dw91

It was very noticeable in both my lmls. The idle rpm is up around 1100rpm which increases the idle speed by 2-3km/h. If you were towing or loaded it wouldn’t be noticeable.

You can do more mileage per oil change on the diesel so it’s a wash. On the 6.6 the rpms are higher while idling during a regen. You notice when you come to a stop the truck feels like it’s trying to pull through the brakes and the truck moves much quicker at idle speed.

The 6.6L takes 10qts, maybe that’s where he pulled the number from?

Get the Lc2i or a dsp (is go dsp personally). When I added my sub the shop used a basic LOC and it was just “meh”. Not what I expected from a JL 12TW3. I added a gain controller knob to the amp and again it was only a slight improvement. Added a Dayton audio dsp for $200 and it brought the sub to life! Your limited to what the oem stereo puts out as far as signal voltage without some way of turning up the voltage to the amp it. The dsp fixes that and allows you to tune the sub and expand later if you choose to do so.

I hear a noticeable difference with my JL 6x9’s and infinity dash speakers using the rest of the oem system. Less distortion but the timing is off so I just set the balance a bit heavier on the right side to even it out. Wife doesn’t complain so it’s all good. Adding a sub is a must IMO before anything else. The stock Bose one is ok for a stock stereo but sucks if you’ve ever heard a half way decent setup.

Really? Funny because my fronts are 6x9’s

I have a fix 86 but may not end up using it. I picked up a Helix dsp3 and hope it can clean up the incoming signals. If not I’ll go navtv for simplicity. If you’re using a basic LOC for a sub I would highly suggest getting a dsp. You’re missing out on 50% of your bass without it even using a bass knob to try and boost the signal.

Yes iPhone X and no eq. It could be because you have the volume maxed on your phone? With the USB cable anything much passed 1/2-2/3 volume is really loud.

I found the opposite and the sound quality is definitely worse with BT compared to USB.

I didn’t say it doesn’t work, it’s just distracting when I’m trying to make an evasive manoeuvre and I don’t find it to be of any help. If I made a habit of not paying attention then I’d leave it on. I had the seat and the lights off after the first time it did it’s whole thing. My new truck doesn’t have it so it’s a non issue.

Not close at all. It would mostly happen when I’d be avoiding the a hole that cut me off to turn into the parking lot or the street they were about to miss. I’d be changing into the left lane to avoid them and my dashboard would look like a Christmas tree and my ass felt like my wife’s lightsaber was stuck in the seat. Just leave the driving up to me thank you very much.

I’d like to have the HU display and the surround cameras but everything else would be turned off before I left the parking lot so I didn’t order the package. I turned off all that Collision avoidance and lane departure crap in my denali on the trip home as it was nothing but a distraction. Sunroof, yes. I work in the dark and I like having it open with the split back window during warm summer nights.

I have a 19 with the Bose system. You can just swap the speakers but get the connectors from crutchfield or you’ll end up having to cut the factory one off the oem speaker wires. The timing ends up a bit of a mess and the infinity coax’s that I used are way to bright causing me to have the treble turned almost all the way down but it’s manageable and a heck of a lot better. Start with the 6x9’s though as I mentioned, you may not need to change the dash speakers.

3.5’s won’t fit. I had to cut a lot out and they still didn’t fit perfect. Get some 2.5 full range for the dash and better 6x9’s in the door. The 6x9’s made the biggest difference for me. I have the oem Bose stereo, it’s ok for stock but once you upgrade it you see what you’re missing. I’ll be using Morel CCWR 254’s in the new truck but it’ll be a 3 way active setup. After I replaced the speakers the timing was way off so the sound comes from the right corner when you have the L/R balanced and needs to be faded to the right to balance it for the drivers seat. I would recommend starting with a 6x9 that isn’t coax and go from there.

Get a harness made up from [email protected] I got mine in a timely manner and it’s nicely built. I’m not sure how it works with the non-Bose but he can answer your questions.

Everything I’ve read about overly loud chimes has to do with your gain being set too high.

