Jump to content

FirstAscent

Member
  • Content Count

    555
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

FirstAscent last won the day on June 13

FirstAscent had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

198 Excellent

About FirstAscent

  • Rank
    Enthusiast
  • Birthday January 18

Profile Information

  • Name
    Array
  • Location
    Array
  • Gender
    Array
  • Drives
    Array

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Yes you can install in a duramax no problem. I did in mine. Btw, the factory doesn’t really install much for you, you still have to do 98% by yourself (or pay a shop). All the factory does is install the knee bolster with the switches in there (not wired) so it only saves a little time.
  2. [edit] oops wrong forum, below info is incorrect. I follow the 1500 and HD forums haha. Yeah 4” would be pushing it!! I have the 3/2 leveling kit running basically 35x13 on a 22x10 wheel with a minus -18 offset with no rubbing. Minor trimming of course but it’s for sure minor. These trucks fit 35’s pretty well
  3. The compressor can be controlled wirelessly from a dedicated display on the ARB Linx the I have mounted near the steering wheel. But just in case anything were to happen, I can also manually activate the compressor with a hard switch The door closes with just enough room to spare! This is my air solenoids that control my air bags. Again, this is wirelessly controlled from the dedicated display to any PSI I want Backseat removed prepping for running two air lines from the compressor to the exterior 1 air line the splits into two for the rear air bags 1 air line that will run to the rear foot step in the rear bumper for standard compressor use with a quick connect female fitting I didn't get a photo of it but there are now two air lines running through the floor just like this one. The air line from the solenoid goes to my airbags The airline with the blue/red fitting goes to the rear bumper BTW, this fusebox is the SafetyHub 150, it supports both ATC and Midi fuses! I needed both and this does it all, it's super solid and well built too! This is a female quick connect fitting for connecting any male quick connect fittings to for filling up tires, toys, whatever. This is what the dedicated display from the ARB Linx looks like. Notice all the ARB wiring in the background, I got rid of all of this and made my own harness that only included what I needed and the exact lengths! From this screen I can turn the compressor on or set my PSI for my air bags and create different settings as well (unloaded, towing trailers, hauling various loads etc) If anyone has any questions, let me know. I had a lot of fun with this project!
  4. Hey everyone, I wanted to share my version of a custom onboard air compressor install with full custom wiring harnesses too!. There's of course many ways to do this so maybe this will help some of you if you're considering something similar. I first want to specifically thank @Limelight and @mkeddie as I've taken some of my ideas from them. I used a similar mounting location as @Limelight, and @mkeddie had a great upfitter post that gave me the perfect solution for running an air line from inside the cab to the bed of the truck in a clean fashion. So, thank you guys! I've always wanted onboard air for various reasons, but now I "needed" a solution because I just installed airbags for the first time but I didn't want a compressor that was only dedicated to the air bags, I wanted to be able to use it for whatever I want whether filling up truck tires, or mountain bike tires, or float tubes, or whatever! I opted for the ARB Twin Compressor (Part # CKMTA12) because it will give me good output and let's be honest, it looks pretty cool too! I spent quite a bit of time determining the best location, for me, to mount it. I considered just about everywhere including under the body/bed, in the engine bay, in the truck bed and finally settled on mounting it in the larger factory GM rear underseat storage. Now to decide on the wiring and general function/control that I want since it will all play together differently depending on how I wire things. I also wanted room for change and/or additions in the future so I knew I wanted a fuse box. I knew I wanted the to use a solenoid that would enable the new fuse box entirely with Accessory (ACC) power instead of having individual relays for anything connected to the fuse box. Going this route also means I need a solenoid that can handle larger loads. I found a Stinger SGP32 200amp solenoid, and the just about PERFECT place to mount it. These two bolts are almost perfectly spaced to mount the solenoid, this in is in the engine bay kind of on the inside of the front passenger fender. The tabs on the Stinger solenoid were already cut out for mounting bolts in them but I had to slightly cut them out a little deeper so that the spacing would fit the existing bolts shown above. The factory body panel bolts have permanent washers, but there was just enough play in them to slide the mounting tabs in between the bolt head and washer, PERFECT. You can see the body panel is somewhat indented at the mounting point as well, to fill that space to the bolt can be tightened down properly I just added a couple washers beneath it. Here it is wired up, 4 wires total. 