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    2019 Yukon SLT

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BlaineBug's Achievements


Enthusiast (6/11)



  1. Paint from 20 years ago was much more durable than today. Because environment or something.
  2. I wouldn't say I have any noticeable fading yet with my 2019's black paint but on the hood and the front of the roof (where it would seem it would have gotten most of the road and wind rash) if you don't polish it you can see what appear to be lateral scratches. I'm not sure if they are above or beneath the clear coat. But it is only in these areas. The side body panels seem not to be affected. I believe the roof is steel but the hood is definitely aluminum and I am curious if this has anything to do with it. Although when clean, polished, and buffed, it really disappears, it's not crusty or foggy like in some of these worst case scenario pictures attached in this thread. My 2019 racked up 34,000 miles in one year of Rental use with Hertz (titled in Kansas) between when it was manufactured in August 2018 and when I purchased it in December of 2019. I assumed this was in part due to frequent automatic car washes throughout the first year and a lot of dusty, gravely highway cruising as it was a rental.
  3. When fuel was inexpensive in MAGA country E85 was higher than 87 octane.
  4. That is true. My wife says it's absurd that E85 follows the price of E10 or E15 fuel considering that only 15% of E85 it is regular fuel "traded by speculation."
  5. I assume you mean "yes" his truck is NOT flex-fuel compatible unless clearly identified, correct? He still has the window sticker and we looked through it and couldn't find any mention of E-85.
  6. Asking for a friend who has a 2016 Silverado with the 4.3. He has a traditional black twist-on fuel cap and no markings or sticker on the fuel door for E85. I assume at that period not everything was flex-fuel compatible?
  7. Add-a-fuse taps plug into an existing circuit's fuse port, but then the add-a-fuse tap has a spot for 2 fuses, so you can install the original sized fuse for the original circuit and then add an appropriate fuse for the LED strip he is adding, which should be very minimal. At most he'd need a 5 amp fuse I'd imagine, or he can get creative and locate a 2 or 3 amp fuse if he can find it easily enough.
  8. Just the other day I noticed my A/C condensate drain was dripping on the floor of my garage. I had the HVAC turned on, but not in AUTO mode and I had also disabled the A/C by pressing the A/C button which turns off the A/C indicator light. So apparently the only way to turn off the A/C entirely is to turn off the HVAC entirely to where you have zero display and no cabin fan. Mind you only the front A/C was draining. The rear A/C unit was dry.
  9. I think you were possibly seeing an Apple Carplay screen. Although my Android Auto doesn't show a split screen.
  10. Check the ground wire mounted to the frame on the passenger front behind the felt wheel well liner.
  11. I took some more measurements today, this time from the floor of my garage to the bottom of the frame. 3 tires at 35 PSI and 1 at 36 PSI according to dash display. Front Left = 11-5/8" Front Right = 11-7/8" Rear Left = 12-1/4" Rear Right = 12-1/8" So when using the frame as reference there is less than an inch of difference from front to rear. That's pretty level. I don't have much weight but I have a tool box, some shackles, straps, and 3 inserts for the hitch receiver, so maybe 75 pounds in weight in the back at all times. I'd have to say with such little difference being reported, I don't think I have any desire for a "leveling kit" at this time after all. Maybe it's the trucks with the rear leafs that have a more significant difference from front to rear?
  12. Wow. How many miles on the vehicle? I assume always parked outside in the hot baking sun of the south.
  13. I like women, not a fruit, you're being unreasonable. Your Jeep Wrangler TJ has/had the same front axle as my Jeep Cherokee, a Dana 30. Solid front axle. I had Rusty's adjustable upper and lower control arms on mine. Rough Country control arm drop brackets. Rusty's steering (sucked!) and GoFerIt above-the-knuckle steering inserts. Rusty's adjustable tracbar. Rear axle was a Chrysler 8.25. Had a Tom Woods rear driveshaft made for it too and a yoke conversion kit for the NP231 transfer case. I started off with a 3" lift with 30x9.50s, then went to 4.5" with 32x11.50s, and finally settled around 8" with 33x1250s. Looking back I should have stayed 3", it was the most friendly for daily driving!
  14. Your Wrangler TJ has a solid front axle and aftermarket adjustable control arms to adjust their length to achieve proper caster angle and alignment in wheel well. Apples/oranges.
  15. That is true although I thought the upper bushings were the ones that had the alignment for caster/camber and then the toe would be adjusted via tie rod ends. I don't believe they ever loosen/tighten the bottom control arm bushings at all. I have never seen an adjustable lower control arm bushing for any make or manufacturer.
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