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voided3

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    '21 Silverado LT 5.3 CCSB 4x4

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  1. Thankfully we haven't had oil/coolant loss issues since our lifter replacement, but our dealer did break a wiring harness clip and didn't clip a heater hose back into place on ours (our bad lifters were on the passenger side, yours sounds like it was the driver's side). Out of curiosity, what did you trade it in for? I don't plan on owning ours out of warranty so I've already been looking, too, and am leaning towards an F150 or F250 since we have a Ford dealer practically walking distance from our house (at least if it has issues, too, I can push it there!).
  2. Yeah, the fuel pump priming, brake booster cycling, and random OnStar/infotainment weirdness on startup are all normal. I also have noticed that in Consumer Reports that the full size trucks, especially GM, are on blast and end up at the bottom lately, though to be fair that's one publication's poll findings. I honestly think there is just too much expected of 1/2 ton trucks both from the super wide variety of consumers who buy them and from regulatory bodies, as well as budgetary restrictions for manufacturing cost. As a result, they become jacks of all trades but masters of none and no one is entirely happy with the end result, despite massive sales numbers. They can't tow/haul as well as a 3/4 ton despite inflated towing numbers in some cases over 13,000 pounds, but they don't ride/handle/stop/maneuver as well as an average family SUV they may be replacing. They are more fuel efficient than they used to be, but at the major expense of reliability and durability that people used to associate with trucks, and in a big picture way, still are not very fuel efficient (perhaps not including the 3.0 Duramax, but long term reliability is unknown and modern diesel emissions systems are complex and typically are the Achilles heel). We bought our truck to tow a modestly sized travel trailer. I've debated going overkill and getting a 3/4 ton truck just so I can have something more reliable, but then I'm stuck daily driving a school bus that rides like a shopping cart and doesn't fit in our garage. I've debated getting a full size SUV, but they have lower payload ratings and have the same questionably reliable powertrains as their 1/2 ton truck counterparts. I'd love to try an F150 Lighting EV, but it would never work (currently) for towing a travel trailer more than 150 miles round trip. So we're stuck with a gas 1/2 ton truck, and so are a lot of other people.
  3. Depending on how much fuel is in the tank, you can hear it sloshing around from time to time. The tank is mounted on the driver's side of the frame so it can be noticeable, given the proximity.
  4. We didn't have any paint issues on our '21 Silverado, but I lot of those items sound similar to my experience with ours. We did have an incorrectly installed trim piece around the passenger side tow hook, though, and the bed was misaligned (both were fixed). Ours had the dreaded DFM lifter failure at 585 miles prior to the updated GM TSB guidance, so it took four dealer visits, four rental cars, two engine tear-downs, and 51 days to get it fixed, so at least you don't have that! We also had to replace the serpentine belt and idler pulley at 6300 miles because it started wearing and squeaking prematurely, most likely due to being removed a few times for the lifter repair(s) and it's a stretch-fit belt (the L84 5.3 doesn't have a belt tensioner... great design). We have a non-Z71 4x4 Silverado with regular shocks and on rough surfaces the rear can get a little squirrely. It seems to have gotten a little better over 11,000 miles, or I've just gotten used to it, or the added weight of my Bakflip tonneau cover, rubber bed mat, and tool kit in the bed helps smooth it out. The brake master cylinders on these trucks are electric-assist ZF units and definitely feel a little different. If I have to do a harder panic stop, sometimes ours makes a funny groaning sound, and the pedal travel to get a firmer brake engagement is a bit far. Apparently the parking brake also uses the service brake calipers instead of a separate drum unit inside the brake disc, so sometimes after disengaging that you'll get an intermittent rubbing sound for the first 80 feet of rolling or so. As far as I can tell from my searches, this is normal, too. The clunk is probably the rear leaf springs or the jack under the back seat. Ours did it a few times earlier on, but I haven't heard it recently. If you search about that rear leaf spring noise, there is a rubber insert you can buy to stick between the leaf packs that is supposed to help. I didn't touch the leafs on ours, but I did remove the jack and noticed it was contacting the floor on one corner so I stuck a few round furniture felts on the floor where the jack contacts it. I think that may have been our clunk as I haven't noticed it since. The ticking is normal, as well, as our trucks use an extremely high pressure GDI (gasoline direct injection) setup that's common on a lot of vehicles now for better fuel efficiency. My understanding is the ticking is just the injectors firing. Our other GDI vehicles do this, too. Honestly, these trucks seem to make a lot of random ticks/clunks/squeaks/rattles and after almost a year of ownership, I've just learned to live with it. It's not great to have a bunch of random NVH on a new vehicle, but I can't keep stressing over every single sound this thing makes. I've been paranoid since my experience with the lifter failure, but I have made peace with the fact that this vehicle is essentially designed to last no longer than the 5 year/60,000 mile powertrain warranty and I plan to trade it in right before that runs out.
