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acinquegrana

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About acinquegrana

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  1. I have a readylift 2.25 with the UCA in my 2016. I only have 21k miles on it and the ball joints already have tons of play. I have not been able to find a MOOG direct replacement. Readylift if sending me new ones for free but i mean.... id hate to put them in and change them again at 65k miles. MOOG K6540 fits but the taper is too small. I would need sleeves... sigh. Have any of you had luck with other brand control arms? I don't mind spending the extra money if it means not changing ball joints every 20k. Thanks Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  2. I did 275 65 20 on a 2.25 level on mine. Used a diablo tuner to recalibrate. Dealer won't touch that stuff probably because in theory it could be considered tampering with the odometer if calibrated wrong lol. Idk the actual reason but just an assumption. Likely GM wouldn't honor a warranty. I had 285 45 22 and they sucked. Looked pretty, but thats all. I was furious after I curbed one due to a sun glare... couldn't see the damn curb. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  3. One other warning. If you use fluid film or woolwax, it will soften up the GM coating. That's a good thing in my opinion since it penetrates through and no way for water/salt to get behind the coating. Stick with woolwax it firms up a little better than fluid film does. Much thicker. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  4. I use that stuff. Works good. I use that and a combo of fluid film (or recently woolwax which i like better). I dont recommend por 15. Its just a headache. Needs to be done perfectly or it just gets worse. Woolwax offers black too so thats a perfect combo. With the woolwax you just remove heavy flakes and cover the light rust. It neutralizes it. The wax coating on the GM frames is junk. If you dont cover it in fluid film or woolwax from new.. you are fighting and uphill battle. See pics of my 2016 thats driven in New England since new. 45k miles. I have been undercoating since i got it. ZERO rust. And for the frame plugs... Don't do that. Water can still get in through the little holes at the bottom of the cross members and needs to drain out the sides. You want airflow through there. Just load it with woolwax/fluid film and you're good. You can take the rocker panel plugs out too and do them and shoot it up into the doors. What i do is: Noxrust. Let it dry for a day. Then, cover the entire undercarriage with fluid film / woolwax. The only down side is a mess when you work on it but I don't mind. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  5. A friend of mine has a 2017 sierra 1500 and wants to get blacked out badges. Rather not paint the OEM ones. Are there OEM ones available and are the parts from the 1500 and 2500 interchangeable for the grille? He found a set on ebay that are sharp for a 2500 but unsure if they will fit. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  6. I just kit 45k and want to do a trans fluid / filter change. I checked my dip stick and the first wipe was black. Checked it after and its light pink. Firet time I really checked it since owning at 10k miles. I have the diablo tune. I think i want to turn off torque management.. Not sure tho. Service manual only says to change it at 45k for severe use. I tow my 900lb atv once every few weeks. And I have 34" tires. Otherwise thats all. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  7. Anyone run the rancho rs9000 quick lift? I have the readylift 2.25 now but want to upgrade the shocks and figure its better to have less spacers. To make up for the .25 i found a 1/2" spacer that goes ontop of the coils for $19. Steel. I could go with the oem rs9000 struts but for the same price I can just get the coils and not need a spring compressor. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  8. May be a dumb question... but... These transmissions were designed to run at 190-220ish degrees. The tolerances open up when it heats up and allows the fluid to lubricate everything. If it is colder the tolerances are tighter and would create premature wear. Right? Similar to getting an engine warm so you don't cold seize it. I am no transmission expert. Right now I am debating changing my own fluid and filter. I have warched the YouTube vids with the Y pipe in the way (sigh). Almost at 45k miles. I drove up mount Washington a few weeks ago and got the trans up to 230. I was a little nervous lol. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  9. It's the leaf springs. Trust me. I know. Drove me up a f****** wall. Started on my truck at 10k miles. I noticed my center leaf was crooked. Checked further and noticed my u bolts weren't exactly tight. I took the springs apart and installed an add a leaf with alignment clamps front and rear. Im at 43k now and the noise is back (i think its the shock extenders i just installed). Get under there with a little flat head screw driver or pry bar and separate the leafs and load them with grease. I can almost bet the sound will go away (for a little while). The root cause of this problem is there is only one alignment clamp at the front of the spring pack and its not really tight so it allows the middle leaf to rotate a little. When i reassembled the springs i used fine thread u bolts from my local spring shop. They are less prone to come loose. It infuriated me that my springs were clunking.... the clunk i have now i am convinced its the extenders since it started just after putting them in. Let me know how you make out. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  10. Im running 275 65 20 duratracs on +28 wheels (2019+) and no rub only because i tack welded steering stops to the lower control arms. Lost a tiny bit of turning radius but thats fine for me. Only had to trim the corners of my aftermarket mud flaps. Everything else on the truck is fine. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  11. Same here. 275 65 20 duratracs with 2.25 level and add-a-leafs. No rubbing. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  12. Your rear axle is also a 10 bolt 8.5" that was used on basically all previous generagions. The v8s have 12 bolt 9.5 and 9.75(tow pack) rear axles. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  13. V4 still comes on with tow/haul. Do you have a 6 speed trans? If budget is a problem one trick to disable v4 for basically any driving under 60 mph is to put the trans in manual mode and click up to M5 and leave it. This limits the trans to 5th gear and will not go into 6th and disables V4. When you go on the highway just click to 6th. V4 will then come on. I don't know how it works for the 8 speed. I have a 2016 6 speed. I did this for the last 3 yrs on my truck and it was perfect. If budget is not a problem, get a diablo 8245 tuner. I just got mine and LOVE IT. Diasbles v4 and has tons of options to tune for MPG or more power. I had my doubts at first but after driving for about 1k miles, it is fantastic. Highly recommend. I paid 391 for it. The idea of the Range is kind of annoying that you have to leave it plugged in the obd2. When you go get an inspection and they pull it out and lose it on you, im sure you will roll your eyes lol. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  14. Correct Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  15. Those wheels are K2 wheels. They come on them. T1 is the 2019+ model. The wheels are a "new family" of wheels. Different offsets and sizes Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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