topgear1224

Tire rack had the actual sizes in their spec sheet Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

I should be clear if you're going off of your trip meter your trip meter is no longer valid once you put oversized tires on. Not until there's an ECU crack. The little tie in modules do not affect the trip computer data they only affect the needle on the speedo. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

If it actually works it'll make the gauge accurate. If you're doing the speed limit on your big tires you were likely six to eight miles an hour faster. (I didn't actually calculate it) That's easily 10% loss just due to the speed Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

As far as I know nobody has a gauge recalibrator so if he's doing 70 on 35s showing up on the speedo he's actually going much faster!!! Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

If you didn't regear it that's why your fuel economy is suffering. say you had 31 inch tires originally then you went to a 35 that's the same as Towing approximately 4000 pounds all the time. The only way to compensate that is to get your truck re geared. the reason why my fuel mileage increased so much with a smaller tires is because my truck can't even engage 5th gear until 75 miles an hour with the 35s. And with aerodynamics like a brick it's working the engine much harder. yes lighter tires will improve your fuel efficiency however you've already destroyed the aerodynamics of the vehicle by not only leveling it, but also lifting the front in 6 inches higher which means now there is 6in more air underneath to get turbulent which means more drag. what can I say you got to pay to play this is just part of owning a lifted truck. as the truck ages those heavy wheels and tires without a re gear are going to wear the engine and transmission out "sooner." (nobody knows longevity we could be talking the difference between 1 million miles and "only" getting 500k miles) Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Redacted, missunderstood

If that's all you lost you are lucky!!! I have a 2500HD 6 in tuff country lift. On 315/75R16 9.7mpg highway mpg at GPS 70MPH On 285/75R16 15.8mpg highway at GPS 70MPH. Stock tire size is 245/75R16 This was the same highway loop same day for a full tank (24 gallons). Anywho normal loss with a 6inch is about 25-30%. With the smaller tires with the serria you did better than most. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

It is 0% but you forgo the $6,500 customer cash. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

What I am saying is that if they did a 2 inch level to only then fit tires half an inch taller wouldn't it have looked beefier without it and the stock tires? [emoji848] Also tires are what give your axles clearance from the ground. The lift is to move the body out of the way. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

I heard they won't release the loan until 18 months after purchase to prevent just that[emoji2369]. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Here is my stock X31 elevation no spacers etc look how close it is to the wheel front at full lock. 41° according to the display. I don't know that I would buy 4 new tires for 1/4 inch of lift. But to each their own. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Whoops missed the 2 in level. My pics are a stock truck any wider and you are going to hit the UCA, any taller and you will hit the wheel well while turning. There was a finger worth of distance at full lock. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

He mentioned stock. I don't see you fitting anything larger than the OEM 275/60R20 without a lift or trimming. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

With no lift and not trimming you aren't fitting anything larger Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Did you scale it? You could have tightened up the arms or dropped the hitch more. on the new trucks are actually designed to use the overload in daily driving so they have tuned the overload to be softer than overloads of the past and that's why they squat so much. I was only maybe an inch to 1 1/4 off the bump stop and although I wouldn't necessarily tell somebody to tow cross-country like that it was actually fine. I will be adding airbags with Daystar cradles on a king edition superlift 3in Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Yes but not literally. Basically if you just pull you are going to rip a boot. You have to shock load it. They have a slide hammer attachment to remove them without damage. It takes a sudden movement. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

GVWR will be 7,300. Payload will depend on options. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

3.0 crew cab standard bed X31 Elevation Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

I thought that was implied, that's why I was saying he was gonna sag even with max tow springs. They only add 150-400lbs payload capacity. I was just saying with my maximum recommended tongue weight of 900 pounds that's what my truck looks like. technically payload is per axle however it cannot exceed GVWR when combined. [emoji4] Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

The clunk is typically caused by the torque converter draining overnight in combination with when you initially engage the reverse or forward gear set manufacturers like to use max line pressure to prevent slippage. It appears at least from my research that GM has worked around that problem by forcing the engines to not idle up as aggressively and to idle down when the brake is pressed and it senses that you're about to move the gear shift. to be honest with GM being involved in a class-action lawsuit I do not expect to see any design changes come to the 8-speed ever because doing so would admit that it was built wrong originally. There is a known issue with the brake pedal dropping and start/stop system. They updated the calibration, it helped some. But my brakes still lack linearly and bite. Basically my brakes have 2 settings which is drag to a slow stop were the transmission also fights it below 15miles an hour. And FULL ABS PANIC!!! There is no in-between. And seeing how easily they overheated combined with how little brake dust there is after 6k miles tells me the pads prefer to slide than grip. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Kinda. It fixed through throttle limits. If you remote start it when you get in and push the start button it'll immediately idle down even if the engines ice cold. There's also a noticeable delay if you hop in start it and immediately put it in reverse. You have to hit the gas to get it to move. Always makes me think it's broken. it's all electronic there is no design change. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

You have to let it idle for Minute or 2. If you hop in fire it up and drop it into D as you put your seatbelt on its gonna thud. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Like literally going airborne. 6-8 inches off the ground. What happens is the front hits the bump stops, the front max droops right as the rear hits the bump and subsequent bump stops. Then the ass goes airborne. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

My truck is only rated for 900lbs of tongue weight. 1500 payload between the front and rear axles. Grab either hellwig helper springs 61912 timbren springs GMRTT15S or both. They are quality products. They will get you were you are trying to be. Max tow isn't really that much better or stiffer. It's still gonna "sag" with 500lbs. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Interesting dealer told me the all the strut assemblies are the same PN except for the snow plow package. (And obviously the TB/AT4) What is the spring rate on the Z71 vs the regular 4x4? I'm trying to find a way to fix my bottom out issue going down the highway. It hits so hard that when it comes back up the rear tires are leaving the ground. although I believe there's definitely a problem in the rear I think a lot of it has to do with the front sending a bunch of weight to the rear. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk