dw91

It was very noticeable in both my lmls. The idle rpm is up around 1100rpm which increases the idle speed by 2-3km/h. If you were towing or loaded it wouldn’t be noticeable.

You can do more mileage per oil change on the diesel so it’s a wash. On the 6.6 the rpms are higher while idling during a regen. You notice when you come to a stop the truck feels like it’s trying to pull through the brakes and the truck moves much quicker at idle speed.

The 6.6L takes 10qts, maybe that’s where he pulled the number from?

Get the Lc2i or a dsp (is go dsp personally). When I added my sub the shop used a basic LOC and it was just “meh”. Not what I expected from a JL 12TW3. I added a gain controller knob to the amp and again it was only a slight improvement. Added a Dayton audio dsp for $200 and it brought the sub to life! Your limited to what the oem stereo puts out as far as signal voltage without some way of turning up the voltage to the amp it. The dsp fixes that and allows you to tune the sub and expand later if you choose to do so.

I hear a noticeable difference with my JL 6x9’s and infinity dash speakers using the rest of the oem system. Less distortion but the timing is off so I just set the balance a bit heavier on the right side to even it out. Wife doesn’t complain so it’s all good. Adding a sub is a must IMO before anything else. The stock Bose one is ok for a stock stereo but sucks if you’ve ever heard a half way decent setup.

Really? Funny because my fronts are 6x9’s

I have a fix 86 but may not end up using it. I picked up a Helix dsp3 and hope it can clean up the incoming signals. If not I’ll go navtv for simplicity. If you’re using a basic LOC for a sub I would highly suggest getting a dsp. You’re missing out on 50% of your bass without it even using a bass knob to try and boost the signal.

Yes iPhone X and no eq. It could be because you have the volume maxed on your phone? With the USB cable anything much passed 1/2-2/3 volume is really loud.

I found the opposite and the sound quality is definitely worse with BT compared to USB.

Get a harness made up from [email protected] I got mine in a timely manner and it’s nicely built. I’m not sure how it works with the non-Bose but he can answer your questions.

Everything I’ve read about overly loud chimes has to do with your gain being set too high.

Well my project is on hold. My trucks going back to the dealership and I’m ordering a 2020 AT4 with a 6.2L. Until then I’ve installed a dsp from the LOC to the amp and I NOW have a real sub in there lol. I’m a bit disappointed with the original installer and him not suggesting some options and insisting on the added dsp. From now until the new truck comes I’ll try and decide if I’m going to build a custom box and two shallow subs or stick with the JL prefab. Maybe two 12T3’s or something similar that fit on one side of the truck (not sure how that will sound) or one box on each side that I can remove easily. The JL stealth box isn’t an option, it’s too damn big and cumbersome plus it’s way too much money. The one T3 pushed is just enough to get me smiling. I’d rather not have to max it out and once I get my front stage setup on the amp it’s going to need the extra oomph to sound clean. “Just adding a sub” is turning into the most I’ve done for car audio in any vehicle.

I actually did more research after I posted and changed my mind about the audiocontrol unit so I’ll ship it back when it gets here. I found a used JL Fix86 on eBay for a good price that I’m going to pair with a Dayton Audio DSP-408. It’s a bit more money than I originally planned but a much more capable setup and I’m sure I’ll be happy with it. I watched a tutorial about this dsp and I feel confident I can get a baseline setup and it doesn’t seem too complicated.

Wow! That’s pretty interesting and I didn’t know that. I did research on deleting my last two truck (2011 LTZ duramax/2015 Denali duramax) but never took the plunge. Warranty to me on those diesels was more valuable.

Oh I know all about these black holes lol. It seems every “hobby” I find has one and I dive head first down it but I’ve been into audio pretty much my whole life. I’ve been out of the car audio scene for about 15 years and could only afford a basic setup back then, but did my high school co-op at a local shop. I’ve put together a pretty decent home setup over the years and have always enjoyed good clean rounded sound (not a bass head, sharp/shrill treble irks me). The technology seems to have evolved a bit in the car scene and I’ve got my head spinning right now with DSP’s. I’m not sure if I chose the right option for the truck (AudioControl DQ-61). I really don’t want to spend $1000 on one that is too complicated and technical, I won’t use it to it’s potential and it’s out of the budget. I’d ideally like one that’s setup via BT on my phone so I can keep it hidden, the DQ-61 needs to be accessible for tuning. I don’t daily drive the truck so I won’t be nit picking as much as I would be if I were to be sitting in it for hours in traffic but I’m sure I’ll find things I want to tweak.