  5. The rough idle seems to, unfortunately, be an intrinsic characteristic on the 5.3 and 6.2 engines. Our '21 Silverado with the 5.3 with a little over 11,000 miles on it also dances around a bit at 500 RPM, mostly on a cold start after warming up for 20 seconds or so and not so much when up to temperature. I have done cold starts with the hood open so I could watch the engine move and there does seem to be a good amount of engine shaking happening side to side, but I'm guessing they are heavily dampened rubber mounts for noise isolation which allow that much play. Some have reported that running higher octane gas can smooth idle, but I always run our 5.3 on at least 89 octane (extra knock protection for towing) and it still does it. Some also reported that having auto start/stop engaged seems to reduce this (when the engine is actually idling with it engaged, obviously not when it's off at a stop light haha), but I always turn it off reflexively every time I drive the truck. I would honestly do your best to ignore it and just keep up with maintenance. After nearly a year of ownership, I've learned to live with several annoyances that seem to be characteristics of these trucks, the biggest being DFM (which I disable by driving in L7 on the 8-speed), but the various squeaks/rattles/clunks/vibrations I routinely experience all seem to be normal for now. Let's just say if I didn't need a truck, I wouldn't be putting up with it.
  6. My parents tend to buy new and keep cars 10-15 years. The longest term vehicle they've ever owned is their '03 Chevy Avalanche as it just keeps going, but they recently had some age-related repairs that were a little bit expensive to resolve (new fuel tank mounting straps as the old ones rusted out, 7-pin trailer wiring stopped working, water pump, yet another set of brakes, etc.). They did confide in me and say they regret keeping some vehicles as long as they did due to repair costs eventually going up while value goes down, however. My take on it is if your vehicle doesn't give you any trouble during the warranty period, keep it for a year or two after it has been paid off, then evaluate your options from there, weighing the vehicle's value and upcoming maintenance costs. If your vehicle has had multiple issues during the warranty period, I would get rid of it right before the warranty runs out. If you negotiated in an extended warranty, that buys you a little more time, but you still need to weigh non-warranty wear items like tires and brakes as well as the vehicle's current value. Our '21 Silverado has had a bunch of issues from day 1 including the dreaded lifter failure and it's definitely getting traded in prior to 5 years/60,000 miles, but at least I didn't have to pay to fix them due to warranty coverage. I feel a lot of newer vehicles are engineered to last the duration of the warranty and no longer so I don't feel that a 10-15 year span of ownership is financially practical anymore, sadly. If the lifters on our truck need replacement again, but out of warranty, it'll most likely be a $5,000+ job. No thanks.
  7. We have the GM floor liners in our bench seat crew cab LT and it covers the "dead pedal". I was originally going to get the Weathertechs or Husky liners, but the GM ones cover the transmission hump in the front and split in half down the middle for easier removal for cleaning (they fit together like a puzzle).
