Definitely not cost friendly. Not sure I can pull the trigger on my wish list. Especially with the uncertainty right now. Just wanted to know if anyone had experience. And the cost difference between the speed engineering headers and stainless works would pay for the ECM exchange.
Anyone install headers yet? I'm guessing not many due to the cost of tuning these trucks. I know some of the bigger names have headers/y advertised for our trucks like stainless works, kooks, American racing. Does anyone know if there is anything actually different from the 2018 headers and y to the 2019 headers and y? Some of the more affordable headers like speed engineering and Texas speed don't advertise as 2019 but have 2018 setups.
https://whipplesuperchargers.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=522 All new 3.0 Whipple. No price advertised as of yet and does not include the computer swap from HPT. I've never had a supercharger put on any of my trucks but I think this might be in my future.
It's $150 less than Roto Fab. Found it for $335 on ebay. I had a K&N years ago on a 2002 Silverado and it served me well without issues. I seem to remember reading on here from someone that they suspected the K&N would require tuning where the Roto Fab does not. And I do believe the Dyno sheet they advertise is for the 6.2
Anyone have any experience or thoughts about the K&N 63-3109? I would like to add a CAI, and even though I don't expect much of a HP gain with any setup, I want to get a good option. I like the Roto-Fab but the K&N can be had for $150 less. The snap on lid of the K&N with the rubber grommets is questionable to me for some reason. If anyone can give feedback it would be appreciated.
Had mine delivered from Massachusetts to Maryland with no charge. If they want to sell it bad enough, they will deliver. My mother also recently bought a Trax over 2 hours away and they delivered no charge.
Service Mode This power mode is available for service and diagnostics, and to verify the proper operation of the malfunction indicator lamp as may be required for emission inspection purposes. With the vehicle off, and the brake pedal not applied, pressing and holding the button for more than five seconds will place the vehicle in Service Mode. The instruments and audio systems will operate as they do when the ignition is on, but the vehicle will not be able to be driven. The engine will not start in Service Mode. Press the button again to turn the ignition off.
I have the same thing also. Had it to a dealer. They tried to replace the windshield under warranty. I wouldn't let them because I'm pretty sure the windshield and recirculation aren't connected.
I've been back to the dealer since they wanted to replace the windshield. After my last post I noticed the dealer broke some trim pieces and glued them back into place. I went in and flipped shit. Plastic breaks, and stuff happens, but to hide it and glue it back together is inexcusable. Went to another dealer afterwards. They will not work on it until what was broke from the first dealer is fixed. Waiting on parts during the strike. I will say that I have played with the HVAC settings some more and my problem has specific requirements on the settings to replicate the sound and that kinda tells me the whole windshield stuff the first dealer told me was a bunch of bull. So far I have no answers.
So I finally made it to an appointment to have this checked out. They told me that they took to cowl off and checked the flapper and also took some inside dash trim off and used a stethoscope and determined that the noise is not from the HVAC system. They said there was a lot of wind noise at the bottom passenger corner of the windshield. And that changing the recirculate function is just changing the pressure in the cabin. So now they want to take the windshield out, inspect the area, and reseal the original windshield back.
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