Everything posted by voided3
Our '21 Silverado with the L84 5.3 had the flashing CEL come on four times due to failing lifters on cylinder #6 and #8, though the misfire codes were only coming from cylinder #8. After replacing the lifters, the issue hasn't come back.
I can't speak to how much dust is normal, but we had belt dust buildup on our engine and a belt chirp when cold for the first few minutes. They replaced the serpentine belt, AC belt, and idler pulley at 6300 miles. The truck is now at about 13,500 miles and it hasn't come back yet, and it's hard to tell if the dust currently on the engine is from the original belt or the new one since they unfortunately didn't detail my engine bay for me (haha). I'd just go ahead and have them replace the belt and idler pulley under warranty if they are offering to do it.
Our dealer's service manager facilitated getting a component coverage letter (not the same as an extended powertrain warranty) for just the engine in our truck after getting the lifters replaced on our '21 Silverado. It came in the mail a month after the final repair from the Chevrolet Division of the GM Customer Assistance Center. It effectively gives us 6 years/100,000 mile coverage on the engine, tied to the VIN number of our truck, from the date specified post-repair, but doesn't include any other drivetrain items like the transmission or transfer case; those are still under the original 5 year/60,000 mile powertrain warranty.
The oil change interval won't guarantee much on a relatively new vehicle, but that's good that all 16 were replaced. My rule of thumb is never let the oil life monitor go below 50%, which usually works out to about 3500-4000 miles. In the manual, the "severe service" oil change interval is roughly 4000 miles, anyway, and most manufacturers include short trips and winter driving as "severe service" so basically everyone qualifies.
Honestly, as an owner of a '21 Silverado with the 5.3, I would not buy that truck. There is a reason it's already on the used lot and it's not just because of inflated trade-in values. Even if it came with full lifetime, no questions asked warranty coverage, knowing what I know now about the L84 5.3 V8 and the quality issues GM is currently having, I would never have bought it. Our lifters failed at 585 miles, among other issues. Between repairs and regular maintenance, I've had nine service appointments over 16 months of ownership, four rental cars, and it spent 51 days at the dealer. I sincerely hope this isn't typical for everyone who owns these trucks, but this is not an isolated instance for this particular model year. We plan on trading in ours within the next several months, as well.
The payload rating will be more of the concern with a travel trailer as they tend to lean closer to 15% tongue weight rather than the usual 10%. We tow a smaller 4000 lbs. GVWR camper and with the weight of propane, the power tongue jack, the deep cycle battery, and our hitching equipment on the front of the trailer, our tongue weight is right around 600 lbs. If your trailer loaded is around 6800 lbs., that means you could potentially have up to 1020 lbs. of tongue weight, meaning you would be left with 380 lbs. of payload in the truck for passengers and cargo, if you have 1400 lbs. of payload. If your trailer has a more conservative 12% tongue weight, though (as an example), you would be at 816 lbs. of tongue weight and you get back almost 200 lbs. of payload in the truck. If possible, I would hitch it up loaded and go to a weigh station to see what your axle weights are. That could also influence how you adjust your weight distribution hitch and where you place cargo both in the truck and trailer. If you usually travel with water on board, don't forget to fill that up, too, as water is 8 lbs. per gallon and adds up quick.
Our '21 Silverado with L84 5.3 got the first flashing check engine light at 585 miles. The dealer replaced the lifters only on cylinders #6 and #8 after several visits (the light came back four times in total) around 1800 miles. The truck is now at about 12,500 miles and the issue hasn't come back yet, but 1) I change the oil every 3,000 miles as a preventative measure, and 2) I exclusively drive the truck in L7 on the 8-speed to disable DFM. Despite these measures, I wouldn't be surprised if it happened again given only four out of 16 lifters were replaced. I've mentioned this in other DFM lifter threads, too, but if they remove your serpentine belt for any reason as part of the repair, have them replace it. Ours started failing at 6300 miles because they took it off twice and stretch fit belts are one-time use. They replaced the serpentine belt, AC belt, and idler pulley on ours under warranty. Also make sure they clip your heater hoses back into place. They didn't on ours and I had to clip one back in its retainer so it wouldn't rub on the frame and squeak going over bumps. Even without the manufacturing defect that affected our batch of engines, the lifters will most likely fail between 60,000 and 80,000 miles under normal use, anyway, due to the poor design. If you are not leasing the truck, I would plan on trading it before the 5 year/60,000 mile powertrain warranty is up or get an extended warranty if you hope to keep it longer. We negotiated an extended component coverage (6 years/100,000 miles) letter for the engine on ours that's tied to the VIN number due to the terrible, dragged out repair experience we had with ours over the course of a few months. It's at minimum a $5,000 job out of warranty to get the lifters replaced at the dealer, and if it takes out the whole engine due to metal debris recirculating, it can be as much as $11,000-12,000 for a new engine. With all of that said, we plan on trading in the truck later this year. We use it to tow a modestly sized 4,000 lbs. GVWR camper and I can't deal with a practically brand new truck randomly failing in the middle of nowhere hours from home. No amount of warranty coverage will make you any less screwed in that scenario.
