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JR, thanks for mentioning it is a Phoenix Popup.

Well here are a few pictures. For some of the pictures the roof is fully deployed while the others it is only halfway. The camper came with a stainless steel covered table top but I am also trying a bamboo.

Had some time free today to take a picture of the camper on the truck. I want to thank all for your helpful input. You provided the advice that I needed.

Much better. I see the ground strap from the second battery to the frame which would be a good one and might work. Then the bolt going through the second battery plastic tray looks good as it is bolted through a metal bracket and would be easier for the cable going back to the B-B charger. I am slowly starting to understand the methods GMC uses to wire the truck. Still working on the upfitter documentation with horrible diagrams and somewhat useful wiring diagrams. Thanks!

Been prepping truck for camper. Amazed at the size of the truck. For the first time in many years I had to get a soft fender cover to prevent scratching while reaching in to work on stuff. I find it a pain to get to some of the connections on the firewall short of building a platform over the engine. To make it easier...does anyone know the thread size of the ground bolt on the driver side near the area that the upfitter cable feeds into the cabin? The near mirror image on the passenger side serves as the ground point for the batterry. It is very hard to access. Thanks

I asked this question another thread but the answer may be within this group. I have the upfitter switches installed and working. Now I am trying to figure out how best to fasten a t-fuse holder and a relay in the engine compartment. From there to the truck bed is not a problem. Which locations and mounting methods have worked best for others? I am using a Blue Sea Systems 5502 Class T Fuse Block and a relay. Thanks

I have the upfitter switches installed and working. Now I am trying to figure out how best to fasten a t-fuse holder and a relay in the engine compartment. From there to the truck bed is not a problem. Which locations and mounting methods have worked best for other? I am using a Blue Sea Systems 5502 Class T Fuse Block and relay. Thanks

One of the bags of parts left in my new truck was (124x) - Radio HVAC IPC Blank Out When Operating A Snow Plow wiring harness. I talked to the dealer but they can't find anything related to my 2022 wiring system. Does anyone have experience with this?

There is another way to install the inside of the cabin components of the upfitter switches that did not involve doing anything to the kick panel. This may only apply to my truck version but it seems to have worked and was fast. I looked at the rear of the switch cluster with a scope and then decided it was simply held in the kick panel with spring like clips. Pulling very gently from the front with my fingers while pushing down on the 4 clips, the switch cluster was easily removed. One could use the plastic sticks that are made to open a tablet or phone so there is no chance of damaging the cluster. There are 2 clips on the top and 2 on the bottom. They are spring-like so pushing down to compress will allow them to pass through the panel. Then connect the appropriate switch cable: and finally insert back into the kick panel: Everything else documented in the beginning of this thread was followed to connect the power feed from the engine compartment to the switch controller. Right now the hardest step is finding the correct size screws to mount the controller so it is temporarily supported with wire ties as used by others.

So it appears that the kick panel still has to be removed, or at least partially removed. I will have to see if I can borrow a scope to look up there and try to connect without doing that when I have some time. The metal support brackets are blocking my field of view.

Do you remember if there was a socket on the back of the switch cluster that took one of the cables from the fuse box?

This is really a great discussion on installing the upfitter switches. I just got my 2022 3500 that was ordered with the kit as an option. Much to my surprise I found the switch cluster was already installed in the knee bolster and now just the wiring remains. After actually reading the UI Bulletin I see that the 2500/3500 have the knee bolster with the switch cluster installed during the build. So the relay/fuse box and power cable remain to be installed. The cables from the fuse box can be easily connected to the power cable and the 14-pin connector Aux Fuse Block. But, I can't see the connector on the back of the switch cluster for the 16-pin switch bank connector. How do I install that connector? I find it hard to believe, but not impossible, that the switch cluster would be installed in the knee bolster at the factory, but then would have to be removed to install that one connector. Can the switch cluster be pulled/pushed out to expose the connector or would that damage it? Thanks for any help.

I was considering thin walled metalic tubing but now that I actually have the truck, I see that the need to make a lot of bends to follow around the obstacles on the passenger side. The aluminum armor flex conduit would make that easy. I was hoping that there would be more gaps to thread wire ties but it is surprisingly free of holes along the run. Just want it safe and away from possible contact with tall brush. Thanks

I did order the 2nd alternator and battery. In this case, the camper has a lithium system that can take a lot of current. I am starting out with a 60amp battery to battery charger and if necessary there is room for a second.

I finally got the truck! New question, what's the best way to route a couple 1/0 cables under the truck to the truck bed? Should I use metal conduit or loom? Thanks