savagebob

I thought all Gen 2 had a hill hold function, even the automatics. My owner's manual has instructions for use on my Z71. I live in Flat Florida so don't ask how it works. hehe

GM does not use Molex connectors on 2nd Gen Collie/Canyon.

Simple answer is yes. I have Canyon assemblies in my 2015 Collie. It was a long time ago that I did the swap, but I remember that one locating post was slightly different in the GMC version but the mounting screws hold it in place well. 6 years later and all is well and still looks sharp. You might have to swap some posts over if you get used lenses so don't give up your old ones until the GMC assemblies are mounted.

If a couple of months passed after changing the battery, and there were no starting problems in that 2 month period, then all bets are off as to what the problem could be. Like I stated above, the diagnosis is not difficult if carried out in a logical progression, with simple electrical checks with only a voltmeter and a couple of jumper wires.

. The simple basic things to do that precede simple voltmeter checks are to hold the key in the full start position whenever it will not crank (no starter rotation) and wiggle the shift lever in park (even when locked in park). If the engine starts cranking when wiggling the shifter, then the issue lies in the trans selector circuit. Try it in neutral when it is acting up and see if that cures it. Ignition switches also can cause quite a few intermittent no crank problems. Proper electrical diagnosis is a logical progression and doesn't care about any assumptions about previous repairs. Those will only cloud the logical diagnosis. Cranking problems can be diagnosed quickly if the problem is present when diagnosing. Voltage drop tests and the wire wiggle test can help to find intermittent issues. Sounds like you need a more technical technician.

Tires "grow" at higher speeds. That is the only explanation for greater inaccuracies at speed. More pressure will make them more stable. We found that (on some higher power sports cars) lo profile tires would get more center tread wear with LOWER tire pressure at elevated highway speeds. That is the opposite of what is commonly agreed upon by the industry. Pumping them up to the 40s cured the center wear and stabilized the tire more.

Test the RF bags by bringing the bagged fob close to the truck and see if you can unlock or start it. I haven't tried it but I have 2 thick coffee bags that have aluminum lining in them. They might work well and are free.

It is most likely the electrical connections at the PS rack. The connectors are exposed to the rain water and road spray and can get corroded. There have been numerous recalls with the latest being for 2015 Colorado and Canyon. All of the electric PS racks are similar and share the same problems. You can clean the connectors and add some Dielectric grease to the older connectors, but the dealers have more permanent connector repairs available.

The VIN won't help except for a standard key code. They won't need to read it. The RF remote broadcasts a weak signal, but a thief with a proper receiver/cloning circuit will receive that signal from the transmitter either when you are exiting the truck or while it is in your house. Their equipment is very sensitive and can find a transmitter quite a distance inside of your house. Best defense is to get a RF shielding bag or just wrap all vehicle transmitters in aluminum foil. Even a vehicle in your garage is not safe because they can clone the transmitter and wait till one day you leave it outside for a few minutes. Similar results with garage door openers. It is similar technology that allows a garage door opener built in to your truck "learn" the code from a portable door opener. Once your truck is stolen by a professional "ring" it will likely be shipped out of the country or go to a chop shop and parts sold to shady body shops after the VIN markings are removed. That is why car manufacturers imprint every control unit with the vehicle VIN. The electronics won't work in another vehicle. Another thing that can happen is that a parking valet (or service shop) can program another transmitter to your truck, and look up your address from registration in your glovebox. Your ECM has the capacity to learn at least 4 separate transmitters. Some fleet vehicles can learn many more.

Not that I have ever seen in the wiring diagrams. Trans selector position is communicated over data lines to necessary modules. Best bet is to get WAMS to do some custom programming that mimics the factory control for the parking sensors. You might be able to snatch a hot lead of of one of the outside lighting components such as DRL that shut off in park.

Did you buy the truck used? Sounds like someone installed a motorcycle brake light flash warning circuit in there. The high mounted center stop light is on its own circuit, not directly tied to the L and R stop lights.

You need to drill through the blank areas of the door plug where there are no wires. You could drill both the A pillar and the door and install grommets in another location from the factory harness.

No audio wires under back seat.

There is no audio from the radio. It is just data. Without aftermarket interfaces, you must use existing line out (speaker wires) from the Bose amp. If you need full range you will have to use rear speaker out. Most modern aftermarket amps have a high level input also.

You won't be able to integrate it into the factory display. Just get one for home use with batteries. Mount the wireless sensor in the bed area so it is protected and stick the readout somewhere with double sided tape. Most of those are off until you push a button so batteries should last a year or more.