Slimsalabim

So, who do you need to grease to get this thing?

They would contact agreed they received it.

Strange, because that's exactly what we scanned the truck with. Perhaps it just captures the data, then they use the VDDS to analyze it? What's a vdds anyways? I can't find anything on it. Slim

I know we talked offline about getting the scanner on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/296191031859?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wqii6h_vrto&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=kA-lrmBkQD-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I went through my old photos and found pictures of the pinouts, so hopefully that can help. Slim

[email protected] That's the engineer you'll speak with. You'll need to rent the scan tool for several hundred dollars. The time waiting to receive and turn the scanner is the most annoying thing about these. Slim

Highway driving I get about 25 to maybe 30 miles if I really baby it. Just straight up driving 70 (these have an 80mph top speed), I get about 22 miles. For city driving (less than 40mph and lots of stopping), I've gotten as much as 37 miles, but I was really going for the best range I could. Typically, my city mileage is 30 miles. The light should be a steady green when the charging has completed. When the emission cycle begins, the engine turns on almost immediately. If you were charging, the gage would read about 2/3 - 3/4 full because the battery can't regen if it's 100%, so the system limits the power to 80% (I think) so it can regen while the generator (the gas engine) is running. Once the engine has been driven for the required amount of time, the generator will turn off and you should be on EV only. During this time, your battery charge should have remained the same. Once the battery charge reaches 20%, the generator will kick back on. Jim

The truck has to run an emissions cycle every 5 days if the engine hasn't been ran. Until the engine is driven for about 20 minutes (give or take 5 minutes and it has to be driven and not just idled), it will not charge past about 2/3 (depending on how your gage reads - this shows about 3/4ish on mine). So, if the truck wants to complete the emission cycle, it will not allow a full charge and will not run on ev only until it gets that drive time in. My truck only takes 2.5 hours to charge from empty on a level 2 charger. It sounds like your truck is functioning well! Slim

Man, that's great news! I love my truck and I'm glad I can cultivate the growth of information. They have their hiccups, but the company still supports them. The biggest issue is the logistics of your truck being down while you troubleshoot. My truck has been down a couple months and Via isn't sure why. It would fail to turn on the hybrid portion of the truck, but if you unplugged the hookups at the via fuse box and plugged them back in, the truck would function again. Well, not that doesn't work and the troubleshooting they have on file didn't solve the issue. Not sure if it's a battery issue or what. The system isn't throwing a code either. It sucks. I might have to pedal this down the road due to non related issues and it kills me. I have a Hail Mary of a fix in play right now. I've sent the hybrid control module into Via for them to test. Hopefully, they find something there and get me rolling again. Slim

You can send the pump to the address below ATTN-Repair. Besure to include a note inside with your contact info. Assuming all the internal hard parts are in good shape replacing the motor and seals is around $190.00. Meziere Enterprises 220 S Hale Ave Escondido, Ca 92029

Here's the document on checking the pump. Slim Vtrux Running Pumps WIthout Scan Tool (Truck).pdf

I've never seen a grey truck before. That's way cool. I've been fighting a few issues this year that I've failed to document so far. I'm glad you found this thread. It sounds like one of your oil pumps for the gear box may be failing. I had this happen to me earlier this year and it's easy to test. These are located on either side of the coolant pump. You can unplug the pigtail connection and just supply 12v to it. It should easily spin up. If not, you need a pump. It's $500 from the pump manufacturer or Via. If you have the time to let it sit, you can have the pump rebuilt for $200. Let me find the documentation for you. Slim

When I bought mine they told me these won't pass because they were made exempt from emissions (I'm assuming that's what you were trying to do?). Others haven't had any luck, but I would put it in M as well and try. They don't do emissions testing here in Minnesota. Slim

The SoC percentage would be nice to know and I'm not aware of how to do that. I believe the early versions had a screen (there's a photo of it on this thread) and that have the SoC reading your looking for. No idea if Via child provide that now. Slim

