J-Stroke

Wow! I think I'd cough up another $20 and buy one that can be installed in the trailer wall. Just a thought.

Let us know how you make the Haloview filter fit. It looks way too big to fit through the opening for the camera wires, at least on my trailer. The Voyager blunt-cut version below that I installed was a real chore to get to fit through the small hole and then angle in to the narrow insulation-filled cavity of the trailer wall (also below). I doesn't look like that would be possible with the Haloview.

I'll be interested to know how well it fits. The one I got from ASA Electronics (Voyager) is much narrower than the Haloview prototype that was posted here earlier. I still had a heck of a time getting it to fit through the small hole and in to the trailer's thin wall cavity. If the Haloview filter is as big as it looks, there's no way it would have fit. Good luck and keep us posted!

Your suggestion is tempting, as I'm in possession of one! But I promised to send it back to ASA Electronics (Voyager). They first sent me a prototype with some nice CEC connectors so I could just plug-n-play (like the original camera). Sadly, my trailer manufacturer had lopped those off the original camera and wired it the old-fashioned way. ASA is sending me another in-line filter with blunt-cut ends and has asked for the one with CEC connectors back, as it is still pretty rare. That's the least I can do given their efforts to fix a problem that was not of their making. The interesting question, yet to be answered, is when Furrion, Haloview and ASA start mass producing their fixes, will they be free to existing owners or come at a cost?

Yep, all manufacturers seem to agree that it's a GM voltage issue. As for the fixes by Furrion, Haloview and (Voyager ASA Electronics), as far as I can tell they are still prototypes not generally available. Best bet is to contact customer service and be a squeaky wheel.Or do what Ang did and just rewire directly to your trailer or camper battery.

Jack and I both have the Voyager which is made by ASA Electronics. ASA was a bit behind Furrion in coming up with a fix. ASA has offered Jack and me the opportunity to test the prototype for free. We've accepted the offer but have not yet received our prototypes.

Really? That's the best you have to offer? Why even post? 1) People have been towing for decades without weight distribution hitches, anti-lock brakes, traction control, all-wheel drive, blind-spot monitors, lane departure warning systems and even automatic transmissions. Does that mean we should not take advantage of current technology to be safer? 2) It's a rear camera, not a back-up camera. A back-up camera only comes on when the tow vehicle in in reverse. But that brings up its other use, which is to assist in backing up in to tight spaces. Yes, I know, people have been backing up safely for decades. 3) Whether the $400-500 camera is a "need" or a "want", the point is that it was bought on the rational assumption it would work. That a $60,000-70,000 tow vehicle can't adequately power it is an absurdity.

I've been in this fight with GM since December with no success. My advice is to rely on your camera manufacturer. Furrion, Haloview and Voyager (ASA Electronics) are all coming up with fixes. I imagine yours is one of those. As to a lawsuit, I say go for it and, if you do, please keep me updated annually on the status. Sorry for the sarcasm, but as a lawyer myself I can tell when a battle isn't worth fighting and this is one. BTW, I have not heard from ASA Electronics since their earlier post on this thread, at which time they also offered to send me their prototype to test.

Had the same problem Dealerreplaced it with a ned SD card. No issues since.

Thanks, GormanAZ, you did a heck of an investigation! This is quite a mess. I though I would solve the problem by having my trailer service center rewire the camera directly to one of my trailer batteries. But they estimated four hours at $75/hr and I refuse to pay that. It seems to me that this is a design defect that GM should be legally obligated to fix. But I'm just a retired lawyer, what do I know?

Jack, check out my reply on LOA, I included a pic of where the wire bundle is located (tucked in to the frame just behind the bumper). Here's an update, sort of, on the camera dilemma. I turned off all apps and electronics I could in order to see if there was an interference issue I could eliminate; no luck, no change. However, I did manage to end up with a blank Navigation screen. I called OnStar and they rebooted it; all is good on that front. But while we waited the 5 minutes for the reboot, I explained my camera issue to the OnStar tech support person. She said it is probably an incompatibility between my camera and the truck's IOT Radio System, which is GM's high-end system. She suggested that I could probably solve the problem by downgrading to the IO6 system, though it would be expensive to do so. I suggested OnStar do a software fix from their end instead. She laughed at me. "IOT", I assume from my Google search, refers to Internet of Things which I have seen some refer to as "Interference" of Things. As to accessing the wiring in the trailer, I'll be checking with Leon soon, after he's had his coffee.

