greenoliver1

I think I’m going to give the Ruthenium plugs a try. If they last longer then they’re worth the extra $1.50 a plug to me, any other benefit, if any, is just a bonus after that.

Hi folks, I’m wondering if anyones used the NGK Ruthenium plugs in an L83 5.3 engine. Need to do plugs and wires in the future, and wasn’t sure if the Ruthenium plugs were worth the extra $$$, or if I should just go with the factory Iridium plugs?

I want to add 2 small LED lights to my backrack on my 2015 Silverado LT. Got the lights, harness with relay and switch. I’ve installed them on late 90’s Chevys that had a AUX power supply at fuse box under hood. Do these style trucks have an AUX power hookup? Or do I need to run my power wire straight to the battery? Thanks for the help!

i mostly want it for work, where my boat ties up is maybe at most 150 feet away from where I park my truck. But it seems to only work about 50/50, even from the house it’s that way, where it’s about 35 feet. I don’t mind tearing my truck apart to make it function the way it’s intended, I’ve been driving and fixing anything besides serious internal engine/trans/driveline stuff. I don’t mind doing it, it’s just a matter of figuring out why the range is poor and fixing it to me. I’d rather do that than subscribe to onstar, it’s just frustrating the old school remote starts on my 97’ and 98’ K1500 Silverados works fine from even 500 feet, but the 15‘s range is horrible. I’ve got an aftermarket key fob and someday I’m going to see if I get better range with that over the factory one. Probably won’t, but I wanted a 3rd key set anyways haha

i tried replacing the batteries with ones from a different batch, no change. I thought I seen someone people have moved their RCDLR closer to their roofs as that apparently increases reception range

i watched the whole thing, but the problem is in Eric’s case the code was staying no matter what, if I clear mine it goes away for a few days then randomly comes back when I start my truck. If mine was constantly on I could easily do the same procedure for finding the break, but I checked my whole harness as best as I could and didn’t see any chafes, and I opened the harness in a few spots and tugged the wire hoping it was broken and would come out, but it was nice and tight in there

Anyone at all?

My truck will throw the P129D every couple of days when I start my truck, code never comes up driving. I’ve installed a new fuel pump control module, and a new battery, and the issue still persists. Anyone else had this issue before? It’s got me confused

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but did you ever find a solution to your problem? I have the exact same issue on my 2015 LT Silverado. I could lock/ unlock it from across a Walmart parking lot, but the remote start is a different story. I’ve got 3 fobs, 2 GM, 1 aftermarket, all with brand new ultimate lithium batteries, and the range flat out sucks. I’m thinking mine could be a loose wire at the RCDLR module that receives the signals then sends request to BCM.

Anyone else here have issues with the range of their remote start? Even 100 feet from the house it seems like it only wants to pick up the signal half the time, tried both my other sets of fobs too. all 3 of my fobs have brand new energizer ultimate lithium batteries as well. I’ve read here about a RCDLR, remote control door lock receiver. Does that pick up the signal from remote start? I’ve heard some people move this reciever to another location along the back window? If anyone has any information I’d greatly appreciate it

the reason I’m doing it is I’m replacing the compressor, the expansion valve, and I need to pull the condenser to replace the desiccant. My guess is the dealer would charge me around 4 hours labour, at $100 Canadian an hour. I can easily do it all myself, as I installed the new condenser last year. Installing the compressor looks fairly easy after looking at how to do it. I purchased a GM genuine compressor, so I’d assume it would have the correct oil. I’ll tell the dealer tech I installed the GM compressor and they should know what’s in it, or they can check. A system evac and recharge is $125 Canadian at the dealer.

i wasn’t aware I needed to clean the sealing washers with acetone, good thing I have some here! I seen online everyone said the nylog was like nickel anti-seize, a little bit goes a long ways! Thanks for the info!

I’m not going to be doing any oiling, I’m just going to install the parts, then take it to the dealer for the vac and recharge. I’ll explain my situation to them and they can handle the rest hopefully

Yeah, I figure if it can help, why not. I really don’t want to do anymore AC work on this truck, so I’m hoping this should help. I’ve been reading lots of good things about the blue nylog so I’m more confident in it

I’ve been told the nylog just helps the protect sealing washer and o-rings from heat and the elements, and it can go on flared fittings to help seal, seen lots of good reviews on it

hey there. I was told the sealant isn’t needed but helps, so I’ll probably add it. Dealership said that the pressure reading of output on compressor was alright but it’s leaking from the back. They said everything else was fine. So I’ll be replacing compressor, expansion valve, all seals, and removing condenser to replace the desiccant bag

should I use Nylog Blue on the sealing washers or just on the standard green O-rings?

Thanks for the info! I just ordered some Nylog, should I use the Nylog on the sealing washers, or just on any O-rings?

Hey guys! I’m replacing the compressor in my 2015 Silverado LT with the 5.3. After replacing both my condenser and upgrading to the steel discharge line, as well as adding the bracket, my compressor started leaking from the back a few days ago. So I got the replacement GM genuine compressor, expansion valve, and a desiccant bag. I’m wondering what the torque specs are for the nut that holds the suction and discharges lines to the compressor, as well for the nut that holds the lines to the condenser and expansion valve. I’m assuming since they all have the same stud, they should all be the same torque spec. Also, while I’m here, can the desiccant bag be replaced with the condenser still in, or do I need to remove the condenser to replace the bag? Thanks all!