dw91

It was very noticeable in both my lmls. The idle rpm is up around 1100rpm which increases the idle speed by 2-3km/h. If you were towing or loaded it wouldn’t be noticeable.

You can do more mileage per oil change on the diesel so it’s a wash. On the 6.6 the rpms are higher while idling during a regen. You notice when you come to a stop the truck feels like it’s trying to pull through the brakes and the truck moves much quicker at idle speed.

The 6.6L takes 10qts, maybe that’s where he pulled the number from?

Get the Lc2i or a dsp (is go dsp personally). When I added my sub the shop used a basic LOC and it was just “meh”. Not what I expected from a JL 12TW3. I added a gain controller knob to the amp and again it was only a slight improvement. Added a Dayton audio dsp for $200 and it brought the sub to life! Your limited to what the oem stereo puts out as far as signal voltage without some way of turning up the voltage to the amp it. The dsp fixes that and allows you to tune the sub and expand later if you choose to do so.

I hear a noticeable difference with my JL 6x9’s and infinity dash speakers using the rest of the oem system. Less distortion but the timing is off so I just set the balance a bit heavier on the right side to even it out. Wife doesn’t complain so it’s all good. Adding a sub is a must IMO before anything else. The stock Bose one is ok for a stock stereo but sucks if you’ve ever heard a half way decent setup.

Really? Funny because my fronts are 6x9’s

I have a fix 86 but may not end up using it. I picked up a Helix dsp3 and hope it can clean up the incoming signals. If not I’ll go navtv for simplicity. If you’re using a basic LOC for a sub I would highly suggest getting a dsp. You’re missing out on 50% of your bass without it even using a bass knob to try and boost the signal.

Yes iPhone X and no eq. It could be because you have the volume maxed on your phone? With the USB cable anything much passed 1/2-2/3 volume is really loud.

I found the opposite and the sound quality is definitely worse with BT compared to USB.

I have a 19 with the Bose system. You can just swap the speakers but get the connectors from crutchfield or you’ll end up having to cut the factory one off the oem speaker wires. The timing ends up a bit of a mess and the infinity coax’s that I used are way to bright causing me to have the treble turned almost all the way down but it’s manageable and a heck of a lot better. Start with the 6x9’s though as I mentioned, you may not need to change the dash speakers.

3.5’s won’t fit. I had to cut a lot out and they still didn’t fit perfect. Get some 2.5 full range for the dash and better 6x9’s in the door. The 6x9’s made the biggest difference for me. I have the oem Bose stereo, it’s ok for stock but once you upgrade it you see what you’re missing. I’ll be using Morel CCWR 254’s in the new truck but it’ll be a 3 way active setup. After I replaced the speakers the timing was way off so the sound comes from the right corner when you have the L/R balanced and needs to be faded to the right to balance it for the drivers seat. I would recommend starting with a 6x9 that isn’t coax and go from there.

Get a harness made up from [email protected] I got mine in a timely manner and it’s nicely built. I’m not sure how it works with the non-Bose but he can answer your questions.

Everything I’ve read about overly loud chimes has to do with your gain being set too high.

Well my project is on hold. My trucks going back to the dealership and I’m ordering a 2020 AT4 with a 6.2L. Until then I’ve installed a dsp from the LOC to the amp and I NOW have a real sub in there lol. I’m a bit disappointed with the original installer and him not suggesting some options and insisting on the added dsp. From now until the new truck comes I’ll try and decide if I’m going to build a custom box and two shallow subs or stick with the JL prefab. Maybe two 12T3’s or something similar that fit on one side of the truck (not sure how that will sound) or one box on each side that I can remove easily. The JL stealth box isn’t an option, it’s too damn big and cumbersome plus it’s way too much money. The one T3 pushed is just enough to get me smiling. I’d rather not have to max it out and once I get my front stage setup on the amp it’s going to need the extra oomph to sound clean. “Just adding a sub” is turning into the most I’ve done for car audio in any vehicle.

I actually did more research after I posted and changed my mind about the audiocontrol unit so I’ll ship it back when it gets here. I found a used JL Fix86 on eBay for a good price that I’m going to pair with a Dayton Audio DSP-408. It’s a bit more money than I originally planned but a much more capable setup and I’m sure I’ll be happy with it. I watched a tutorial about this dsp and I feel confident I can get a baseline setup and it doesn’t seem too complicated.