Well my project is on hold. My trucks going back to the dealership and I’m ordering a 2020 AT4 with a 6.2L. Until then I’ve installed a dsp from the LOC to the amp and I NOW have a real sub in there lol. I’m a bit disappointed with the original installer and him not suggesting some options and insisting on the added dsp. From now until the new truck comes I’ll try and decide if I’m going to build a custom box and two shallow subs or stick with the JL prefab. Maybe two 12T3’s or something similar that fit on one side of the truck (not sure how that will sound) or one box on each side that I can remove easily. The JL stealth box isn’t an option, it’s too damn big and cumbersome plus it’s way too much money. The one T3 pushed is just enough to get me smiling. I’d rather not have to max it out and once I get my front stage setup on the amp it’s going to need the extra oomph to sound clean. “Just adding a sub” is turning into the most I’ve done for car audio in any vehicle.

I actually did more research after I posted and changed my mind about the audiocontrol unit so I’ll ship it back when it gets here. I found a used JL Fix86 on eBay for a good price that I’m going to pair with a Dayton Audio DSP-408. It’s a bit more money than I originally planned but a much more capable setup and I’m sure I’ll be happy with it. I watched a tutorial about this dsp and I feel confident I can get a baseline setup and it doesn’t seem too complicated.

Wow! That’s pretty interesting and I didn’t know that. I did research on deleting my last two truck (2011 LTZ duramax/2015 Denali duramax) but never took the plunge. Warranty to me on those diesels was more valuable.

Oh I know all about these black holes lol. It seems every “hobby” I find has one and I dive head first down it but I’ve been into audio pretty much my whole life. I’ve been out of the car audio scene for about 15 years and could only afford a basic setup back then, but did my high school co-op at a local shop. I’ve put together a pretty decent home setup over the years and have always enjoyed good clean rounded sound (not a bass head, sharp/shrill treble irks me). The technology seems to have evolved a bit in the car scene and I’ve got my head spinning right now with DSP’s. I’m not sure if I chose the right option for the truck (AudioControl DQ-61). I really don’t want to spend $1000 on one that is too complicated and technical, I won’t use it to it’s potential and it’s out of the budget. I’d ideally like one that’s setup via BT on my phone so I can keep it hidden, the DQ-61 needs to be accessible for tuning. I don’t daily drive the truck so I won’t be nit picking as much as I would be if I were to be sitting in it for hours in traffic but I’m sure I’ll find things I want to tweak.

I’ve got a few things on order to get a proper setup going. Hopefully it all turns out as planned and it sounds the way I want it to. “I’m just going to add a sub” has snowballed into a full “budget” system.

I just swapped out the front door 6x9’s with JL C1’s. I used their component set and had to use self tapping screws to mount it but no big deal. I also used sound deadner to cover the odd shape hole that the Bose bracket left to make sure things were sealed up. It sounds MUCH better now. I had a local shop install my sub and they used a cheap LOC so I need to add base and fade to the rear a bit on the HU still to get some good volume from it. I think I’m going to redo the install and add a DQ-61 to correct the rolloff as well as my front soundstage. Once I changed the dash speakers the sound comes from the corners of the dash instead of the front middle until you’re at full volume and I don’t like it at all. I’m going to double check to see if the chimes come from the left front speaker only and if so I’ll tap the DQ-61 into the rears and front right only. I’ll leave the left dash speaker hooked up to the Bose and split the right signal. That way I should be able to add an amp and but not have the loud chime problem and with the DQ-61 I can correct the timing.

I always drove with them as far away as possible because I have long legs. My wife liked them but I fixed that by getting a vehicle just for her to drive and banished her from the driver seat of my truck.

So the price difference in fuel is the difference between premium (suggested fuel for the 6.2L) and regular. Oh wait, maybe not in your area ie. the world so that’s irrelevant. And no big deal that it holds two quarts more, you can do twice the mileage per oil change.

No I’m saying buy the jugs. Lots of reported issues with the stuff at the pumps being contaminated.