acinquegrana

I have a readylift 2.25 with the UCA in my 2016. I only have 21k miles on it and the ball joints already have tons of play. I have not been able to find a MOOG direct replacement. Readylift if sending me new ones for free but i mean.... id hate to put them in and change them again at 65k miles. MOOG K6540 fits but the taper is too small. I would need sleeves... sigh. Have any of you had luck with other brand control arms? I don't mind spending the extra money if it means not changing ball joints every 20k. Thanks Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I did 275 65 20 on a 2.25 level on mine. Used a diablo tuner to recalibrate. Dealer won't touch that stuff probably because in theory it could be considered tampering with the odometer if calibrated wrong lol. Idk the actual reason but just an assumption. Likely GM wouldn't honor a warranty. I had 285 45 22 and they sucked. Looked pretty, but thats all. I was furious after I curbed one due to a sun glare... couldn't see the damn curb. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

One other warning. If you use fluid film or woolwax, it will soften up the GM coating. That's a good thing in my opinion since it penetrates through and no way for water/salt to get behind the coating. Stick with woolwax it firms up a little better than fluid film does. Much thicker. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I use that stuff. Works good. I use that and a combo of fluid film (or recently woolwax which i like better). I dont recommend por 15. Its just a headache. Needs to be done perfectly or it just gets worse. Woolwax offers black too so thats a perfect combo. With the woolwax you just remove heavy flakes and cover the light rust. It neutralizes it. The wax coating on the GM frames is junk. If you dont cover it in fluid film or woolwax from new.. you are fighting and uphill battle. See pics of my 2016 thats driven in New England since new. 45k miles. I have been undercoating since i got it. ZERO rust. And for the frame plugs... Don't do that. Water can still get in through the little holes at the bottom of the cross members and needs to drain out the sides. You want airflow through there. Just load it with woolwax/fluid film and you're good. You can take the rocker panel plugs out too and do them and shoot it up into the doors. What i do is: Noxrust. Let it dry for a day. Then, cover the entire undercarriage with fluid film / woolwax. The only down side is a mess when you work on it but I don't mind. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

A friend of mine has a 2017 sierra 1500 and wants to get blacked out badges. Rather not paint the OEM ones. Are there OEM ones available and are the parts from the 1500 and 2500 interchangeable for the grille? He found a set on ebay that are sharp for a 2500 but unsure if they will fit. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I just kit 45k and want to do a trans fluid / filter change. I checked my dip stick and the first wipe was black. Checked it after and its light pink. Firet time I really checked it since owning at 10k miles. I have the diablo tune. I think i want to turn off torque management.. Not sure tho. Service manual only says to change it at 45k for severe use. I tow my 900lb atv once every few weeks. And I have 34" tires. Otherwise thats all. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Anyone run the rancho rs9000 quick lift? I have the readylift 2.25 now but want to upgrade the shocks and figure its better to have less spacers. To make up for the .25 i found a 1/2" spacer that goes ontop of the coils for $19. Steel. I could go with the oem rs9000 struts but for the same price I can just get the coils and not need a spring compressor. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

May be a dumb question... but... These transmissions were designed to run at 190-220ish degrees. The tolerances open up when it heats up and allows the fluid to lubricate everything. If it is colder the tolerances are tighter and would create premature wear. Right? Similar to getting an engine warm so you don't cold seize it. I am no transmission expert. Right now I am debating changing my own fluid and filter. I have warched the YouTube vids with the Y pipe in the way (sigh). Almost at 45k miles. I drove up mount Washington a few weeks ago and got the trans up to 230. I was a little nervous lol. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