I agree, direct wire to the trailer's batteries is likely my only solution, at least for now. Also, I just returned from our maiden voyage to Florida and after 2,500 miles of relying on my side mirrors with no rear camera I, like you, don't feel the "need" for the camera any longer. BUT I paid for it and it's not pretty enough just to be an expensive ornament. Besides, I've been blown off by so many vendors and technicians by now that it's a matter of principle; I'm on a mission!

Phil, you are sort of correct; a) is the key factor. With the trailer connected to any other vehicle, the system woks perfectly. With the trailer connected to the Silverado, the system won't work even if I plug the monitor in to another vehicle and bring the monitor and camera within 2' of each other. The only thing I haven't done (I think), is connect the camera to another 12V source while the trailer is connected to the Silverado. I may do that and if it works just connect the camera directly to my trailer's battery and be done with it. I will definitely keep you posted.

I have tried powering the camera with a separate source in the form of another tow vehicle, actually a few other tow vehicles, but that was always through the tow vehicle's trailer harness and the trailer's wiring. System works like a dream on those. I do have keyless entry, and maybe there's something new there for 2019. Unfortunately, my Chevy service center has given up and GM tech support won't even begin to look in to it, so I'm kinda between a rock and a hard place when it comes to doing something to test these theories.

Okay, maybe I don't understand the concept of interference. Help me out. If I can hold the monitor less than 2' from the camera and over 25' from the Silverado and I'm having the same issues, where could the interference be coming from?

Jack, my Chevy service manager and I tried shutting off everything we could -- hotspot, OnStar, GPS, etc. with no luck. I even plugged the monitor in to my Enclave while the trailer was connected to the Silverado, backed it around to the camera, held the monitor 2 feet from the camera, and no change.

Perhaps you are right; I've been wrong before, often in fact. But my bet is it's a voltage drop of some sort. As the article I posted states: "Vehicles equipped with a Trailer Lighting Control Module cannot drive as much current on each circuit when compared to the non-Trailer Lighting Control Module trailer lighting system. The Trailer Lighting Control Module drives four trailer circuits using four solid state drivers that are fed from one 30A lighting fuse. If the total current on the four circuits overloads the fuse, it will fail. If any single lighting circuit exceeds the driver threshold, it will deactivate the output for the balance of the key cycle and a reactivation of the lamp load is required. Individual DTCs are activated for each circuit and that load is turned off due to high current. If a trailer draws too much current, it may be helpful to change some or all of the trailer lighting to LEDs." But, as I also said before, I'm not tech savvy.

I don't think that's the problem, though I wish it were because it would be a simple fix.

Jack, I suspect you will have the same problem given that you, like I, are the proud owner of a Lance. Mine is a 2019 1985 with the Voyager WVOS43 observation system. If you do suffer the same issue, please let me know, AND Lance AND ASA Electronics, AND your Chevy dealer. Seems that thus far I am the only human on the globe who knows about the issue. By the way, a fellow on the Lance Owners' Association (LOA) forum sent me this tech article that helped out on some other issues I thought I had and might give some clues as to this issue: https://gm-techlink.com/?p=11176

I have a rear facing camera (not a backup camera) on my travel trailer. It communicates via bluetooth with a monitor plugged in to the truck's cigarette lighter receptacle. The camera is powered with the trailer's running lights and, thus, the trucks lights (headlights, fog lights or running lights) must be on. The system works fine on my 2002 Silverado, my 2012 Enclave, and three other vehicles I've tested. But with the 2019 Silverado (mine and two others my dealer tested it with) I get a "no signal" message on the monitor 95% of the time or more. By that, I mean 15-30 seconds of no signal and then 2 seconds or less of perfect video. My Chevy service center can't figure it out, GM's tech support blew off my service manager once they heard the camera wasn't a GM product, my trailer manufacturer has no answer, and the camera/monitor maker's answer is that it clearly isn't their problem. The one thing they have in common is that none of them have heard of anyone else having this problem. Any ideas? Any solutions?