I hear what you are saying. It is annoying. Anything at the dealer takes way too long! We could do it in our back yards for a fraction of time, but shouldn't have to, because that is what the warranties are for!
I finally received a call back from GM Customer Service. Apparently they spoke with the dealer, and the dealer told them that the fuse block wasn't receiving power, which caused all of my problems. I told the GM employee that the GM dealership, although they performed the TSB, informed me that they didn't find anything out of the ordinary in regards to the connections between the battery and the fuse block, therefore I am not confident that I will not experience this issue in the future. Also, how do they know what was going wrong, because in their report, they were not able to reproduce my problem! Also, nobody has had any interest in viewing my video thus far, which definitely confirms the issue I was experiencing. My main concern here is being out of the 36,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty in less than 1,000 miles. I'm asking them for some sort of guarantee that if this problem arises in the future that it be covered since I reported it prior to the expiration of the warranty. I also mentioned that the TSB mentions zilch about the transmission not wanting to shift into any gear. I'm calm and treated the customer service representative from GM very friendly, but overall, they know very little about what I am talking about. I also pulled the battery from the vehicle and took it to my local Advance Auto Parts to test it, who verified once again that it is in good condition with, I believe, 732 cranking amps. Considering I have had the battery tested at three separate parts stores, I would have to assume that it is not at fault here. By the way, whoever placed the single battery location at the passenger firewall should be questioned. What a pain in the arse location, mashed in there between the coolant reservoir, fender, and A/C lines, and the firewall. I can't imagine how difficult it would be to replace in some parking lot with frozen fingers. Talk about a god awful nightmare if it has to be done again in the future, without the comforts of my very own private garage! I have to comment that this is the absolute most inconvenient battery location that I have ever had to work with in my experience! I also went through all of the 5 battery connections including removing the entire fuse block on the driver's side of the vehicle and not finding anything wrong with any of the pins. Nothing is bent or broken or anything and everything looks immaculate to be honest, as one could consider normal on a 2019 model year vehicle. Once again, I highly recommend to each and every one of you with a similar problem to CALL GM Customer Support. Some of you have gone "quiet" which is typical of an internet forum, but that's all I've got so I hope everyone here with a troublesome GM vehicle never gives up!
If one of the recalls had to do with a front camera, that's the only camera that there is behind the rear view mirror. This camera is for the lane keep assist, and intellilamp high beam control I believe. The round, circular sensor next to the camera on the windshield is for the rain sensing windshield wipers, if you have those as well.
OnStar most likely will only be able to see what your dealer can see with their diagnostic equipment, or even less. I'm not really sure. Maybe they can only see what codes you have when your check engine light is on (like a code reader) and that's it. Who knows because I don't. Anyway, in regards to finding a different dealer, what do you think they are going to do differently? This is warranty repair, not a customer willing to pay for hours and hours and hours of diagnostic. Any dealer would treat this the same. No symptoms or codes at the time of visit, they do some checks, look for TSBs, and send you on your way. It's not their fault but that's just how it is structured. I recommend and call on EACH AND EVERY ONE OF YOU to call General Motors or Chevrolet customer service and report your problems. I spoke to two different people at General Motors for about twenty minutes each. They said they would be calling me back or emailing me back to take a look at my video but unfortunately that has not happened yet. It is what must be done if any of us are to wish for a positive outcome and not having to worry about being stranded in the distant future.
This happened to me once, last week, also with my recently purchased "used" 2019 GMC Yukon. Except I couldn't drive it, either. In addition to the power steering not working, my transmission would not shift into drive or reverse. Also, my tachometer was dead even though the engine was running, and so was the oil pressure gauge and coolant temperature gauge as well. All were reading nothing with the exception of battery voltage and the fuel gauge, even though the engine was started. I also noticed that my automatic headlights were not turning on, and the heated seats did not work. The last warning light on my dash was the amber/yellow stabilitrac light towards the very bottom of the analog speedometer gauge. After power cycling a handful of times and running out of options, I had to call GM Roadside Assistance to have it towed. But, the tow truck took so long to arrive, that by the time the tow truck arrived, everything was back to normal. It went in to the dealership and they found nothing wrong since there were no codes. They performed the TSB that relates to a partial list of my problems, but said they found nothing wrong with any connections, so I highly doubt that did anything at all. I also had my battery tested at the local auto parts store and they said it checks out, so I'm at a loss. It has only happened once so far but that was in the first 4 weeks of ownership. GM's recommendation is just to have it towed again if it happens again. I asked, what if I'm hundreds of miles away or in a "bad area?" What do I do, if I really need to leave, but I can't? I would have to say that my confidence has been squashed. Will the next ignition cycle be the one that leaves me stranded again? I did catch this event on video, but even the dealership didn't care to see it, because they said that it has to act up while in their hands for them to be able to do any more. That's how it works with warranty repairs and how they are reimbursed by corporate. It's not just GM, I am sure it would be this way anywhere. If there's no problem at the time when it is not in the shop and no active trouble codes, they just send you down the road again. It seems like most of you with the power steering issue are not experiencing the additional issues that I am. Anyone else?
