SCR71822

So I have 45000 or so miles and decided to do drop the pan and replace the filter in the 6spd trans. I was looking for a seal remover tool but could not locate one so I decided to make my own from suggestions I saw on the net. I purchased a 12: 3/4 metal pipe with the 3/4 NPT thread on both ends. Cost about 6 bucks, I also picked up a Tee fitting and I had a 5in section of 3/4 I reused. I seal is about 1/2 inch total height so took the 12: pipe and I cut about 7/16 off the threads. I did this so it would not go into the trans past the seal an mess it up. I had 2.5 lb weight I used as a slide hammer, it fits perfectly on the 3/4 pipe. I assembled the thing with the weight and Tee with the additional 5in pipe and threaded it directly into the seal in the trans, as soon as all the threads on the pipe were inside the seal the seal began to rotate. At this point I used the 2.5lb weight and with two drops the seal popped right out. I was amazed how well it worked.

Or find a friend that has HP Tuners already and buy the credits for him to program your truck.

Just get the HP tuner and do it yourself depending on the year its like 300 and you get to tune it for increased performance.

Well today I decided to finish my install of the OEM pipe, I do not have a lift so I decided to use the back and used Russell stainless steep crimps to crimp the hose to the front pipe. A lot less work. So my conversion is 100% done now. I'm enjoying the enhanced performance and drivability!

I've been playing with tuning the ECM and Trans with the E85 running about 72% Alcohol. Learning tons on tuning Gen V DI on E85. The truck is very fun to drive. I have a regular cab so it is the lighter of the Silverado's only the 2wd would be slightly lighter. It is actually fun to drive now and feels so much more responsive now. Its been cold her near Chicago so I'm currently tuning it for better cold starts. I bought the line and looked at what it was going to take to install it and decided against it, I think I'm going to splice the lines at the nylon bend. It will still look like a factory install picked up Russel Stainless Steel Ferrules and hydraulic crimper. I wish Hypertech and Diablo, etc would work on E85 specific tunes for their products, being able to add 40+ hp for a coupe hundred bucks it a great deal.

I'm currently testing it now, it runs about 17 degrees cooler than stock in the 180 to 190 range so far, I'm trying to get the ECT to be no higher than 194 in normal summer driving.

Well I have since added a recalibrated thermostat 180-190 that gives me a good temp drop but not too low so cold weather driving and the Air Raid modular intake pipe. I started changing parameters specifically for E85 in the ECM. The Truck responds so much better!

Sitting at 70.6% Ethanol, feels even better. That was Thornton's. Next fill-up I will try another station see if they have higher % Feels great to drive now.

I had to dial the Shift Firmness down to Tow as it was too harsh at WOT. The truck is fun to drive, breaks the rear tires loose easy now, super fun to drive. I have to up the Alcohol % to 70 or higher at the next fill up.

Well I am at 60% Alcohol now so I tuned It with my Hypertech Max Energy 2.0 using the following params: Premium Fuel tuning Throttle Response - Track Shift Response - Track Shift Firmness - Street I tried a couple firmness settings, and the heavy acceleration shifts were way to harsh for me so I have been dialing it back, The more aggressive shift firmness had great part throttle shifts but very clunky high rpm shifts. I pulled HPtuner dumps after each one so I can figure out a good medium.

I thought I would post this this is the factory rating of the L83 5.3 on E10 and E85: Horsepower (hp / kW @ rpm): 355 / 250 @ 5600 (gas – SAE certified) 380 / 283 @ 5600 (E85 – SAE certified) Torque (lb-ft / Nm @ rpm): 383 / 519 @ 4100 (gas – SAE certified) 416 / 564 @ 4100 (E85 – SAE certified) Read more: http://gmauthority.com/blog/gm/gm-engines/l83/#ixzz5k8VxHIzf

Have you tried a QR code reader on your smartphone just to see what it says yet? Dump the text, edit the FH0 to FHS then recompile the QR code https://www.the-qrcode-generator.com/ Take a screen shot of the new QR code and a picture of existing label, photoshop the new QR code on the existing label, send to the printer to have the label printed.

http://www.ecsvin.com/order.php Here is a company that makes reproduction labels, I just photoshopped it to change FH0 to FHS. Label is kind of expensive.

I tried to see what is involved in the changing the fuel line, and those retaining clips are a pain...so I am going to just replace all of them, it's only like 20 bucks for new clips and I don't want to waste time babying them. I also bought extremely long needle nose pliers from Harbor Freight for $10 to open up the metal retaining clip on top of the trans, I want to attempt to do it without having to unbolt the cross member and dropping the motor/trans.

I'm trying to figure out how to make a new RPO code sticker for my glove box.

That is why I am using OEM parts, I doubt they will know, its very subtle. I have 31000 miles on my truck now. This was a $100 option on my truck, so its not like it is not supported.

Yes, sir that is my plan!

Got my OEM front fuel line. Will install soon. So far no problems. Feels a bit more torquey.

I have a hypertech max energy tuner I will use to program it soon after I get a full tank of e85. I will then have a good baseline tune I can play with to try and get more power.

I'm happy with the conversion so I decided to order the OEM front uel line as well and install, it was only about 55 bucks. Total cost of the parts is about $130 or so, big cost was the HP tuner.

I put about 6 gallons of E85 in to fill the tank. It is now showing about 30% Ethanol. It seems to have a little bit more torque and able to stay in V4 mode longer before. I can't wait to get a full tank of E85.

Just took for a drive and looked for leaks, no leaks. Programed the ECM and t saw the alcohol content at 11.8% which is about right since I use E15 usually. Well I have to wait for my tank to go down so I can fill up with E85. Here is a picture of the fitting I used, I repurposed the quick connect fitting from the old line I cut.

Just finished installing it and testing for leaks so far so good. I will program the ECM now to see the Sensor. I would have preferred to bent and flared the existing line but in the space it was impossible. I did put loktite on the stainless elbow threads so it doesn't vibrate loose.

I got my SS 90 degree elbow. Now I will see if I can install.

Well I wanted to reuse the current front engine fuel line, but there is no easy way to bend a 90 degree bend and then out a push connect flare on it. So, I've decided to cut and use a singe Stainless 90 degree compression elbow in front of the sensor. It should be here next week.