Yeah, it hasn't been a good experience at all. It was the right truck for us on paper, but man did the execution fall short. I drove my parents' '03 Chevy Avalanche a few months ago for the last time, prior to them selling it recently, to compare. Even at almost 20 years old and 170k+ miles with all original drivetrain components, that thing still shifts buttery smooth, rides great (it's a coil sprung Suburban chassis so not apples to apples), runs strong, really comfortable seats, and great forward visibility. It's just night and day to our truck in every aspect and it's super depressing. I'd gladly take 70 less horsepower and four less gears if our truck could drive like that. Side note, our bed it was so crooked they had to remove the plastic locator pin to get it to line up so the dealer's body shop had to do it, otherwise I would have done the same.
Yeah, it's hard to get accurate numbers without hacking into GM's dealer network probably (haha). I figured it would be worth a shot, though, as ours failed so early at 585 miles and I've been curious.
To summarize, the engine has been apart twice for lifter failure (before they finally figured it out), the idler pulley and serpentine belt prematurely failed at 6300 miles, the bed was incorrectly installed crooked at the factory, and the front seats had to be removed to fix incorrectly installed/non-functioning HVAC ducting to the rear. I also have to hold it in neutral for three seconds between reverse and drive or it slams into 2nd gear on the first 1-2 shift of the day. After each repair, the dealer also messed up something and I had to fix it myself: They didn't clip a heater hose back into place so it would rub on the frame going over bumps and squeak, the body shop bent the plastic deflector in front of the passenger side rear wheel so I had them send me the part to install myself, and they didn't reconnect the wiring harness for the rear seat USB ports after removing the front seats so I had to pop the bezel off and reconnect it. They also put over 500 miles on the truck test driving it across the four service appointments for the lifters and burned half a tank of gas without refueling it on the last appointment and never reimbursed me after providing a receipt. They also ran over my floor mats at some point; the front passenger side mat had a distinct Michelin Primacy tread print in it I had to scrub off with a drill brush.... In conclusion, there are some days I hope this piece of $#!^ catches fire on the side of the road and puts itself out of my misery. I might call the fire department to come put it out after a half hour or so, just to be safe.
Lifter failure on the T1-platform trucks and SUVs with the DFM-equipped L84 5.3 and L87 6.2 V8s has been a common topic, but I'd like to take a poll and gather some real data from a sample group of owners. No need to comment with mileage or anything, just a Yes or No answer will suffice.
Correct, basic powertrain is 5 years/60,000 miles, though I've had other issues that were non-mechanical, as well. Given current trade values, we intend to trade in the truck late this year or early next year and I would recommend the same to you. We'll probably end up doing what we should have done in the first place and get a gas 3/4 ton like an F250 with the 6.2 V8, even though our current travel trailer is only 4,000 lbs. GVWR. My dad is getting a '22 Sierra 2500 6.6 gas soon so I'll be curious how his truck treats him in comparison.
Yep, they replaced the lifters only on cylinders #6 and #8 on ours around 1700 miles. This was before the updated TSB guidance, otherwise we would have had the whole bank or all of them replaced. The truck now is at about 12,500 miles and still runs fine, but I also change the oil every 3,000 miles and drive exclusively in L7 on the 8-speed to disable both DFM and auto start/stop. We plan on trading in the truck before the 3 year/36,000 mile bumper-to-bumper warranty is up, even though they gave us an extended component coverage letter on the engine to 100,000 miles; that's how little I trust this thing.
It will be on your driver's door jamb sticker, the one below the trailering information sticker (not the yellow load info sticker, the other GM-specific one). Our '21 Silverado has a 11/2020 build date and our lifters went out early, too.
^^^ This; If the sticker calls for 41 PSI, your factory fitted tires probably are LT-rated load range C as opposed to P-rated. Anecdotally, I run our stock P265/65/R18 Michelin Primacy all-seasons at 38 PSI (less sidewall deflection under load when towing) and the door jamb sticker calls for 35 PSI. I rotate them at every oil change and they are wearing evenly.
Try driving in L7 at a steady speed in the 30 - 45 MPH range and then switch to either L8 or D while you have your fuel economy readout open on the dash. If it changes dramatically and you get more vibration, then DFM is active. If it stays the same, then the Pulsar is doing its job.
Good call. I really wish we had bought the 2500 Custom 6.6 gas instead of our 1500 LT 5.3 for the same price. I can't stand DFM or auto start/stop so I have to drive in L7 all of the time to disable both.
