Hey everyone,
So I wanted a way to defeat stabilitrak on my 2015 Silverado with a switch, but keep ABS and not light up the dash when you pull fuse #3... Hat tip to Bo Nitzsche on the idea to pull the steering wheel position sensor! See post here: https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/215830-stabilitrak/#comments
This got me thinking about a switchable solution. I didn't want to repeatedly plug and un-plug a sensor which would be such a PITA to replace if it broke. I also didn't want to cut my factory harness for a defeat switch. So, I instead made my own jumper harness! Behold:
Here it is in action, you can see that stabilitrak is gone while ABS is still functional! The dash isn't lit up at all, and it only shows two warnings. Traction control works just as normal via its switch.
In case you were wondering, here is all that was involved with building the harness...
Parts:
- Harness Connector: https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1-1241370-3.html
- Sensor Connector: https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-2-969682-1.html
- Receptacle Pin: https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-5-963715-1.html
Specialty Tools:
- Ideal Ratcheting Crimp Tool: https://idealind.com/shop/30-506.html
- Ideal Crimp Die: https://idealind.com/shop/30-586.html
Supplies:
- 22awg wire: https://www.grainger.com/search/electrical/wire-cable/automotive-wire-battery-cable?sst=1&ts_optout=true&searchQuery=22awg
- 22awg 6 conductor wire: https://www.pacergroup.net/unshielded-multi-conductor-cable-22-awg/
- 1/6", 3/32", 1/8" shrink wrap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073R69KNB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Switch: https://www.alliedelec.com/product/zf-electronics/srj22a3bbbnn/70207322/
- Soldering stuff
So the harness side connector has 6 pins, looks like this:
and it plugs into the steering position sensor here:
I got the part number from the connector and found it online, then verified it with the manufacturer that I found the right parts. Once I had the correct parts, I needed to be able to properly crimp the pins. I had to look at the spec sheet for the pin on the manufacturer's website to then find out the correct crimp type (F-type crimp).
Male connector side, the wires are crimped and inserted into the connector (don't judge my crimps, this was my first try):
Even with the correct type of crimp tool this was hard. The manufacturer specific tool was super expensive ($450), and the tool I picked was a little more generic. The crimps weren't always perfect, but I was able to get it to work by tinning the wires with some solder first. They passed the test pull weight spec with this method.
The female side connector was only available as a wire-to-board connector. I had to solder the wires to the exposed pins and shrink wrap over them.
Final product:
I decided to cut the black wire (pin 6) and wire the switch inline there. The circuit turned out to be sensitive to extra resistance. I tried using a switch (pictured above) i had lying around the garage, but it wouldn't work. I had to go with the ZF switch because it had the lowest internal resistance with the style switch I wanted.
Mounting the switch I wanted it to be sleek and unobtrusive, so I mounted it inside the under dash cubby. This is removed with three screws. (one inside on the front face and two below)The switch has a .787" mounting diameter, which is nothing you can find at the local hardware, so I went with a 3/4" hole and just reamed it out a little bit. The switch also has a little notch to prevent rotation that I cut into the plastic hole as well.
Incognito:
This method was definitely a bit more expensive and time consuming than others (~$300), but it is so convenient now to just switch off the fun police whenever I want and then go back to safety if I want to. There are way less drawbacks to this than pulling a fuse, I've had it unplugged for weeks before installing this switch.
I was thinking about making some of these for anyone since I have extra of everything and the tools. Let me know if there is interest!
Enjoy your new truck ?