Mark Vyskocil

They are both, I bought .375 BORA hub centric spacers from Custom Offsets. They look just like the ones on the right in this pic. Just plugged in the truck info and ordered what came up. The image on the site shows a 5 lug. But it warns that the image may be incorrect. They were perfect, thick enough to accomplish what I needed, thin enough to use stock lugs and studs. I'm averaging around 15mpg. But I drive it like I stole it. Hard on the gas, hard on the brakes. I know I could get better if I kept my foot off the floor.

No rubs, lock to lock, forward, reverse or sharp curbs or driveways. Now you will have to "massage" the liners and mud flaps. I trimmed, pushed, pulled on plastic the liners for sure. But you gotta break some eggs to make and omelette right? I went 12.50, going with an 11.50 would lessen this I feel sure, but where is the fun in that? I love Nitto Mud Grapplers. I've had 5 sets on 3 different trucks. Can count on 50k plus with good rotations, pushed 70k on one set but they started to crack. Road noise is average for a mud tire but can kept it to a minimum with rotation. Wait to long and they will HOWL when you move them. Typical for aggressive tire tread. I try to rotate every 5000 or so. My current AT4 has 35x12.50x20's. If you go my route, plan on the spacer as a must. Without at minimum a 1/4 shim the lugs on the inside sidewall of the Mud Grappler rubbed the upper control arm just a touch at full droop. I drove it for a day and never heard or felt anything but had seen how close it was and got the shim/spacer immediately. I don't care for too much "poke" so no big 2in wheel spacers for me. I prefer the tall tucked just under the fender look. I used a 3/8in one with factory lugs and studs.

No issues what so ever. Just over 20k on it now. Tire wear is minimal. Rides slightly firmer then stock with a more planted heavy feel. I run my tires at 33-34psi. Been seeing a lot of UCA ball joint talk. But I haven't had any problems. I work in the collision industry and my company has 14 locations. I haven't seen or heard of any late model GM trucks coming in this this type damage. I could see it happening for sure, but I haven't experienced it. I did swap out the 1/4 "shim" spacers for some 3/8 hub centric ones from Custom Offsets. Not for more poke but felt the hub centric set up was better for the long run. Also added AirLift bags in the rear since she really sagged with my boat behind her. Very happy with my set up. Can't tell you ho many guys can't believe those are 35's when they walk up.

Not sure how I contradicted myself. I said I had no "real issues". I guess my definition of issues is different then yours. Can you mount 35's on a stock without any mods? In my opinion no. Could you mount 35's with a level kit and no issues? Maybe, every 35 measures out a little different. I would consider the things I had to do after mounting a tire that measures 35.04x13.39 on stock wheels, side effects not issues. I put a tire on my truck that was never designed to be there. In order to do this I had to modify the truck. My upper control arm is about 3/4 inch from the tire. Maybe just slightly less than that at full droop. If it clears, it clears. My angles look fine to me, I'm not worried about any of my angles. As time passed and I hit some different bumps, curbs, etc I found I had I still had a small rub from time to time. I located it, made a few more changes and corrected. Did i cut on my truck? Yes but it was done carefully and I took a little at a time. Anytime you venture away from the way the truck was designed there are going to be issues. Some big, some small. Even replacing the tag lights with led's on these trucks will set trouble codes. Some of us can deal with that, others can't. I got news for ya, even without 35's you truck will still be one of the best looking trucks ever designed. For each their own.

I only drove it about week stock so I never really got a good read prior to the level and tires. I'm around 15-16mpg now which is 5-6mpg better then my 2012 with a 6.2, and same tires only slightly smaller so I'm completely fine with 15-16. Man I looked, read posts, watched youtube videos, etc etc until I just kinda said screw it. No matter what you do someone will all ways say it cant be done, or not to do it. I decided to just order what I wanted. I figured I'm driving it not the internet experts. I removed one tire and slid the spacer on. Reinstalled the tire and hand tightened the lugs. They each spun 6-7 times and then a few more with the impact. Just drove a 600mile round trip and they are all still torqued just fine. I'm sure there is spec out there somewhere where it states if you don't have X amount of thread contact on the stud blah blah blah. I drive it, and I trust it just like it is.

No real issues. I driven over 8000 miles on this set up. I did have to do a little more trimming to cure a small rub at one certain steering wheel angle. But looks stock to the untrained eye. I also bought the Hypertech inline speedo calibrator, and ended up buying some 1/2in hub centric spacers from Custom Offsets and ditched the 1/4in shim. Just made me feel better. I'm still super happy with it and get a lot of "HOLY S@#% those are 35x12.50s" comments.

I don't feel the angles are a concern at all. It drives just like it did stock but with a more stable or planted feel.

I'll try to get a few more side pics uploaded tonight. The geometry was perfect. My alignment guy was shocked, a slight tweak to the toe and we were done. I think the idea with the 1318 is that the lift comes from more than one location. A spacer at the bottom of the spring and the shims between the lower control arm and the shock. Rather the just a big block at the bottom of the shock. When the say 2 in, they mean 2 in.

She still has the bandages on, but once they come off and she has time heal a little maybe. I didn't use a wheel spacer or adapter just a Dorman 6 lug "shim" I picked up at the local O'Reilly's. 1/4in thick, worked perfect.

No guts no glory. I went ahead and did the Rough Country 1318 2in level. It was anything but level. It had had the front up an inch higher than the rear. So out go the factory AT4 blocks and in come 3in ones. Sits dead level now. Went with 35x12.50x20 Nitto Trail Grapplers. Was a little nervous since they measure and true 35in and 13.39 wide. A 1/4 spacer was needed on the front since the width of tire was causing a light rub on the upper control arms. Removed the mud flap bracket, trimmed the mudflap, and pushed and pulled the liner out of the way. No rubs, lock to lock now.