The lifters themselves are the failure prone component due to design, but in recent history they also had a bad batch with a manufacturing defect (our truck included). It's believed that disabling DFM/AFM reduces the likelihood of failure, and logically you would think that it would as you are not cycling the lock pins on the lifters that generally are responsible for the failure, but it doesn't guarantee that you won't have a lifter-related issue. Even if the components are stationary, they are still there and they are less robust that a traditional non-DFM/AFM lifter. Disabling the system in my opinion, however, improves the drivability of the vehicle significantly, regardless of reliability implications. I exclusively drive our '21 5.3 8-speed truck in L7 for this reason (but also because we had lifter failure at 585 miles and I'm still sour about it). If you toggle from L7 to D to re-enable DFM at a steady cruise, it feels like getting hit by a headwind and at certain speeds (especially 31 MPH specifically on ours, right before the transmission up shifts) the exhaust almost sounds like a helicopter with it enabled. This is all to say even if it was the most reliable system in the world (which it isn't), it's extremely unpleasant to live with. It's honestly a shame because the valvetrain in the modern 5.3 V8s took what used to be a 250,000+ mile motor in older LS variants and turned it into a 60,000-80,000 mile motor at best. I saw a post here the other day of someone with a 2019 5.3 truck with 78,000 miles that had a lifter go and it took out the whole engine to the tune of $12,000. It's not sustainable to own trucks with these engines out of warranty. I will be genuinely shocked if any significant number of the V8-equipped T1 trucks make it to 100,000 miles with all of the original factory-installed engine components in-tact. Ours didn't even make it to the first oil change.
Yep, design flaw and under-spec'd components. The sad thing is it's probably worth paying for the repair and keeping the truck at least two or three more years given what you would pay for an equivalent new truck to replace it in today's market. The new engine should last roughly that long before it happens again at the same mileage, giving you enough time to replace the truck in advance. $12,000 ideally should be a down payment on a better truck, but here we are. I'll be genuinely amazed if any of these V8-powered T1-platform trucks make it to six or eight years old with their original engines and transmissions in-tact. We plan on trading in our '21 Silverado within the next year or two (already had lifter failure at 585 miles). Owning these out of warranty only makes sense if you have the skills and tools to do an engine swap yourself. Hopefully in the future, there will be DFM-deleted L84 and L87 crate engines for these with standalone ECUs.
Exactly. We have a '21 Silverado LT with the 5.3 and had our lifters fail at 585 miles, among other issues. I kick myself every day for not getting a Custom 2500 with the gas 6.6 for basically the same price as I'm sure it would have been a much better ownership experience. I've had nine service appointments in 14 months, and it spent nearly two of those months at the dealer service department, leaving me to drive four different rental cars. We're going to replace the truck within the next year or two, most likely with a Ford F250 with the 6.2 or 7.3 gas V8. Reliability has become priority #1 over all else because of this truck-shaped object with a Silverado badge on it. I still can't believe how little quality you get for so much money in today's market and it has made me hate that we need a truck. If your sedan or crossover has to be in the shop for a week or two, you'll probably be able to get a loaner or rental that will serve the purpose and life goes on. If your truck goes down, the chances of getting a loaner/rental with a brake controller and adequate towing/payload capacity are slim to zero. You basically need to own two trucks in order to always have one that works. Good call. Try experimenting with tire pressures to soften up the ride; you shouldn't have to run the rear tires at the full 80 PSI when not towing/hauling.
That sounds similar to an intermittent squeak our '21 Silverado gets (but hasn't done lately). It's usually attributed to driving over bumps at lower speeds. It's most likely a wiring harness shifting around a bit and I've read of others that had the dealer reroute or zip tie a transmission wiring harness that's on top of the bell housing to resolve it. On ours, I noticed it diminished after I re-clipped a heater hose the dealer did not re-secure after we had our lifters replaced, but it's possible that they are unrelated. If there are any exposed T15 torx or 7mm bolts that secure any trim in the area, I'd check to see how tight they are to rule out one possibility, but sometimes a loose fastener may be hiding deeper behind another trim panel. I also lubed up all of the weather stripping on ours with silicone spray and put a tiny amount in the cracks where more flexible trim panels meet as another troubleshooting measure, but once again, I'm not certain it really made any difference in our case.
Honestly, if you've had good luck with your truck from a reliability perspective, I would keep it until it's either paid off or the powertrain warranty is about to expire and then re-evaluate your situation at that time. My in-laws have an '18 Silverado that falls in the reliable category to date, so they're probably going to keep it 8-10 years like their last Silverado. If your truck had as many issues as our '21 Silverado that basically has a reserved service bay at our dealer after six unplanned repairs in the first year of ownership, however, then I would say sell ASAP if the current trade value is inflated to the point of having a decent amount of positive equity, or at least sell before the warranty is up. We plan on getting rid of ours within the next year or two at the latest.
Interesting. Given the similarities, I had wondered about the feasibility of retrofitting the L8T belt setup.
Probably a lot, which I'm sure was the driving motivator. I can't help but notice that the gas L8T 6.6 V8 in the HD trucks have a belt tensioner, though. That always implies to me that it's a more robust setup if that's what they use in their HD fleet trucks, though those trucks also have hydraulic power steering pumps and sometimes dual alternators so the needs are different.
I'm surprised that's not a trim package at this point: The Satificer I'm also surprised that your dealer put anything on the belt as you're not supposed to put anything on a EDPM rubber belt like the "belt dressings" they would sometimes use on older style V-belts. Perhaps in four or five years they'll admit there's a design issue and do a recall.
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