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Hi, Sounds like a great use of the truck. I went through the process a couple years ago and ended up with a GMC 2022 3500, 8' bed, SRW and double cab. Also chose not to get the fancy tailgate. My camper extends to the rear lights. So I remove the tailgate when using the camper. This requires a wrench to remove the bolts at the end of the tailgate cable fastened to the truck bed. I will on occasion use a makeshift support beneath the opened tailgate but just holding it up by leaning into it is not a problem. Prior to removing the 2 bolts I disconnect the snap connection to the camera located underneath near a cluster of other cables. I also remove a multi-pin connector that has a lever clamp with slide lock and located a little further front from the camera connector. At this time I reinsert a dummy connector and lock it in place (aftermarket part). Then I remove the tailgate trying to carefully pull the 2 cables with their end connectors through the hole in the sheet metal. At this time I route the cable from a different camera (aftermarket) through that hole and connect to the connector used by the tailgate camera. For now I just have a simple wooden extension from the hole to the aftermarket camera and have found it to be sufficient; no need to mount on the camper. When ordering the camper I believed the double cab longbed would be too long so was focused on crew. But to get most of the options I required I had to get the double. Well, I believe I am happy to say it was a good choice. The back seat is a giant junk drawer. Many long messy objects and fly fishing equipment go there so I need not mess-up the camper. I wanted SRW because fishing often requires traveling on gravel/rock rough roads. Check the discussion groups and you will find many people talk about the problems of trapped rocks and mud between the wheels. I also made sure to get the 18" sized wheels that allow the use of chains or so I hope as I may have to use them for a possible late year trip in the snow. Enjoy your setup and post pics when done.

OOPS, wrong thread. I thought this was the discussion on my old Triumph car. I use to think that I did not have to change the oil, just add to replace.

Just wait for the gasket leaks and those parts will be covered with black dirty oil. HA HA

I am back trying to find a reasonable option for a front mounted winch. Reasonable for me is one not requiring replacing the current front body parts. So far I have found, as has been mentioned, GMC trucks are not popular with aftermarket providers. I want to think that is because they are so good nothing is needed.... Has anyone tried what appears to be a bolt-on system by WARN? A reply from them for my 2022 3500HS SLE was this: .... The only system I show compatible with your vehicle is our Gen III Trans4mer, this is a modular system so there are two required pieces to run the bumper system, the rest are optional, please see the PN’s below. Required: Bracket Kit, PN: 108003 Winch Mounting Kit, PN: 107650 Optional: Center Grille Guard: 102957 Full Grille Guard: 106595 As for compatible winches, the largest winch you would be able to run on this unit is going to be the Zeon 12, other compatible winches would be as follows: The Zeon & Zeon Platinum line The VR EVO lline 9.5xp XD9 & XD9I M8 ..... Has anyone tried this or know something about it other than it is expensive? Thanks, Pat

I have an appointment for the install scheduled next week.

I am starting to look for a winch. Any suggestions for a very simple one? Not excited about replacing the front bumper nor need anything fancy. Just simple install, next to no modification of the front and no loss of ground clearance. I guess that if I am asking for everything...then why not free. Thanks

JR, thanks for mentioning it is a Phoenix Popup.

Well here are a few pictures. For some of the pictures the roof is fully deployed while the others it is only halfway. The camper came with a stainless steel covered table top but I am also trying a bamboo.

Had some time free today to take a picture of the camper on the truck. I want to thank all for your helpful input. You provided the advice that I needed.

Much better. I see the ground strap from the second battery to the frame which would be a good one and might work. Then the bolt going through the second battery plastic tray looks good as it is bolted through a metal bracket and would be easier for the cable going back to the B-B charger. I am slowly starting to understand the methods GMC uses to wire the truck. Still working on the upfitter documentation with horrible diagrams and somewhat useful wiring diagrams. Thanks!

