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    2019 Yukon SLT

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BlaineBug's Achievements


Enthusiast (6/11)



  1. Sounds like fine progress to me! "Jeder nach seinen Fähigkeiten, jedem nach seinen Bedürfnissen!"
  2. Could be true but it sounds like a bogus claim, maybe they're just regurgitating what some TSB says. To actually test the resistance of the battery cables they would have to disconnect them all from anything they are attached to, and this includes all of the grounds and main power connections as well. Are they really doing this? And their suggestion is to replace every single battery cable? What are the resistance ratings they are attributing? PS, have you checked your passenger front frame grounding location behind the wheel well/wheel liner?
  3. I haven't towed anything and never do but I can confirm that after a 1,200 mile journey from the north to the south with ambient temperatures ranging from 20' degrees to 75' degrees that I haven't noticed the transmission temperature rise above 149' while having the new revised transmission thermostat installed. The only place I haven't taken notice was descending the mountains of Tennessee, where they have runaway ramps in place. Going home we'll be driving the opposite way going up so hopefully I'll remember to keep a watchful eye on the temp for s&g's. With the Original transmission thermostat the transmission temperature would likely be around 190' by comparison.
  4. Regardless my camera install has worked flawless now for almost 2 weeks, both with ignition only power and constant power for parking monitoring. I'm satisfied and have a 1,100 mile road trip coming up in just a few days which is great timing for a dash camera.
  5. I haven't seen taps like that before other than for electrical diagnostics such as backprobing connectors. That doesn't seem like a "permanent" solution in my mind. If it works, it works. I just prefer soldering 99% of the time. They also have those watertight shrink wrap wire connectors that have solder in them that only requires a heat gun to melt. I'd also rate that as acceptable although I have not used one personally. I also understand that mechanics in a shop will never be as precise or a-n-a-l as I am with my own vehicle, as soldering definitely adds minutes to any job.
  6. The part I received had the new part number on it. The techline bulletin also states that there is a new part number. I believe this information about the part number not changing is false to be honest.
  7. Not ALL of the new transmission thermostat housings have the stamp on the outside of the aluminum which complicates things further.
  8. Same, I have never had any success with 2 or 4 stroke residential grade leaf blowers or weed wackers, and never wanted to pay commercial grade pricing! I went electric on these. The Harbor Freight weed wacker only uses a half battery but I had to buy 3 batteries for my Milwaukee leaf blower, and that's not for actually blowing leaves, that's just for grass clippings! Residential only, no commercial work, just my home. I do have to agree with you though considering that you live in Texas, you will certainly absolutely encounter little issue with a battery powered snow blower!
  9. With the 11" of snow we got today there's no way any electric snow blower would have been able to run for 3 hours. The stupid a-holes who do product reviews for the electric snow blowers try to spin having to stop work to recharge batteries as some sort of joyous occasion. My arse it is!
  10. The same "professional sources" that have lied to us about EVERYTHING certainly aren't telling us the truth about fossil fuels. They also claim we have a "climate crises" that requires all individuals to give up freedoms, property rights, while the elite still continue to purchase ocean front homes. The same "professional sources" have flip-flopped more times than one can count and remember in regards to global warming/climate change/death rate statistics and have manipulated data for quite possibly centuries. All whilst ignoring the fact that we're actually headed for global cooling and a subsequent mini-ice age as sorts. Keep drinking their kool-aide and you're bound to end up like the followers of Jim Jones.
  11. I can't see why it would be a problem, especially if your backlighting needs are solely for those 6 switches! For added protection throw in a fuse in-between the aftermarket switch backlights and the dimmable ambient lighting circuit like I did. Something like a 2 or 3 amp fuse should be sufficient for such a low draw, and keeps your factory lighting circuit protected from this external (auxiliary?) light source so you aren't solely relying upon the factory fuse (which in my vehicle is in the driver side dash fuse panel.) I do have to say that your brand new truck looks like a mess! I'd be scared to tear it down like that. I always have issues with broken tabs and clips no matter how careful I am! It's always a frustrating nightmare with plastics for me.
  12. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/155775-2014-rap-retained-accessory-power/ Here's the power feeds you are referring to. Pretty neat they are still included, but from what I read, if you want to do it "right" the actual plug that fits this particular unused slot may be difficult to source.
  13. Apologies in advance for reviving an old thread - but is there any concern with tapping into the ambient mood lighting? I bought some LED strip lights, installed them, tapped into the mood lighting +12 volts under the passenger front footwell and added an in-line 5 amp fuse as well. Seems to be working as intended. The lights don't draw much power, obviously less than 5 amps as that's the smallest fuse I had on hand. I did not use any relays. These lights originally come with a cigarette plug that I chopped off. The LED control box has a 12 volt input so there aren't any transformers in the cigarette plug that one would need to keep. The wires in the wire harness for these LEDs are so insanely tiny there can't be any way the amperage is remotely concerning, my opinion of course. Installed in a 2019 Yukon. Tapped right into the ambient mood lighting harness +12 volt wire directly below the glove box. Lights turn on and stay on when it's dark (which is determined by the light sensor and NOT controlled by the headlight switch) when the doors are opened or the vehicle is running. Which is what you'd want as there's not much of a reason to have them on in the daytime.
  14. I know what you're talking about. In the driver side footwell the black box has an extra unused plug slot that has the ground, constant power, and switched power feeds you are describing. I read in another thread about that yesterday morning. You can either attempt to locate the plug or some users used teeny tiny spade connectors are the pins are tiny. I didn't go that route. For the dash camera's switched power I used a fuse tap on the RPO power fuse in the driver's side dash fuse box. And for the camera's constant power I used a spade terminal plugging directly into the constant voltage feed beside the large fuse that can be moved over for the interior accessory outlets. I of course added an in-line fuse for this circuit as well so everything is fuse protected. Works so far, haven't driven anywhere with it yet except around the block. This should give the camera the ability to record in parking mode as well with the +12 volt constant power feed.
  15. I don't find there to be any problem with Purolator filters as I believe their manufacture is Wix (or it was.) With all of the "bad press" Fram received a decade or more ago with cardboard drainback vales and also disintegrating and destroying some select Diesel motors I'll never use one. I vowed not to use Fram oil filters since I've started driving. Air filters, maybe, but I haven't yet either.
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