EightTrackHits

I got the intake manifold back on tonight and made it through the first torque pass when I noticed that the fuel line was not routed correctly. I tried to think of any shortcut possible to keep from taking the intake back off, but in the end the best thing to do was just to take it back off and slip the line in properly. It’s on and torqued down now. The pic shows the improper routing of the line. That’s all for tonight.

I soaked the lifters, pushrods, and rockers. Got all that stuff and the heads installed last night to include valve covers. I am quite pleased at how easy this thing is to work on, but it’s not back on the road yet. I may get it finished today or tomorrow.

The project I’m doing would possibly clear up your issuers with the lifter and coolant. Check out the thread: I will be in this for around $1300 by the time I’m done. You have about seventy thousand more miles than I do though…

I did get the heads from Cylinder Heads International. I did not want to go back with 706s due to the TSB and the possibility of getting Castech heads from CHI. So, they were kind enough to sell me some 802s. I'll get a photo up soon. On the subject of the TSB, I think my heads may have been affected in some manner. There was a lot of oil on some of my head bolts, but no evidence of coolant. Also have a little mission creep going on. I mixed up my push rods so I went ahead and got new lifters, rockers and pushrods along with the gaskets, head bolts, and other stuff. The engine had a little valvetrain noise anyway, so maybe that will clear up some. I intend to soak the lifters overnight in conventional Pennzoil 5W30. So, barring any contingencies, all of my parts are in and I may be able to start the truck Sunday if I can carve out enough time to work on it this weekend. To the best of my knowledge - with the exception of soaking lifters - the prep work is all done, surfaces cleaned, good to go. I am also only 500 miles out from my last oil change. But, I don't dare not change the oil after opening the block. I intend to run it 500 to 700 miles on conventional Pennzoil 5W30 and then change back to synthetic. I don't think I'm going to change the filter during this mini break in period as it doesn't have much time on it. It may take me a month to put 500 miles on this thing. Thoughts on the oil change strategy or lifter soaking?

Had a few days down time waiting on parts. Taking advantage of my time off today to do some prep work. Cleaning out threads on the block for the new head bolts, removing old gasket material etc. I found a video of a gentleman that cut longitudinal grooves in old head bolts in order to chase threads. I did that and it worked well. I vacuumed out the holes, cleaned them with a rifle brush and paper towel, then chased them. Also made sure that the old head bolt bottomed out. Going to Napa in a bit to look for something to clean old gasket material from the block. I’m very concerned with where the debris will go: I’ll just do my best to cover holes.

Do any of you guys know anything about Cylinder Heads International near Dallas?

I rounded off a nut on a flange, afterwards I soaked it in PB blaster and borrowed a Snapon 6 point impact socket. The nut was so deformed that I had to lightly hammer the socket on, but it took it off and the other five were no problem. No problem with the exhaust manifold bolts going into the heads. If one of them were to break, I would likely try to remove the manifold and weld a nut onto what’s left of the fastener going into the head on the bench. That’s worked pretty well for removing broke fasteners before. There are a couple things I’d do differently, I took my exhaust manifolds all the way off, I will just move them out of the way next time as coolant got into the exhaust when I pulled the head. Also I will drain the block more completely next time, I understand there is a plug.

Heads are off. They are the 706 Castech heads, but no evidence of the crack described in the TSB. Below is a pic of the cylinder near the leak; it is the cleanest one. There was no sludge in the heads or elsewhere, so I think I caught this early. I’m considering getting a different set of heads due to the TSB, but I may have these inspected and may keep them. Do any of you know of an instance where the castech heads were deemed good and retained?

Results of the compression check are 1 160, 2 165, 165, 4 165, 5 175, 6 160, 7 175, 8 160. No gross differences on a cold compression check. Left side rockers are darker than the right, but I read that this is not necessarily a bad indication. Below is the right side. I’ll attach the left in a different post.

The carbon in my intake looks excessive to me.

Got the intake and left exhaust manifold off at the heads. Pretty dirty under the intake. Left exhaust clamp is pretty tight. Only one fastener came off, but I think I can get the head off without having the manifold all the way off. Considering re-torquing the head and doing a compression check. Thoughts? May not have an update tomorrow as I have a meeting after work.

Thanks! I'm going to look that area over good with an inspection mirror once I have the intake off. On another note, I went back outside and was able to remove the alternator bracket without removing the power steering pully. Will be back at it tomorrow after work.

Thanks Guys, I worked for about 45 minutes on it tonight and got as far as the alternator bracket. Mine looks to be one continuous piece that also has fasteners behind the power steering pump pully. Not much progress but it is in the garage and the job is started. So, off to borrow a pulley puller tomorrow. I'll keep an eye out for a leak on the on the rear crossover tube as I move forward. Below is the video I'm using as a guide. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2U3JlOU5ER4 Thanks again

I recently bought a well kept 2005 Silverado with a 5.3 and 187000 miles on it. All of the maintenance records were present. I have a coolant leak that I've been having a hard time nailing down. It has leaked from a couple of different spots. The first was at the y pipe on the passengers side. This was before I had it and was replaced. But it did leak from hose clamps some since I've had it. The second was a coolant smell that I did not know where it was coming from. The leak got worse over time and coolant was visible under the truck. I put it on stands and did an inspection, the picture is the area on the drivers side between the head and block. I have 706 heads, but do not know if they are castech. My plan it to pull the heads and check to see if they are castech, inspect the cylinder walls, have a machine shop inspect/repair the heads, look for evidence of coolant in the oil (perhaps send off a sample). If everything is repairable and there is no evidence of coolant in the oil, I will replace head gaskets (both), reinstall the heads, and go from there. I'm not convinced that this is the only coolant leak. I recently took a 300 mile trip towing a trailer and my temp gauge was reading slightly low. If anyone has replaced head gaskets without pulling the engine or if anyone has anything to add, please chime in. This will take me a while as I am slow with this sort of thing, but I will follow up with the posts until I'm done one way or the other. Thanks!