Desmo

I purchased the GM rear trailer camera kit (84876819) and I just have one question about the instructions. The instructions state that the mounting height for the camera on the back of the trailer should be the sum of the measurement form the ground to the center of the tailgate camera + 100mm(~3 15/16"). Should this measurement be taken with the tuck on flat ground with or without the trailer connected? It may not even matter, but I am assuming that the measurement form the ground to the tailgate camera should be taken with the trailer is hitched up to account for the squat. The instructions also state the the target area for camera mounting is a 400mm x 400mm square, with the ideal position in the center, so the squat may not even matter that much. Thoughts?

Back when this happened to me, I took it to the dealership. It sat there for 3 days until they told me the problem was related to my aftermarket power running boards plugged into the OBD2. Which is total BS, because when I picked it up the running boards were still plugged in and everything was working fine. It just needed to sit and dry out for a few days. Was cold weather here back when I had the windshield tinted. long story short: It just needs to dry out for a day or two, parked in the sun preferably. p.s. sorry for the late response.

Damn, that's double what they want to ship to me. Maybe they will do a quantity discount if you purchase more than one kit, to make the the shipping costs worth it. Also similar kits can be found on Ebay and Amazon. If you put enough miles on your truck, the dealership should offer some oil change packages where you pay ahead for a number of oil changes for a discount. Hopefully someday the Mobil1 DexosD 0w20 will be at Walmart ? Free shipping $80: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BS5HD1P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_pq93FbY0QJ7X6

This is my plan: https://dmaxstore.com/products/?route=product/product&path=2290_2493_3396&product_id=6490

So I got my truck back, two days at the dealership, but they only spent 30mins diagnostic time with it. Charged me $150 for diagnostics and loaner vehicle. Their theory was that the OBD2 connection for the aftermarket power running boards was interfering with the system. They said once it was disconnected that everything worked and suggested that I drive around for a few weeks with the running boards disconnected to test the theory. However, when I picked up the truck the running boards were hooked up and working, and no more fob/gauges/turn signal/infotainment issues, everything works. For now, i suppose. My theory is, like everyone else with issues after tinting the windows, that when it dries out everything is fine. The dealership just wanted to blame the aftermarket stuff. I have everything hooked up and running perfectly, time will tell. Issues after tinting on the HD forum: https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/236823-key-fob-transmitter-faulty/ Similar issues with Mercedes: https://www.mercedescla.org/threads/keyless-go-not-working-after-tinting-windows.21122/

After further research is looks like it is common for the fob to stop working after getting windows tinted. The rear window or windshield may have antennas for the fob. Either the film or the liquids used on install disrupt the signal, usually just for a day or so until things dry up. But doesn't explain why the gauges, turn signals or radio are not working.

Same issue here, just had windows tinted, including the windshield. But my gauges, radio and turn signals stopped working too.

Well, it's at the dealership... again. Went to pick my truck up form getting the windows tinted, the shop said everything had gone well, no problems with the truck. But the fob would not work the door locks, message when I tried to start the truck said there was no remote detected. I placed the fob between the cupholders on the programming sensor to get the truck started. Then no radio, gauges all dead, no turn signals, and every service system message in the book. It's at the dealership... stay tuned. I have the auto stop eliminator and aftermarket retracting running boards, how likely is it that they will screw me on the warranty?

Yeah, cargo trailers are like parachutes. Good luck on your trip, I bet as long as you're not in a hurry and just take it easy the DEF usage will be manageable. Pack extra DEF, it can't hurt. This concerns me, does more DEF injection mean less emissions or did someone at GM do the math wrong? If I got triple the DEF range when I was towing, I'd be very happy. But so many factors to consider, fuel, load, engine management... Maybe towing the same thing, the load on the 6.6 would be less which makes the 3.0 a DEF guzzler.

I just did a round trip from Salt Lake City to San Diego, towing a 7x16 cargo trailer. My MPG ranged from 9-12 when towing at 75MPH and I got around 15 when towing at 55-60MPH. I did not calculate DEF usage, but it was horrible. I assumed that if I topped off before the trip that I would make it back, but not even close. When I got to SD the warnings started to appear, so I added 2.5 gallons of DEF, the gauge then read full. On the way back, more steep uphill climbs, I was not taking it easy, I wanted to really test the LM2, by Mesquite NV more warnings and the gauge showed one red bar. Assuming that the tank was empty I purchased two 2.5 gal. jugs at Walmart and after about 3 gallons in the tank overflowed. Arriving back home the gauge was down a only a few bars (1/2 to 3/4 tank), but after taking it out of tow mode and putting a few miles on it the warnings came back. I added my remaining DEF from the overflow situation and still had to run errands all day before the thing realized there was enough DEF or the estimated miles to empty DEF was back to normal. My take-away, the "calculated" gauge and warnings based on estimated miles of DEF are a joke. The consumption seems reasonable but whats the point of a 5+ gallon DEF tank that you only get to put 3 gallons into before the truck turns itself into a paperweight... Seems like a flaw or bad programming or bad design from GM, hopefully they realize this and a recall on the tank/sensor or a software update is coming. Next long towing trip, I'm packing a couple jugs of BlueDEF. and I'll keep my speed closer to 70MPH and keep my foot out of it on the hills. Overall, wow, the power of this 3L DMAX (backed by the 10L80) is impressive, no drama towing, just set the cruise and watch for the other dummies on the road.

I pulled a friends 26' Heartland-Mallard (6,000-7,000lbs not sure) a few hundred miles, had some decent grades to pull up, 55-60mph flooring it. I am totally satisfied with the torque of the 3.0 vs my previous 5.7 HEMI. Although the 3.0 loaded will not win any drag races nor will it pass many big rigs when climbing. The payoff is the 10-speed shifts smooth and smart, so when it shifts (it shifts alot, always trying to find the good torque) you barely feel it and with the low rpm power make the whole experience drama-free. If you want fast and uphill then go with an HD and the big DMAX.

I think these are from a Chevy Cobalt

The rear seat belts are pretty high at the shoulder, it's annoying for shorter rear passengers when it cuts into their neck instead of going over their shoulder. Short-term fix has been a seat belt pad from Auto Zone. Long term, a seat belt guide that attaches to the headrest bars would be nice. Anyone know of a universal option? Or if someone is into 3D printing you could make a small fortune i think. I will try getting one from another vehicle/brand and modifying/adding holes to fit the headrest. Stay tuned. For example:

My LM2 had this code, dealer performed a service on recall N202300791 to reflash the ECU or module that controls the DEF injection. They also replaced the failed sensor. I only have a few miles on the truck since this fix, hopefully the CEL stays away.