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I have a 2019 ltz with the factory led headlights and have never liked them. I think they arent very bright and poor at lighting the side of the road. What options are available for these trucks? Is it as simple as getting a better led Bulb? I think the high country has hd led lights. Not even sure what the difference is. Hid kits? Thanks

Picked up my truck today from getting the rear window replaced and the seam sealer applied to the new window. Dealer did a good job. I haven't noticed anything messed up. Now to see how long it lasts without leaking. I did however notice that this window is not tinted as dark as the original. Original was 18.5% and this one says 22%. Can't really visually see it. Was curious if anyone that had theirs replaced had the same thing? I wasn't aware they made them in different tint percentages.

First time to dealer about the rear window leak. Visible cracks in slider frame inside from back seat. Initially dealer said they were going to pull out the window and reseal it. Told the service manager I wasn't happy with that due to the visible cracks and that they were fixing the symptoms and not the cause. Tech looked at it again with me and I pointed out the cracks. They are ordering a new window and having Safelite do the replacement.

Thank you. A lot of people like keeping their own ECM

The TCM has apparently been cracked by HHP on the T93 for the Camaro. Not sure if that applies to the Silverado or not. I believe it's the same controller and 10l80e. I've seen other comments on here about the T87a being unlocked but I don't think that is in any of the T1's

Read in another thread about the Diablo handheld now being available. Looks like Superchips and Edge have the same product also with pricing being slightly different. From what I've read on their sites the ECM has to be shipped in for modification just like HPTuners for access but it's still readable and flashable by GM for updates or whatnot. Does anyone know if you receive the same ECM back or is it an exchange like HP? Can GM tell it's been modified even though they can still read and flash it if returned to stock tune? All three tuners are powerteq brands, are they all the same tune?

So I had a micrometer put in the exhaust pipe today. O.D. of main pipe was 3.55 and O.D. of pipe where flappers are were 3.12. As far as using a full 3.5 delete pipe goes, the hanger behind the muffler is a problem because there is only about an inch of joint overlap for a clamp. Not sure how well that joint would seal and not have a leak. Welding the joint wouldn't be a problem but was trying to avoid that for ease of changing it out later on if I wanted. Haven't found a pre made delete kit that is full 3.5 anywhere. Anyone know of one?

2019 6.2 stock with 2 flappers. Wanting to do a muffler and flapper delete. Is the main pipe diameter 3.5 inch and then necks down to 3 inch for the flappers and muffler? Are most people connecting to the 3.5 or the necked down pipe? I've seen delete kits from magnaflow and aFe. They both appear to connect to the necked down pipe. I'd like to have the full 3.5 to the split at rear axle. Probably very minor difference but I don't see the point of the exhaust flowing from 3.5 to 3 back to 3.5

Been eyeing up some boost and exhaust options. Now looking at a meth kit as well. Who has done one and where are you mounting the tank? Does the 1 gallon AEM tank fit on the passenger side open fender area and is it too high? I'd rather not mount it in the bed.

I have talked to elite engineering. They admitted that some cans do it and others don't and they don't really know why. Which is concerning. They suggested trying to hook the lines together to pinpoint if it was a side effect of the lines or the can but I'm not going out and buying new fittings to hook them together. They then suggested taping them together. Ummmm. Ok. They also suggested shortening the hoses as much as possible, which I am going to do. But they have offered a refund if I'm not satisfied. So we will see. Haven't had time to mess with it the past few days.

It's difficult to tell exactly where the sound is coming from. I initially thought it was at the pcv connection point. I even took the can out of the mount while still hooked up to check it and it didn't seem to be coming from the can. After doing some searches this is apparently "normal" even though the consensus is that it comes from the can. I think it's really loud. Can hear it from 10 ft away. I don't like it at all. Will be calling elite engineering Monday and will see how good their customer service is.

Installed an Elite E2000 catch can on my 2019 6.2 today. Everything was pretty straight forward until I thought I was done and started it up. I can hear A LOT of vacuum sucking at the pcv/valve cover. The lines have a factory style snap on fitting at the pcv port and it is completely snapped on and seated. Anyone have any ideas of why I'm hearing this? I'm 99.9% sure it is installed correctly.

2019 6.2, extended cab, max tow 3.42 gears, 18" Michelin tires, completely stock. I average 18.5 mpg. Have seen it over 23 on flat highway driving at 70mph.

I have yet to get this issue straightened out. Dealer recalibrated the actuators but didn't help it. Haven't really played with my rear vents to see if that changes it.

Try turning on and off the recirculation for the climate control. Mine has a wind noise that I can make go away with the climate control settings

It's $150 less than Roto Fab. Found it for $335 on ebay. I had a K&N years ago on a 2002 Silverado and it served me well without issues. I seem to remember reading on here from someone that they suspected the K&N would require tuning where the Roto Fab does not. And I do believe the Dyno sheet they advertise is for the 6.2

Anyone have any experience or thoughts about the K&N 63-3109? I would like to add a CAI, and even though I don't expect much of a HP gain with any setup, I want to get a good option. I like the Roto-Fab but the K&N can be had for $150 less. The snap on lid of the K&N with the rubber grommets is questionable to me for some reason. If anyone can give feedback it would be appreciated.

I've been back to the dealer since they wanted to replace the windshield. After my last post I noticed the dealer broke some trim pieces and glued them back into place. I went in and flipped shit. Plastic breaks, and stuff happens, but to hide it and glue it back together is inexcusable. Went to another dealer afterwards. They will not work on it until what was broke from the first dealer is fixed. Waiting on parts during the strike. I will say that I have played with the HVAC settings some more and my problem has specific requirements on the settings to replicate the sound and that kinda tells me the whole windshield stuff the first dealer told me was a bunch of bull. So far I have no answers.

So I finally made it to an appointment to have this checked out. They told me that they took to cowl off and checked the flapper and also took some inside dash trim off and used a stethoscope and determined that the noise is not from the HVAC system. They said there was a lot of wind noise at the bottom passenger corner of the windshield. And that changing the recirculate function is just changing the pressure in the cabin. So now they want to take the windshield out, inspect the area, and reseal the original windshield back.

Truxedo ProX15 tonneau. I like it so far. The rails seemed to be just a bit short without a spray in liner. I adjusted them to the tailgate and put in a rubber/foam piece to take up the gap in the front to seal out water. Gaining like 2 mpg.

Agreed. Had the same issue. I still used the clips on the underneath drilled holes but I think it will be ok just used as a nut. I bought some longer stainless bolts in place of the rivets.

I think they're supposed to be 5 1/2 inches wide. I just stuck a 4 ft level up to them and the door is about an inch wider than the step at the body line. They visually are in line with the gm accessories mud flaps looking down the side. The installation was easy. Did it without a jack or lift. Pop out the plastic plugs in factory mount holes. Only thing I did differently than the install video was on the brackets. I only put the top bolt in loose before the step because they sit so close to the body that you won't be able to get the step in the bracket slots.

Not retractable. They are made in all black too. Ionic 41 series. Really nice for 250$