Been prepping truck for camper. Amazed at the size of the truck. For the first time in many years I had to get a soft fender cover to prevent scratching while reaching in to work on stuff. I find it a pain to get to some of the connections on the firewall short of building a platform over the engine. To make it easier...does anyone know the thread size of the ground bolt on the driver side near the area that the upfitter cable feeds into the cabin? The near mirror image on the passenger side serves as the ground point for the batterry. It is very hard to access. Thanks

I asked this question another thread but the answer may be within this group. I have the upfitter switches installed and working. Now I am trying to figure out how best to fasten a t-fuse holder and a relay in the engine compartment. From there to the truck bed is not a problem. Which locations and mounting methods have worked best for others? I am using a Blue Sea Systems 5502 Class T Fuse Block and a relay. Thanks

I have the upfitter switches installed and working. Now I am trying to figure out how best to fasten a t-fuse holder and a relay in the engine compartment. From there to the truck bed is not a problem. Which locations and mounting methods have worked best for other? I am using a Blue Sea Systems 5502 Class T Fuse Block and relay. Thanks

One of the bags of parts left in my new truck was (124x) - Radio HVAC IPC Blank Out When Operating A Snow Plow wiring harness. I talked to the dealer but they can't find anything related to my 2022 wiring system. Does anyone have experience with this?

There is another way to install the inside of the cabin components of the upfitter switches that did not involve doing anything to the kick panel. This may only apply to my truck version but it seems to have worked and was fast. I looked at the rear of the switch cluster with a scope and then decided it was simply held in the kick panel with spring like clips. Pulling very gently from the front with my fingers while pushing down on the 4 clips, the switch cluster was easily removed. One could use the plastic sticks that are made to open a tablet or phone so there is no chance of damaging the cluster. There are 2 clips on the top and 2 on the bottom. They are spring-like so pushing down to compress will allow them to pass through the panel. Then connect the appropriate switch cable: and finally insert back into the kick panel: Everything else documented in the beginning of this thread was followed to connect the power feed from the engine compartment to the switch controller. Right now the hardest step is finding the correct size screws to mount the controller so it is temporarily supported with wire ties as used by others.

So it appears that the kick panel still has to be removed, or at least partially removed. I will have to see if I can borrow a scope to look up there and try to connect without doing that when I have some time. The metal support brackets are blocking my field of view.

Do you remember if there was a socket on the back of the switch cluster that took one of the cables from the fuse box?

This is really a great discussion on installing the upfitter switches. I just got my 2022 3500 that was ordered with the kit as an option. Much to my surprise I found the switch cluster was already installed in the knee bolster and now just the wiring remains. After actually reading the UI Bulletin I see that the 2500/3500 have the knee bolster with the switch cluster installed during the build. So the relay/fuse box and power cable remain to be installed. The cables from the fuse box can be easily connected to the power cable and the 14-pin connector Aux Fuse Block. But, I can't see the connector on the back of the switch cluster for the 16-pin switch bank connector. How do I install that connector? I find it hard to believe, but not impossible, that the switch cluster would be installed in the knee bolster at the factory, but then would have to be removed to install that one connector. Can the switch cluster be pulled/pushed out to expose the connector or would that damage it? Thanks for any help.

I was considering thin walled metalic tubing but now that I actually have the truck, I see that the need to make a lot of bends to follow around the obstacles on the passenger side. The aluminum armor flex conduit would make that easy. I was hoping that there would be more gaps to thread wire ties but it is surprisingly free of holes along the run. Just want it safe and away from possible contact with tall brush. Thanks

I did order the 2nd alternator and battery. In this case, the camper has a lithium system that can take a lot of current. I am starting out with a 60amp battery to battery charger and if necessary there is room for a second.

I finally got the truck! New question, what's the best way to route a couple 1/0 cables under the truck to the truck bed? Should I use metal conduit or loom? Thanks

I posted this on the 2019 thread but should have done it here: Is there a way to find out the name of the delivery company that holds the contract to transport my truck from Flint to the dealer?

Is there a way to find out the name of the delivery company that holds the contract to transport my truck from Flint to the dealer?

This discussion has been very helpful. So if I understand correctly, the 200 amp circuit has no electrical connection to the 5 upfitter switches. The upfitter switches are accessed through the added installed internal fuse box when the upfitter kit is installed. And to use the 200 amp connection one should connect to it to an external relay (say a BlueSea 9012) that could be controlled by powering it's coil through an upfitter switch by connecting it's coil to the fuse for that switch in that internal fuse box.

Thank you! I have been unable to find a long bed at any dealer near me.