davis86t

Yes there is a bit of drone, mostly around 2K rpm depending on load, but it’s enjoyable for me, not bad at all. My wife doesn’t like it though. But she drives a Tesla so.. I personally hate too much rasp and it seems like with my setup I’m constantly feathering the throttle to reduce it. Unless It’s WOT — it screams like a drag car then, and it’s all worth it. Haha

Part number 40575 1 7/8 long tubes to X and dual 3” pipes with two Borla 40575 dumped before the axle. Here’s one that I think was a cold start if I remember correctly. I’ll get another driving one uploaded soon too.

I think the lowering struts have a stock setting. The MaxTrac struts did anyway… and they seem to be a copy of Belltech. Don’t quote me though, do your own research. I went with MaxTrac struts and there was a stock height setting. And they seem stiff to me. I can probably find the install manual if you want.

Sold the old crusty 22s. That put $1k towards the cam swap. Back to OEM 20s. It drives and feels much better with 20s to be honest. I still want another set of 22s though... At this point it is no longer my daily driver. I got a Chevy Volt because I'm driving a lot for work and it saves me money. So the truck gets to stay super clean and detailed 24/7 and stays inside. I take it out any chance I get when it's not rainy. So much easier to keep it clean that way.. any time I take it out it looks like it just came off the showroom floor.

2015 CCSB SLT Z71 6.2L MaxTrac Adjustable Drop Kit - K34170 from suspensionsuperstore.com 2" Spindles, Adjustable strut, Flip kit, Hanger, Rear shocks Sits perfectly for me at the 2" drop strut setting with the 2" drop spindles and rear set at 5" holes on the hangers. Did it all myself -- it can definitely be done without help but need a few beers. Rides a little rough for my taste, not much worse than stock. Will be upgrading to Viking coilovers in the front and helper bags in the rear - possibly a 4-link and coilovers for the rear in the future. Also would like to put TMW control arms on it. Can't decide if I want to do more power adders or dial in the suspension first....

I’m still going to have to install helper bags for when I haul or tow stuff. It rubs in the back wheel wells over big bumps if I don’t see it in time to slow down. Haven’t installed the bump stops yet. Front rubs worse on bumps and at full lock going forward and about half lock in reverse. Running 285/45/22 on replica wheels.

It’s part number K34170 at suspensionsuperstore.com 2” Spindles and adjustable struts set at 2” - so should be 4” in the front. Flip kit/hanger/shocks in the rear, hanger set at the 5” hole. Should be 4/5 but I haven’t measured since everything settled in. Had the strut set at 1” to start and it didn’t look right so pulled it back out and set it to 2”.

Finally dropped it... ?

That’s it for now, hopefully up next is some go-fast parts......

I went ahead and lowered it. Went with 4/5... 4” in the front and 5” in the rear, so I keep a bit of a rake. I prefer to have the rear just a bit higher than the front, and I think this gave me about a 1” difference. Removed the steps - cleaning them up and they will be for sale! Also went with the Borla multicores.. sounds amazing. It should —— $600 for mufflers..

Found the black AT grille online at a salvage yard, and the mirror caps and door handles are new OEM. I removed the pinstripes and door trim myself, and swapped in a used set of 22” honeycomb repros. The bumpers and window belt trim are wrapped. Planning on powder coating the bumpers and replacing the window trim with new black trim. Not a big fan of vinyl wrap because of the durability. Bump into it and you’ll slice right through to the chrome...

Not a good idea.