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PearlyWh1tes

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About PearlyWh1tes

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  1. Here I even underlined it for you. The only reason it says bracket style is because that’s the style lift they sell in 6” size . But you can put it directly in place of your factory struts as long as your lift can accommodate it which it can with the right control arms and spindle like I’ve been saying the whole time
  2. Dude just take a look for yourself right from rough country
  3. The 6” and 3.5” struts are built exactly the same dude the only difference is the shaft length. And that’s the 6” lift struts description that says it bolts onto factory mounts. I’m sure if you would just go read it you would see that
  4. Also the struts are direct bolt on so no other parts needed otherwise they wouldn’t offer them with their 3.5” lift kit, the 6” and 3.5” struts are exactly the same, only difference is the length of the shaft. Also they wouldn’t sell the 6 inch struts separately if that were the case, they would only offer them with a “bracket style lift” yes they do go on the bracket style lift but that’s not the only application for them. They can be used as direct bolt one for replacements struts to get rid of spacers, it literally says it in its description.
  5. That’s not the same lifted strut, the SKU is 500067 not 501067 so look again
  6. MaxTrac 6.5” lift 35x12.5r20 wheels with 1.75” wheel spacers. It will fit the stock 20” wheels and tires (275/65r20 tires) but if you want bigger tires you will rub the upper control arm without spacers if you go anything wider than 11” and will need at least a 1.5” wheel spacer if you do not want to have to trim your studs, I went with 1.75” wheel spacers just because I wanted to be sure. It has more room to where I can probably go up to a 37” tire no problem, maybe slight run at full lock. Taking out the strut spacer and using the 3.5 inch lifted struts literally does nothing different, the only difference is that instead of a strut spacer you just have an extended strut shaft to fill the gap, with the same if not better end result. And if you add the rough country upper control arms it allows for an additional 3 inches of room to work with which will make the ride a lot more smooth
  7. I’m telling you off you throw out the spacer and just use the rough country 3.5” lift strut it will be better. The strut bolts onto the stock pattern and keeps you from having to use the strut spacer
  8. It’s closer to about 3/8 an inch per side and isn’t noticeable at all Especially if you’re throwing on aftermarket wheels with a different offset anyway. I left on the stock wheels and it looks good
  9. Wrong, that’s why you buy the rough country control arms to correct ball joint angles and it comes out perfect, I have the exact setup on mine, and the ride quality is better than the regular MaxTrac lift setup which already includes the 3” strut spacer
  10. Just buy the MaxTrac 6.5 lift for an extra 120 bucks. And if you buy the rough country control arms And 6” extended struts you can have an overall 9.5” lift if you don’t add the 3 inch spacer that comes with the kit. You can sell it plus ride quality will be better. Also MaxTracs Kit doesn’t increase track width. It remains the same
  11. The One made by Lind works well! You can buy it straight from the dealership and it’s only $100. I painted mine to match and from 5 feet away you can barely tell it’s even there
  12. If you pull out the usb you can reach around and pushed it back in place and not have to take apart your dash lol, did it just the other day
  13. Wire it to the bcm and add in a potentiometer/dimmer switch before the first light
  14. Just did it today, wired it to the grey wire(the one not in the corner of the connector) connected to the door sensors on the white connector of the bcm, the lights come on when I open any door, and all for $25. As for dimming, you can wire in a potentiometer/dimmer switch directly into the loop of the lights wiring right before the first light if you really want the option.
  15. Footwell lights for $25 wired to come on with opening the doors
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