1 wire to the ground lug you can see in this photo The smaller black wrapped wire is my ACC power wire to enable it that runs across the engine bay to the driver side and through a rubber nipple in the firewall to the BCM The large red power wire is fused to the secondary battery (I have dual batteries) Then there is one more wire that runs through the firewall and back to the rear seat where my fuse box is. btw: I hand wrapped these wires with tape for wire harnesses, took forever! haha This larger black wire connected to the MEGA 125A fuse (with green text) is coming from the solenoid. This spot is meant for the factory snow plow power, but I won't ever have a snow plow, so perfect use of good space! This is me prepping the power wire before connecting it to the solenoid This is the other end of the positive wire from the solenoid that went through the firewall, along the door sills, and then I cut a little bit out for the wire to come out of the rear passenger door seal to under the rear seat. Clean routing of the power wire from the solenoid to the battery Here you can see it start to come together. The purple wire is the power wire from the solenoid to my fuse box Remember this entire fuse box will be enabled by ACC power. On the top right of the fuse box you can see the main ground wire, it is grounded to the body near the factory jack. The black box on the left mounted vertically is an ARB Linx, I'm using this for control of my compressor, air bags, and future I/O expansion. This is that ground wire, I had to slightly drill out the whole that was already existing to fit the 1/0 AWG wire Here is how I'm going to connect it to the factory threaded stud that secures the jack I got the Dremel out to take the black paint off the surface of where the ground point would be.
  5. Sad! The first one always hurts the worst, glad it’s behind you now. Sorta, it’s not fixed yet
  6. Where are you coming from, inside the engine bay or from the bed area? If inside the engine bay there are two decent locations with existing rubber grommets/nipples in the firewall. One in the driver side and one in the passenger side. There are good photos on this referring to the upfitter switch install.
  7. Lowering it to 4” is pushing it I’d think. Maybe 5” so raising your front end 1” but 4 seems like a little much. They are meant for 6” length, so what you see in the photo is 6” setting.
  8. Ah that makes sense, end result is still the same though. I saw that but I meant I hope there will be a way for the current 2020’s to have it, not 2021 [emoji6]
  9. Probably not but I hope some type of upgrade will be available for the 2020’s. I’m not getting my hopes up though. Anyone have any insights/guesses in to why there are two different gooseneck / 5th wheel packages? Aka Denali and High Country has a different code.
  10. Thank you!! Your instructions helped tremendously. Have all the room I need now to drill holes for my air lines [emoji1690] Not having to remove the seat just the back is a huge plus.
  11. I removed the icon stuff because I sold the truck, I’m selling all the icon stuff separately since I knew I’d lose out big time if I sold the truck with it all haha. If you went with the 4” and increased preload to raise it to 5” it would make the ride worse, not terrible, just worse. Not sure about doing a 6” and lowering it to 5” though. Give bds a call or even call Icon too, they’re great for answering questions.
  12. BDS 6” kit with custom Icon coilovers, I’ve since removed all the Icon components because I sold the truck but I was very happy with it especially with the adjustable damping (CDCV). More in control and less bouncy.
  13. I do not but agree it’s quite ridiculous since it’s only $50 for FOUR if ordered from factory.
  14. I think I’m good. According to this brochure I found it says the advanced trailer package is standard on high country and includes the TPMS module. Not to be confused with the TPMS Sensors which I would still need to buy, but the functionality is there.
  15. Great info, although very odd if that’s accurate. I see quite a few trucks without the PTT option. There’s gotta be a way to still add that functionality especially because these trucks are meant for towing and hauling. Now it makes me wonder about mine. I have the trailering app but my truck didn’t come with PTT from factory, I have a silverado high country. But I fully intend to add 6 TPMS to my fifth wheel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.