I also have a 18 double cab (Z71). It came with 20" low profile SRA's. I took them off before the truck had 4k miles. I was pissed at myself for buying a truck with low profiles wheels, but they do look pretty. I now have the factory 17" rims on it. You're still using factory springs with factory wheel travel and an after market shock manufacturer has to work with those. Everything is a trade off. As someone posted already, it's hard to get a truck to ride the same empty and loaded. Just need to find the setup where the trade offs least effect you and how you use your truck. But if you only change the shocks, it limits what the end result can be. I don't mind the stiffer ride from 5100's for the benefits I get. I usually have 3-400 lbs of stuff in the bed too. I didn't like the ride from the factory, it didn't work for me where I drive. I don't want to spend the money on new springs so I made due with the springs I have. Made sense for me. But I'm on the second from top setting and I'm not using BFG KO's either. I run Mickey Thompson ATZ P3's in the same size you are. I think they ride better on the highway than the low profile SRA's I had before, they were hard. What air pressure you running? With my regular load I'm usually at around 40psi with the ATZs. I just had the tires rotated and with over 11k miles they said there wasn't enough wear to measure. So I'm staying with 40. I ran BFG AT's (pre KO) for many years. I never ran them at the factory recommend pressure because of the stiff ride. I had them on a full size Cherokee and usually ran 33-35 psi.
In other words, another piss poor design that made it to production. Instead of fixing the design, they cut a hole in the floor mat. Them engineers are real geniuses. I think it would be better to have no floor mat at all than to have one where water will get trapped underneath it. I replaced the drivers side mat with a weather tech and haven't had any problems. I have the adjustable pedals but I never adjust them. They are adjusted to just above the bottom because that seemed to be the best place due to the flex problem. At that setting the gas pedal travel ends just before it touches the floor mat. If I put the pedals all the way to the bottom the gas pedal touches the floor mat just as it comes to the end of the travel. That's probably why they cut the floor mat out.
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It's more a bug than a feature (same thing to a salesman), but if you put a folder with various artists on a USB stick and browse it, all of the songs in the various artists folder will be broken out into their own folders. So if you have 1 folder with 15 different artists on the USB stick, you will see 15 folders with one song in each one when browsing it. But my truck is possessed so YMMV. I haven't seen any settings to change how the folders are displayed. Not a big deal but it kind of sucks.
I have 5100's and I went with the third ring. Per Bilstein it gives 1.26” (32mm) average lift. I didn't measure it. I'm running a 285/70/17 tire, which are a little bit bigger than the 20" tires it came with but not big enough to cause issues. As far as 4600 vs 5100 goes. I've also read that they are valved the same. I don't have an apples to apples comparison, but I have a lifted Jeep with OME springs and 4600 shocks, and the truck with stock springs and 5100's. Between those two the Jeep is definitely softer. But that's not a good comparison. So beats the hell out of me, but that's the first I've heard anyone saying the 4600s are stiffer. If you don't care about lifting the front there are other options besides Bilstein. I went with them because I wanted to lift the front some and didn't want to use spacers. I went with Bilsteins on the Jeep because I didn't want to spend twice the price on OME shocks which have mixed reviews on longevity.
I'm not a salesman. Call Bilstein, I'm sure they would be happy to explain it to you. A common statement on the forums, which I have done too, is to say they are "shot" or however you want to describe it. The shocks I took of weren't technically "shot" or worn out, they performed just like they did from the factory, they only had 4k miles on them. They just didn't work for me so I replaced them. If you're happy with your shocks, and it appears you are, why waist your time here? Go do something else.
Unless you are driving in laboratory conditions I would use the severe duty maintenance schedule. The only difference I see between normal and severe schedules are the transfer case fluid changes. Normal <8600lb 97.5k miles >8600lb 45k miles Severe <8600lb 45k miles >8600lb 22.5k miles
The compression and rebound damping rates. You're welcome. damp. · ing. (dăm′pĭng) The gradual reduction of excessive oscillation, vibration, or signal intensity, and therefore of instability in a mechanical or electrical device, by a substance or some aspect of the device.
My "armchair" is the drivers seat. If Bilstein made an inferior model to sell to the truck manufacturers like Rancho did, then I agree, it would be very likely they would be getting replaced as well. I've had Rancho RS5000's before. I was actually very happy when I saw that the truck came with Rancho shocks and thought I would not have to replace them. The Rancho 5000's I previously owned I put over 200k miles on and was happy with them. I drove this new truck for about 4k miles before changing these out (about 3k miles past due). I proved they are not suitable for me and are not like the previous Ranchos I owned. The rebound damping is just about non-existent. These are nowhere near the quality of the RS5000's I had before. It wasn't because they were OEM, I really didn't want to spend the money changing shocks on a brand new truck with 4k miles, it was because they SUCKED. If you like them, good for you, I wish I did. Depending on how and where people drive, some people won't notice the benefits of any after market shock. No matter what type or brand.
It appears the OP has bought their tires but other people are still looking. Mickey Thompson ATZ P3 - The best AT tire on the market today. It has handled everything I have drove through with ease. Deep snow, rain (absolutely no hydroplaning), rocky passes, deep sand and deep mud. Those Deegans look pretty nice too for a more street oriented AT. But I want a 3 ply sidewall, MPG's be dammed. Just a couple weeks ago I went off road to a claim. I didn't think I would make it but tried anyway and I made it with no problems. I went easily through mud I would have even never tried with any other tire I have ever owned. When I was through the worst of it, I stopped to take a break. I opened the door and after looking at the ground decided I wasn't going to get out there. I put it in gear and tried to drive off, but the back tires already sank in. I was watching the rear tires and to my surprise, I started slowly backing out. I glanced at the dash and noticed I wasn't in 4WD, it didn't look bad when I pulled over so I was still in 2wd. I put it in 4wd and backed out with no problems. I've been stuck in 4wd in two inches of mud with the original BFG AT's. I would have turned around if that is what I had on my truck, I wouldn't have even tried. I also went straight to the car wash and spent $18 trying to get that crap out of the wheel wells. The bottom of my truck still has a couple inches of dried mud over everything. It sucks.
If you live in a colder climate, check out Cooper ATW. They have great reviews on line. Just put a set on a trailblazer (235/75 16) for $445 out the door from a local shop. But I don't have any miles on them yet so I can't give a review.
Interesting. I never get flashed and I have the LED's and I think my lights are too high. If you are "being flashed so often", your headlights are not aimed correctly. "Hitting them back on a seconds notice"? So not only are you already blinding the person coming AT YOU, you turn your high beams on to show them who's boss. Great idea. Don't take into consideration that the other person is just trying to see the road ,and unless they are flashing everybody on the highway, your headlights are the problem. And due to "being flashed so often", apparently more than one driver thinks so.
Nice truck. I'm not going judge what someone does in another country. If I lived in Mexico I would setup something very similar. A car? Not much good if you need to go off road, and I would always like for that to be a possibility. But with the work you've done on your truck, a high performance drive shaft would seem like a good investment to keep it going, especially if you ever HAVE to run extended periods at high speed. People need to realize that other countries are different. Writing speeding tickets is a big money maker in the US, other countries may not care about speeding as much. I was in Spain a few years back and people haul ass there. We were going down one of the highways and came up fast on a cop. We thought we were done, a ticket for sure, maybe even jail in a foreign country. But then the cop pulls over and lets us by. I asked one of the guys I was working with if they ever gave out speeding tickets. He said no, not really, but they will give you a ticket for having your stereo too loud. Different priorities.
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