fuel trims were almost spot on at 3.5+ even went down to 0 a few times maybe it just needed an italian tune up ?

what fuel do you get? i.e brand

thats too bad i can see a lot of people doing illegal hookups to get that "0.025" rate on non car charging

La DWP Electric Vehicle Incentives (ladwp.com) Option 3: Separate EV TOU Meter Service and EV Discount Customers can request an installation of a second meter in their residence or business solely dedicated to the EV charger that will be billed on the Time-of-Use Rate. This option requires a meter change and does qualify for the EV discount rate. The EV discount is $0.025 per kwh and applies to base period charges. There is a $10 per month minimum charge plus adjustment factors (if your energy charges, which do not include adjustment factor charges, are less than $10, the energy charge will be billed the minimum $10). For more information, visit the EV / NEM / REO Rates page.

this is not the first elertic pick up truck GM had the S10e in the 1990s they made 492 on them

Car charging is heavily subsidized it's only 0.02/kwh under the condition the power co gets to have it back for free when the grid needs it

the tahoe/silverado/yukon**/escalade* hybrid is only rated to (6000/6100/6200/5600pounds)pounds towing.... despite having more power then the 5.3L engine... this is mostly due to the gear ratio at the rear end 3.08 most likely

the MAF data would be nice too... besides the map data but the odds are HIGHLY stacked that it's the MAF sensor... I have a brand new sensor i;ll see where they should be at i.e 600 rpm 1100 rpm and 2000 , 2500 rpm (not any higher as i don't want to "keep accelerating " as the engine is geared way differently to other 6.0s) between 1200 and 2500 it will be at 20 to 40 g/s(more if accelerating less if steady speed)

good to know mine has one 6.0L 1500 series

MAF/IAT sensors are notorious for failures on the GMT800 i would ask a friend to borrow one How to Fix a Car that Cranks Too Long (Mass Air Flow Sensor) - YouTube the "key on" data should match the baro sensor (the other map sensor)...these are two different sensors btw(i learned that the hard way) the Baro MAP(located under the throttle body*) is a open air sensor and the MAP is on top of the intake manifold* *may vary

i see, I going to try and reset the seal on the throttle body ( clean it ) and MAP sensor.. i'll try the map sensor first then the I also check the bolts for the intake manifold. they could have been sabotaged by that last place i had taken it to... they also messed with the PVC valve also do you think it could be the use of 91 octane? causing the higher fuel trims ? The timing advancement is in the 38 to 42 range while driving..... I checked my fuelly MPG it says i averaged 23.9mpg(100% City only) over 283 miles.. (11.838 gallons fuel used) this is since march 1st....(Yes everything is super far and i'm glad i can go 70mph on the surface streets)..I have not had any issues with the engine misfiring on start up( I have been Holding the key in the start position for an extra second) this should not hurt the starter motor in anyway... as that motor is designed to move the whole SUV anyways

i checked with water i did not hear any slurping noises. I did notice this abnormality with the sensor #2 under idle condition and while driving at 1200 rpm both O2 down stream #2 sensors dropped to voltage 0.165 then went back to 0.75-0.765 ish it did it multiple times at certain engine speeds(keeping in mind it has aggressive Deceleration fuel cut off ) so there is no way to know for sure with out something that can see that data also while it was running both downstream sensors dropped to 0.165 (with the Engine on at 1050 rpm) M4-Gear at 8mph.. it seemed like a Deceleration fuel cut off event (as noted by the instant mpg reading showed 99MPG )but was steady speed.. of 1050 rpm I did tighten up the connection at the throttle body ( the plastic tube ) it did help slightly in the single digits mostly 6-8 . with some peaks at 10. should i try and reset the connection tube?

it was recalled due to low voltage low voltage can overheat wires easy GM Recalls Trucks, SUVs for Steering Problem - Consumer Reports maybe you should have your battery load tested that would be a good place to start... also don't forget to file a complaint with the NHTSA

can a dirty air filter cause high fuel trim i.e air restriction it's been awhile since the filter was changed 15k miles ago or so this is a LEV2 emissions system . also i think the O2 sensor(s) might be lazy as i noticed the sensor 2 creep up while it was running also the values between the banks don't match (sensor #2) (slowly creep up tell it matched) the other was 0.785 steady (i'll have to confirm) the values on sensor one were changing like normal..

2008 chevy tahoe 6.0L the fuel trim is good tell it drops to 43psi from 58 psi... that is when it starts dumping fuel into the engine and CAT 520C to 560C it should be at 350C-380C or so... this is a known good configuration could it be a restriction in the air filter?? maybe a few leaves got sucked up>? I read online a Vacuum leak causes "low or negative long term fuel trims" 88666 was the last time i replaced the Air filter(according to my fuelly log) currently has 103700 i want to figure it out before I drop a grand or two throwing random parts at it..

Honestly Don't they have RECALLED batteries that GM refuses to deal with.. that is why ...

the power steering is weak on the 12volt system it was not working because it overheated (self resetting thermal fuse)

a fuel trim read of 34 or if it is above 550C (1000f+) will set a catalyst code

43.51PSI With engine ok 77.45 PSI or 534 KPa Was the peak in auto stop (slowly rose) the suddenly drops to 43.51 PSI when the engine starts for like 10 seconds 58.01PSI on a cold start then went down to 43.51PSI Also MPG decreased typically 20MPG to 12MPG High fuel trims (LTFT) 10.9 on average at 1150rpm @ 35mph... STFT is ± 3 from 0 I switched back to my normal MAF it has fixed the cold start stumble.. No misfires Catalytic converter is reaching 500-550C while driving Normally this is about 350-390C....

check the temperature of the cats, when mine was broken the temp is 200c a working one will be over 300C to 800C get one of those cheap IR things and point it at the cat..... most likely the CAT is poisoned with oil...

injector? maybe you need fuel spark and compression to make the fire

you need the new sensor first then you can remotely read the temp with a live data reader it's like 50$ at walmart you need to make sure the sensor is moving i have the AL329 it works with GM trucks the O2 sensors is listed as while reading live data check once it's warmed up (i.e drive around) Bank 1 = O2B1S1 (sensor 1) This one should change , O2B1S2(sensor 2) this should be steady (might move slightly ) Bank 2 = O2B2S1 (sensor 1) This one should change , O2B2S2(sensor 2) this should be steady (might move slightly ) the CAT_temp will read in C most likely I made a video awhile back of it OBD2 data CAT temp and O2 sensors - YouTube Don't worry I did not waste any gas it was charging up the hybrid battery and 12v battery....

thanks i have gotten the codes on a GM OBD2 both 2003 and 2008(LEV2 3way cat) models it says bank1 and bank 2 (it will register 2 identical codes for both p0420/p0430 besides the "bank number" being different 4 codes total.. ) the only way to fully confirm it's faulty is to get a live data scanner and Confirm the operating temperature of the converter and if the sensor values are changing and not following... but since he did get a different code above that would have to be fixed first. before the data can be verified there is no point in paying BIG money for nothing.. also he should verify the warranty status . since Fed warranty is 8yr/80k.... which means 2021 is the last year ... there is also a small chance that the warranty could have been illegally punched as well...

If your still on 5w30 you should switch to 0w30 oil esp since it's cold weather my lifters were pretty noisy now they're much quieter with 0w30 upon start up I'm also using the new SP/ILSAC GF-6A Rated oil GM Dexos gen 2 certified I thought about using motorKote