RNAV

So here's how wireless CarPlay works. TL/DR: It operates via a discrete wifi; your phone cannot be connected to two different wifi networks simultaneously. Turn truck on Phone pairs to truck via bluetooth Truck sends bluetooth signal to phone saying, "Bro, why don't you go over here and join my discrete wifi. Don't tell your friends tho." Phone connects to truck's discrete wifi; Apple CarPlay operates over this discrete wifi Phone does not display a wifi signal at all Discrete wifi (i.e. CarPlay wifi) and the truck's 4G LTE WiFi are two separate networks Phone displays the cellular data network to which it is connected. Your cellular data network is how your phone gets data, and in turn, how any services work (i.e. streaming content, such as Pandora) on CarPlay. You can't connect to your truck's wifi and run wireless CarPlay simultaneously because your phone can only be connected to one wifi network at a time. Some thoughts. First, your truck's wifi is basically a cell phone data plan turned into a hotspot. So, it'd be like using your cell phone to create a hotspot, then connecting all your family's devices to that hotspot. Know what'll happen? All your devices will have slow data, because they're going through only a single hotspot which has limited bandwidth. If your devices have their own cellular data plan, they'll be much faster using that versus all connecting to the truck wifi. You should really only use the truck's wifi for devices that don't have cellular data. Second, even if you could connect your phone to your truck's wifi AND run CarPlay simultaneously, you wouldn't want to due to limited bandwidth (see first thought).

That's interesting. Thanks!

I'd like to figure out a way to have a 12V power source near my rear bumper, and I'm hoping you fine folks could come up with some innovative suggestions. I have a 12V tire inflator that I use to inflate my horse trailer tires. The tire inflator uses clamps to clamp onto the positive/negative battery terminals under the hood (similar to jumper cables). Due to the available inflator power cable length and hose length, I have to pull my truck nose-first to the trailer in order to be able to reach the trailer tires. Then I've got to flip the truck around to hook up the trailer. I've considered longer cable / air hose, but neither will not fit in my existing inflator storage bag (and risks not being able to fit in rear under-seat storage). I'd also like to avoid having to pop the hood altogether -- I'd rather just back up to the trailer and have a 12V power source in the rear to which I can connect the inflator power leads. I've also considered getting a 110V AC tire inflator, but they all seem pretty crappy and why buy another inflator when the one I've got works great? I realize I can simply run some power leads directly from the battery to the rear bumper, but I'd prefer a more finished factory-like solution. Also concerned about having bare cable leads exposed to the elements. What are your ideas?

I hooked up my '21 SLT Duramax to my horse trailer and the trailer brakes aren't working. Sanity check me here: I took my multimeter to pins 1 (ground) and 2 (brake control) on the truck's 7-pin connector. I had my wife depress the brakes, set the gain to 10, and depress the manual lever. Regardless of gain setting, manual lever position, or brakes on/off, the voltage was constantly flipping between 0.9V and 1.2V. Am I correct in understanding that the brake controller is not working?