  8. We also have a '21 Silverado DFM 5.3 8-speed truck that had lifter replacement. It vibrated the same before and after the replacement, especially cruising at specifically 31 MPH prior to shifting up a gear. I can't stand DFM so I drive the truck in L7 to disable it and it's much smoother at all speeds.
  9. Our '21 Silverado with the DFM 5.3 and 8-speed was built in November 2020 and we started getting check engine lights due to lifter failure at 585 miles. Ours was finally repaired on the fourth dealer visit for the issue (51 days at the dealer in total) back in April 2021 when they replaced the lifters on cylinders #6 and #8. This was prior to the updated TSB guidance you are referencing, so they only did the two cylinders. I'll let someone else weigh in on the supplier as I don't have info on that. The truck is now at roughly 11,000 miles and the issue has not come back yet (operative word "yet"...), but I also drive it in L7 instead of D on the gear selector as that disables DFM. Even in 7th gear, I still get about 20-21 MPG on the highway with the engine turning about 1900 RPM at 65 MPH, so I'd say DFM will give you an extra 1 MPG, roughly. I also run the truck on 89 octane or higher and run the tires at 38 PSI (instead of 35), FYI, as half the time we are driving it we're towing a small travel trailer. The driving experience is so much better in L7 at all speeds in my opinion, but it's annoying having to toggle up to it every time, plus turning off auto start/stop every time. With that said, I still can't justify the $200 Range DFM disabler as I get the same effect doing the above, but the only compromise is I lose 8th gear. If you live somewhere the highway speed limit is 70/75 MPH, it might be more worth it get get 8th gear back, but around here they are all 55/65 MPH. My advice would be to drive it normally in D for now and keep an eye on your dash for the flashing check engine light, as nerve wracking as that is. It's a well documented issue now if it happens to you, so they shouldn't initially shrug it off like they did to us. The average failure mode on the lifters seems to either be early on (like us), or they fail from normal wear and tear between 60k-80k miles, right when the powertrain warranty runs out. Since the lifter replacement is a $5,000+ job out of warranty, I plan on getting rid of the truck prior to 5 years/60,000 miles and honestly would recommend the same, unless you have a good relationship with a knowledgable independent mechanic who can install a DFM-delete kit for you with a new cam, lifters, ECU tune, etc. once you are out of warranty. Our state does annual vehicle inspections via OBDII scans, though, so my guess is any aftermarket ECU modifications will cause it to fail inspection on the emissions portion, so I'm ruling out this option in our case, unfortunately.
  10. It sounds like normal AFM/DFM operation to me. I run our DFM-equipped 5.3 in L7 (8-speed transmission) to disable DFM and it's a much smoother, better driving experience. I still get 21 MPG on the highway in 7th gear (3.23 read end) so you do lose about 1-2 MPG, but not bad.
  11. Albeit it wouldn't be exactly the same as the factory towing mirrors, you can get custom fit mirror extensions that attach to the standard Silverado/Sierra mirrors. Here's one variety that only costs $60 and looks like a solid fit: https://www.etrailer.com/Towing-Mirrors/Chevrolet/Silverado+1500/2021/KS80930.html?VehicleID=202198911
  12. Thank you for pointing this out! Our '21 Silverado LT did not come with that panel so I just ordered one. I hope it comes with the mounting hardware, but it looks like they used three generic plastic "Christmas tree" push fasteners that I can probably get at the hardware store. We get some random squeak noises from the passenger side dash so I hope this helps.
  13. Perfect, thank you! I just clipped it back into place.
  14. Thank you! That would be great as I want to make sure it's in the correct spot. I mistakenly said earlier it was an A/C line but it's actually a heater hose so I don't want to risk damaging it and having coolant all over the place.
  15. Does the clip attach to the hose above or the hose below the T connector? I'm guessing above based on the alignment but wanted ask. If it's not too much of a bother, a picture would be great, but no pressure.
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