I understand now what you mean with the two motors. Makes sense. If a guy could fit a transmission in there somehow, it would do wonders for the trucks acceleration and top speed. Both leave a lot to be desired. If this thing can last me a few more years until I can afford a newer EV, I'll be happy. Slim

I only paid 20k for this truck. Another 3k was a risk I accepted when I purchased it. I routinely get 75-120mpg in the summer with this and about 35-45mpg in the dead of winter here in MN. I love this truck. Cost to repair is a relative thing. A new engine replacement on this truck (ICE truck) is $6700 as my co- worker just found out. A new transmission for a manual Toyota Scion is $6100. ****** on new cars is not cheap when you have to pay others to do it. Converting this into a standard ICE truck would be a fools errand. The time alone to do so would make purchasing a standard truck worth it. Let alone parts, especially a 6.2L and the emissions equipment. There's only one electric motor in the truck, not two. The generator, the motor, then the gearbox(?). I'm sure someone would want the equipment, but again, the time to remove it and store it until it sold hardly seems worth it. I'm happy to have created one spot where people can find information on these things to tackle issues themselves. I'll be investing in some more appropriate tools (lift and battery lift table) for future repairs. Thanks for all the research you've done and shared as well!!? Slim

Here's a link to the battery removal procedure: https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1XXZV49iR-8I96M1XYJ9f6kRRpwb7QzyG/edit?usp=drivesdk&ouid=115164390539392329881&rtpof=true&sd=true Getting the right to repair this was more work than I anticipated. Via Motors even had the dealership sign a liability release form before providing the procedure. The dealer's tech had no problem with the repair. There was moisture in the battery pack with is common in a high moisture climates. It probably doesn't help that I love puddle jumping during the winter thaw here in MN, so I'll have to dial that back. Via suggested to clean the o-ring and it's groove. There was corrosion on the top of the battery hold down plates, but nothing to worry about on the batteries themselves. Because there's no book time available for my truck, the dealership had to charge straight time of $175 for the 1st hour, then $230 after that. My buddy is a service writer there and only charged me $175/hr for the entire repair. They also only charged me 11 out of the 14 hours it really took. Total bill at the dealer was just shy of $2k. Add the parts and rental of the Via scanner brings the total for this repair to around $3k. Not cheap, but I knew this was the risk when I purchased this truck. The concern at this point is there's a yellow triangle warning light on now which indicates something is still wrong with the hybrid system. There's also 2 weird noises when the generator (the gas engine) is running. The truck drove home 25 miles without issue though, so I'm just going to see what happens at this point and hope the issues self resolve . Thanks to everyone for following along and adding information along the way. Slim

Apparently the truck was too heavy for the lift in the EV tech's bay, so they had to move it into a diesel bay with higher capacity lifts. Here's some pictures of the repair:

I got my parts and was able to convince Via Motors to allow me to have a dealership in town make the repair. Here's the parts as they came from Via:

That screen is crazy. I put an aftermarket in mine, but I it didn't monitor any battery stuff. Have you checked this place for batteries? https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/used-a123-pouch-modules.html

Approved EVSE List.pdf

Good catch. Updated it. They probably know I'm not using them to fix it so they bypassed that quote. Slim

Just got the quote a moment ago. Let's see if the attachment works. I've been having trouble all of a sudden. Slim

I'm waiting on the quote from them as well as the parts quote. I would absolutely change it myself, but pulling the battery safely at my house isn't going to happen. I'm also dealing with my '32 needing to get fixed after the suicide door flew open on me.

Yes and it also shows that contactor bundle as well. I think it's a great tool to visualize how everything in the pack is put together.

Charge System Inspection (Truck).pdf This is the procedure Via Motors sent me to troubleshoot the charging fault at first. When everything looked good according to this, the rented me their data logger. This plugs into the white ODB2 plug (this is under the gm ODB2 plug).