I was thinking a way for a video input would be cool for a front camera in the grill for parking...
I tucked in the usb cable from my dashcam into the headliner, then down the passenger pillar, then into the fuse panel on the passenger side. Picked up a 12v to 2 usb converter and one of those piggyback fuse thingies. Someone here noted the 7.5a fuse for the heated steering wheel is a good location to tap into. Has worked perfectly. Used double sided 3M tape to mount the transformer box to the inside of the dash, and used a bolt that is down by the footwell for the ground.
As in MPG calculation? I've figured it out @ the pump/trip meter only twice so far and the first calculation was a fuzz worst than the onboard computer reading, and this last one was about .25mpg better. Great MPG for long, non stop 60-70mph cruising, but this last tank is going down @ around 18mpg with a lot of stop & go driving, and have to admit I haven't been too easy on it...
Put on about 500+/- miles last weekend after spending a couple days in the Traverse City MI area. Can't complain about one thing on the truck. With quite a mix of driving, average mpg was 22.2, and with a high of 25+ over a 50 mile avg, with the a/c on most of the time. L84, Tonneau cover, Flapper & screen mod, 87 octane, 20" tires @ 37psi.
Which tire/wheel combo did you get? Maybe your salesman could let you take a similar truck with a different tire/wheel combo for a ride. Tires alone can make a hell of a difference. My LT Z71's ride is fairly decent, and is MUCH firmer ride than the '19 ram I test drove. The ram seemed to be very "boaty". Hope you get it sorted out.
I haven't driven mine enough to have a valid before/after mpg, but I haven't noticed my mpg improving...but that could be due to several reasons. We are moving our son up to college in a couple weeks which is a 400 mile trip each way. Thought I'd remove flapper mod for the trip home to see if there's a notable difference.
I noticed how the exhaust on my 5.3 is "clearanced" where it crosses over. I'm not an engineer, and I'm sure it's not as constrictive as it looks...but being pinched off like that looks painful. Seems to me there would be reduced flow due to the turbulence it would make.
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Did mine a couple days ago. I had some left over HVAC aluminum foil tape and taped up the "vents". Then for the flapper mod, I took about 4 1/2" piece of flexible metal strap and made a "U", with equal length's on all 3 sides, tightened it onto the outside of the flapper valve, turned it the direction in the pic, then tightened the inside with the hose clamps. I've driven it a few hundred miles and the tape is holding up fine, and with it being taped facing the inside of the truck, you can't see it from the wheel well. Again, it's not going to make your truck set off car alarms...but does give you a nice little sound improvement for in my case, just left over items in my barn.
I put these on today. I'm impressed so far. Seem nice & sturdy (doesn't flex under my 250lb's), easy to install with just a 13mm socket, no drilling. Fit perfect. (Sorry for the poor pics...I think we're getting the remnants of Barry & raining pretty hard.)
I wired up some driving lights on my JL Wrangler relaying off the high beam lead. Worked perfect. The relay didn't draw enough juice to throw a code or anything, and they were bright enough that I wouldn't want them on unless I had the high beams on anyways.
I remember when I bought my gen5 Camaro, adding OEM driving lights were around $300...until the Chinese copied them and in a couple months, you could buy them on Ebay for $50. I'm not promoting buying the overseas knockoffs that will be coming...but come on GM...$500? I had my LT on my lift yesterday and took a couple pics of the mount inside the bumper where the lights mount up to. I'm toying with the idea of seeing if it might be possible to make up a 3d printed assembly that might be able to hold an LED light. Heat given off would be the issue of anything 3d printed though.
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