Jump to content

Ezekiel2517

Member
  • Content Count

    287
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

47 Good

About Ezekiel2517

  • Rank
    Ezekiel2517

Profile Information

  • Location
    Array
  • Gender
    Array
  • Drives
    Array

Recent Profile Visitors

6,837 profile views
  1. Just and FYI, I noticed on Rough Country's website that they changed the instructions on their 3" kit today. I called them and they confirmed that they changed the kit. They got rid of rear crossmember mods, but added a preload spacer. Essentially it is the exact same kit as the Superlift kit now. I think I would go with the superlift as it comes with real billstein 5100s for the rear and costs less.
  2. Looks great. Just curious. When folks are going with 305s and aftermarket wheels, why not do a 20x10 wheel? Wouldnt you need less backspacing then? If seen several 305s on aftermarkets and they are all 9" wheels.
  3. i didnt even know they were an option. I have an LTZ but dont think I have them. I never really used them in m 2014 SLT
  4. In my seemingly eternal quest for info to determine what level or lift would be best for me, I took some jacks and lifted my front and rear to different heights to experiment. I wish I had done it out in the driveway to get better pics, but I wanted to share what I found. My truck is a max trailering 4x4 LTZ. Stock it sits 38.75 Rear and 37.75 Front. Not that much rake. Not near as bad as the K2s. I evaluated the following combos: 1" Rear, 2.0 Front 2" Rear, 2.0 Front (Trailboss lift height) 2" Rear, 2.5 Front My ultimate goal with this rig is to look mroe aggressive than stock, but to not ruin its towing ability since I specifically bought it for the 6.2 Max trailering package. That means keeps tires close to stock OD and keeping some rake, although I plan to add bags to keep the rear in check anyway. I cant stand a squatted truck, even when towing. I think the 2" rear 2.5" front looks pretty good. And a 2" rear block is easier to find. And I can get specific Air Lift bags made for the 2" extra height of a trailboss. That leaves me with about 3/4" rake in the front. Honestly, it doesnt look too bad even with the 275/60R20s. If they were such wussy tires they might be okay. I also did some looking at clearances as I am considering swapping the 275/60R20 (33" OD) to 305/55r20s (33.25" OD). 305s should stick out more by 15mm each side. That amounts to 9/16 extra pudge on each side. From the looks of the photos there should be easily enough space to clear the sway bar, control arm and fender well. I guess the swaybar and fender clearance would change in dynamic conditions so it is still not a perfect evaluation. But if this helps anyone I wanted to pass it along.
  5. What is the wheel size and offset? 20x9 I assume since tires look like 275/60r20. What made you decide to take them off? They are good looking wheels.
  6. So 295 is as wide as I've seen on stock rims. Do you think you could have fit a 305? That's only 10mm total wider so 5mm more inside. That's about .2 inches. Not much. But every mm matters here. I've seen on the K2s that folks ran 305/55r20 with a .25" backspacer. That would offset it to about what you have so that makes sense. I'm interested in the 305/55r20 because they come in lighter p rated tires, look aggressively wide, but arent too much bigger diameter than stock.
  7. I just called Allied Powder Coating here in Houston. They said that if I took them i the bare bumpers the front would cost $190-375 and the rear would be $190. The differences in price for the front was largely due to aftermarket bumpers with included grill guards, so I am guessing I would be on the low end of the cost. They said they sandblast them down to bare metal before prepping for paint. This was for any stock color, but not necessarily a color match. I may go look to see what they have. Even if I did black like a Trailboss, $400 is not bad and it would even be better than the black paint on a trailboss for durability. I wonder how black chrome would look. Or to do it in the color of the inserts on the RST wheels I had them swap for. Then I could leave some chrome and it would tie in with the wheels but not be overwhelming.
  8. Interesting theory. Best I heard so far at least. I suspect that weight of the lower spacer is negligible, but it is still a much higher percentage of mass than what it would be added to the frame.
  9. I almost jumped ship to RAM. I test drove one and loved the interior. Very nice. Blows away GM. The 8 speed was nice. But I just couldnt trust it for reliability like my I do my new Chevy. When the dealer started it up, first thing you hear is tick tick tick - not a normal sound either. The Hemi with the etorque did have some good power. I think my 6.2 can take it though. I didnt like how the etorque would feel like it was downshifting to stop every time you braked. Also the exterior is just butt ugly now. I have seen a couple that look decent, but it is totally style-less, kinda like the GMT800s were.
  10. I would like to de-chome my Shadow grey LTZ. I've looked into different options for the bumpers as they seem the hardest to do right. I might wrap the grill, but I dont wanna do that to the bumper as I cant see that lasting very long. Their is a shop here in south Houston that will do color matched Kevlar for $650 if I take in the bumpers off my truck. I looked into Line-x and the linex Ultra seems pretty cool, but black would run me 700 and color would be $900. The ultra is pretty smooth, not nearly as rough as the regular stuff. Black LineX premium would be 500, but then it just looks like plain old bed liner. Color matched is 750. Black might be the easiest to touch up if it ever gets damaged. I dont know much about powdercoating yet. Still looking into that one. Not sure if they can factory color match or not. I know none of these will be 100% perfect match since its a metallic color. Anyone have any suggestions on how to do this so it looks decent and doesnt break the bank? My absolute preference would just be to find someone to trade, but that seems like a longshot. Thanks!
  11. I ordered those same mirror extensions from JEGS. they said they had them in stock. Then it instantly went to back order with no ETA. I think everyone is in the same boat. BTW JEGs is only $53.
  12. I saw that folks on the K2 forum did it. Usually they needed a 0.25" spacer to make it work. All needed significant leveling. I think that with these T1s you can fit a lot more tire with a lot less lift than the K2s. I have a feeling it could be made to work. Im curious what mounting a 305/55/20 on a 9" rim does to its overall height. Does it make it taller since it is squeezing it? Or shorter or no effect?
  13. I had a 1.5" lower on my 2014 for a few months and it rode rough. But I think it was the Billstein 4600 HD shocks I added to it that made it that way. After I put 5100s on and got rid of the spacer it was like a luxury car. The top would be a little more work, agreed. But it was pretty easy to remove the strut assembly to add it.
  14. Where can you order painted mirror caps? I have not found that online. Update: Nevermind, I found them. https://www.shopchevyparts.com/exterior/2019-silverado-1500-rearview-mirror-covers-shadow-gray-metallic-outside-set-two/84469253-p-92300707.html Now if I could find painted door handles
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.