It sounds like you have got something hooked to a keyed hot wire that should be hooked to a battery hot and it is back feeding through keeping your engine running. I would carefully retrace the wiring and double check everything. Possibly the Hopkins unit itself is bad. After you confirm the wiring is good maybe swap units temporarily with someone who has a like unit. Also have you tried unhooking the wire from the stud to see what happens or even one wire at a time going to the unit, until you find which one is causing the problem. On the GMT800 trucks there is also a blue wire that needs to be connected at the under hood fuse box. I've not had any experience with the 900's yet. I'm in to see what you find.
I have seen flashers go bad and nothing works, but I'm not sure if your truck uses flashers. Later models flashed through the BCM. I'm just saying it might be worth while to check to see if your truck uses them. When you unplug the flasher, check make sure you have battery voltage on one of the terminals with the key on. If so the signals should work if the flasher is good. If no voltage, check fuses. The 4 way flasher will be easy to find, if equipped, just listen under the dash with it flashing and feel around until you find it. Maybe someone else on here knows for sure if 95 models used flashers or not. I would check fuses and see if I had flashers before I ordered a switch.
Your truck may still use actual turn signal flashers. It sounds like the one for the signal lights might be bad, if equipped. It also could be a blown fuse. Turn on the 4 ways and feel around under the dash for the flasher, it may be in the corner of the fuse panel, its about the size 6 quarters in a stack. When you find that one swap it with the other one under there and see if the signals work. If its not located in the other corner of the under dash fuse panel it may be in a clip fastened under the dash somewhere. Good luck.
I'm following this as I am wondering what all would be involved in this day of bcm's, seat control modules, door modules, cans, etc. My thinking is you would need a complete 03-06 pickup and switch over everything and a scan tool to match vin. Or go old school and find power seats from an older gm luxery car before the modern era of computer control modules that has the switches built into the seat itself. I'm in no way an expert so take my comments as a grain of salt, just thinking out loud and here to learn.
Sometimes it takes a long time for a code to set. If your fuel pressure checks out OK, you might try unhooking the MAF and driving it. That will set a code but the ECM will use preset parameters and if an improvement is seen in driveability the MAF may be throwing things off. Also with a Tech or Supertech type scanner you could continuous monitor and take a big look at things. I had one recently acting similar to yours and it was the MAF. It took forever to finally set a code.
I would check the ground for the left rear light first. Remove the light assembly and follow the black wire coming from the light socket and make sure of the connection. Also you can do a test for the ground by using a 12V test light. Connect the alligator clip to a good ground on the truck and with the signal light on, touch the tip of the test light to the brass portion of the bulb base that's sticking up out of the socket. If the test light blinks then the bulb is trying to ground through the test light because the existing ground is not functional. If the test light stays off then your ground is good. I have also seen the socket itself cause this or even a defective bulb. I'm sure after you tinker with it some you will have it figured out. One troubleshooting tip I use is that I pretend the bcm or ecm or any other modules are not there and just check for power and grounds and 99% of the time you are successful.
DareDog, sorry to hear that! Sometimes your the windshield and sometimes your the bug. I've been nursing the 4L60E in my 99 for several years now. I haven't experienced a shutter but it doesn't want to shift on the coldest mornings.
You would just have 12V there, supplied by two different sources. In theory your circuit should work. You will also get a small voltage drop (about .7V) across the diode when it is on and even less drop when voltage is passing through two of them in a parallel circuit, as would be your scenario if dome and dash lights were both feeding the step lights.
I would do a pan drop service, verses a flush machine type, and refill with the recommended fluid and the additive of your choice. If the truck sits overnight before you drop the pan you will usually get more fluid to drain out, due to some fluid draining out of the torque converter while it was sitting. From my experience you may buy yourself some time before having to do an overhaul. Be advised if you pick an additive that thickens the fluid, such as Lucas, it may be too thick for the upcoming winter. I have seen it used and the first shift be delayed or not happen until the fluid warmed up. Something like Trans-X will not thicken the fluid but may condition the TCC seals enough to end the shutter for a while. Roll the dice and let us know what happens.
Hey Michael, When my brother moved back here to Virginia from Utah, I gave him a used Ford Ranger pickup as a gift. He really appreciated it and he has been driving it for 8 years now. So if you want to help your friend by giving him a truck, I would say go for it!
Hey Bill, Welcome to the forum, from a fellow GMT-800 owner and a fellow ham operator. I drilled holes in my roof for the antennas, but if and when ever replace this pickup I will probably acquire some sort of back rack and install the antennas on that.
With all the rain we've been having (at least here anyway) and the truck sitting, could water have leaked in somewhere and maybe got to the bcm or something. Maybe if you ever get it into the garage and it has a chance to dry out it might cure itself. My F-550 the radio would come on whenever the bcm got wet. With 2 batteries it never caused a problem and I would turn off the radio when I parked the truck if I thought about it.
If the rubber part doesn't want to come off, you can cut back on the plastic line an inch or so and have a sample of the size of the plastic line to show the parts guy. He will more than likely have something you can piece together and make it work. Also sometimes you can replace the entire assembly with a rubber hose. I don't want to guess the diameter of the hose but most places are likely to have something that will work.
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