How is the lane keep warning supposed to work? I have never been audibly notified about leaving my lane. I have tested it. If a lane is detected, I will get the green icon on my dash. If I start to deviate, the icon will turn amber/orange, and the steering will gently try to steer me back in my lane, which is definitely noticeable if I take my hands off of the steering wheel. If I cross the lane markings, the icon will disappear. Not once have I ever been audibly alerted. Is this right? Watching the Chevrolet Tahoe Police Pursuit Vehicle demonstration, there is definitely an audible alert present. By the way, I do have my alert set to audible rather than seat vibration.
Having that 80 amps in my heads, I went back to my local AutoZone to have everything re-tested. The employee tested my battery while the vehicle was off, and it passed. Then I went to start it, and his reader said "battery voltage too low to complete test." He thought that was really weird, but then when re-checked, the alternator tested fine. He also re-checked the battery again after shutting the vehicle off, and it once again passed. I asked him if there was any way to get a readout of the amperage, he claims there wasn't a way. Any suggestion on how to go about testing? Will one of those cheap analog load testers from Harbor Freight help me? I do have an ELM327 OBDII bluetooth scanner. Battery voltage is 14.8 volts while running. There are also no current, pending, or history fault codes. How was my dealer able to find codes in history? They claimed there was no way to clear them. It must just be that the super inexpensive ELM327 module isn't as intuitive as the dealership's multi-thousand dollar diagnostic equipment?
Everything is tight in the region of the battery. Of course I could not get it to exhibit the symptom again on film. I'm not sure what the battery was tested for but whatever it was, it passed. It looked to me like a digital load tester of some sort. Checked amps while not running, starting, and running. I would have thought the dealer checked this while it was in for two and a half days as well. Of course, out of that two and a half day period they probably only looked at it for 30 minutes. I had not mentioned the symptom about the unusual starter scenario when it went in. I'm reluctant to take it back in because once again, I'll be out of my Yukon again for them not to be able to duplicate the symptom while it is in their hands. The truck still started but the start procedure didn't sound normal as it normally does. A video would speak one thousand words.
Something else I noticed today while running errands was a strange start. The truck was fully warm after running errands, and I had made another brief stop for about 15 minutes. Came back in and started, and it didn't just fire up. It's difficult to describe but it was almost as if the starter was cutting out. The cranking time was definitely not extended. After this I immediately drove to the nearest O'Reilly Auto parts to have the battery tested. While the battery was connected to their tester, I fired it up, and it did the exact same thing. The O'Reilly staff member said they heard it clear as day, but did say that the battery, alternator, and starter all checked out. They did feel my voltage was somewhat high though, they said it was almost 15 volts which is higher than what they usually see. Any thoughts? I know there was a TSB for 2015-2020 models about extended crank times, but I feel that this is different, as I did not experience any extended cranking times where the starter is continually running without firing up.
My wife and I had this discussion this morning, after remote starting the truck for maybe 5-10 minutes with today's ~5 degree Fahrenheit temperature. The seats were somewhat warm, but not really hot. We both believe that the remote start automatic seat heaters are set to the lowest setting, since there are 3 settings to choose from normally when setting the seat heaters manually. They work but definitely aren't set to the highest setting when using remote start. I suppose this makes sense and definitely does help them to warm up faster than usual. There is also a setting for the cooled seats to activate with remote start if you have leather seats. This coming spring and summer we will test that I am sure! Pretty nice, and comfortable! This is pure luxury my friends.
Reviving an old topic...... I have my auto fan speed set to "low" in the settings and it still functions. There is a little bit of a difference between low, medium, and high, so set it to what you wish. I have always been under the impression that a lower air velocity, blowing heat for a longer period of time, gives a more comfortable and even temperature overall. If it isn't blowing at all then obviously something was wrong.
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