Kyle Ross

live data misfires not using mode 6. this resulted in a maf sensor fixing the issue. thanks for the reply

check your control arm bushing and your leaf spring bolts and bushing

let me know if your able too see the wiring diagrams i uploaded

1.svg2.svg3.svgHope this helps. if you have no com with the bcm check power and ground at the bcm. make sure you use a good test light and not a multimeter to check for power and ground. I recommend checking power and ground using a head light bulb. The head light bulb should light up nice and bright but if it doesn't you may have a high resistance wire. 9/10 times if you have one module down and have power and ground present at the module, the module is bad.

ok you guys are way over thinking this. even if its not getting fuel or not enough fuel. load test the wires going to the pump is gonna tell you both. if you don't have a solid power and ground at the pump you may only have 5 psi. if you don't have power or ground you might have a relay problem or wiring problem. either way you have to verify the circuit. if you have a high amp head light bulb and it lights up bright i can tell you that pump is junk. but if its dim you have a wiring issue (high resistance wire) fuel pump takes a lot of amps to run them. you cant use an led test light or a multimeter. But i will state this if you do have a good power and ground at the pump it wouldn't hurt taking a fuel sample to make sure there isn't water in the tank. but that fact that you can spray break clean in the throttle body and you can keep it running is telling me the cylinders are not flooded out. i can supply wire diagrams if need be.

Don't bother checking fuel pressure its clearly is not getting fuel. check the fuel pump relay. And if all is good load test the power and ground with a head light bulb at the tank to make sure you have power and ground. And yes use a headlight bulb. headlight bulb draws more amps then a tradition test light

Tire vibration only at 45-55 would make me believe a bad belt in the tire is occurring. Tire balance would cause a vibration/shake at any highway speeds. I would make sure none of your tires seem out of round or cupping and check for bent wheel. Does the rumbling noise change when steering left to right at steady speed when this rumbling is occurring? I would remove your drive shaft and inspect the u joints for play or stiffness. any stiffness or binding will cause a vibration. But of course check your steering components and wheel bearing for play. loose ball joints will not cause a vibration.

This should be under warranty. I would imagine it the pins a bushings causing noises in the door hinge. I wouldn't try spraying any lube on the door just in case the noise goes away the dealer may say they cant duplicate the concern.

The way i see it is they're pulling your leg. GM has had cylinder deactivation for years now and haven't ran into that problem. There are many tsbs and have ran into many low mile gm truck having motor mount issues. Along, with torque converter problems that causing vibrations

2007 Chevy Truck Silverado Classic 1500 4WD V8-5.3L -source ALLDATA

i would attach it to that line with the heat wrap on it. To the right of the radiator house that the clip is attached too.

I would check with the dealer, on some vehicles you can have customers preferences change in their oem scanner. just a thought

Vehicle came in and i replaced the motor mounts due to them leaking fluid (fluid filled mounts). test drove the vehicle and felt a slight surge on the interstate under light throttle. check with scanner and almost all the cylinders (on both banks) had misfire counts. its just odd because i can get it to misfire under load or power braking it. (maybe 1 or 2 random counts when doing that but not as bad as under acceleration) Did find some issue with the torque converters. vehicle has about 60k on the motor thinking i should start with some spark plugs. Anyone ran into this issue?