It's the leaf springs. Trust me. I know. Drove me up a f****** wall. Started on my truck at 10k miles. I noticed my center leaf was crooked. Checked further and noticed my u bolts weren't exactly tight. I took the springs apart and installed an add a leaf with alignment clamps front and rear. Im at 43k now and the noise is back (i think its the shock extenders i just installed). Get under there with a little flat head screw driver or pry bar and separate the leafs and load them with grease. I can almost bet the sound will go away (for a little while). The root cause of this problem is there is only one alignment clamp at the front of the spring pack and its not really tight so it allows the middle leaf to rotate a little. When i reassembled the springs i used fine thread u bolts from my local spring shop. They are less prone to come loose. It infuriated me that my springs were clunking.... the clunk i have now i am convinced its the extenders since it started just after putting them in. Let me know how you make out. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Im running 275 65 20 duratracs on +28 wheels (2019+) and no rub only because i tack welded steering stops to the lower control arms. Lost a tiny bit of turning radius but thats fine for me. Only had to trim the corners of my aftermarket mud flaps. Everything else on the truck is fine. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

More pics. Pardon the excessive fluid film on the control arms lol. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Finally bit the bullet and got wheelsand tires. My 2016 Silverado 1500 Rally 2LT with ready lift 2.25 and UCA and Zone add leafs. I went with 2019 GMC Sierra SLT replica wheels in gloss black and LT275 65 R20 Duratracs. Upgrading from 285 45 22 bridgestone duellers. What a difference. You would never know these are a 10 ply tire. Great ride. To prevent UCA rub, I fabricated some steering stops and tack welded them to the lower control arm. I made them over size and then ground them down to a perfect fit. Lost 6 degrees of turning radius as indicated on the dash, but i dont care about that. I rarely max out my steering. I did this so I didnt have to run a wheel spacer. Trimmed the corner of my mud flaps too. No rubbing at all Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

How did you make out? Any rubbing? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

For everyone that has had some time with LT285 55 22s (specifically terra grappler G2)... How do you like the ride quality? Is the 10 ply tire that drastic? How is the "seat of pants feel" for power loss from the heavier tire? Is the ABS sensitive over bumps? What tire pressures are you running? Also on a side note... Has anyone experienced rubber cracking with their nitto G2s? Only ask because I had a set of "G1s" from 2012 and the cracking was unreal. Sorry for the rant. Thanks! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

What kind of tires? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

My shake is hit or miss.... im 99% sure its the tires. I did the ready lift 2.25 level with a zone add-a-leaf and it looks and rides fantastic other than the intermittent shake. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I am still waiting to pull the trigger on a set of 285 55 22 G2's.... but before I do.. Have any of you experienced a slight thump under your feet when cornering at slow speeds? I am wondering if it is steering rack related. I am posting here since you all have larger tires. Looking to see if it has affected anyone else. I'm on a ready lift 2.25 front level with UCA, and zone add a leaf. Stock tires. Loving the ride. Perfect height all around with slight rake. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Any rub with that set up? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Thats good to know! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Do you have confirmation from bridgestone on the discount? Wonder if i could get one as well. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Wow 20% is sweet. I dont have any stores near me unfortunately. Here are pics of mine that I just took. Again.. only 3 yrs and 30k miles.. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Mine are doing the same exact thing but not that bad. Mine are on my 2016 rally 2 edition with 30k on it. Thinking of going with 285 55 22 nitto (g2 or ridge grappler). I have a 2.25 level. I am only hesitant because I have 2 sets of nitto terra grapplers "g1" tires that are about 7 yrs old and the cracking on them is NUTS. Nice tires but wow.. Wondering if chemicals in tire shine have anything to do with it. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Looks sweet. I assume you have some rubbing.. if so, where? Are you hitting upper control arm or sway bar? Or just the fender liner? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Also remember that when adding a level, it "pushes" the front suspension down, which actually brings the wheels in closer to the center of the truck, which makes it more prone to rubbing UCA, swaybar, and liner. My passenger tire rubs the UCA so slightly with stock 285's. Added .5" hubcentric spacers with extended thread lugs and all gone. I know most people cringe at the sound of wheel spacers, so did I. Never tried them other than my quads. So I tried them, and so far so good with about 3k miles on them zero issues. I do plan to go to the gmc all terrain 20's with 275 65 20 duratracs. I day dream about it. Hoping the 275 width won't rub, even then I wont mind running the spacers. I just like to keep my stuff as close to stock as possible without permanent mods.

Any rubbing? Fender liner rubbing is ok, just concerned about a arms and sway bar. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk